so that's a new relay?
is it exactly the same as the original?
No it's the original relays. All I did last time was fixed the dry joints put it back together and it's been working since last december. I think I did clean that contact with some sand paper then also.
This time I am going to order new relays though since I seen it was stuck. I actually pulled the relay apart when I removed the back.
Trying to decide If I want to go ahead and replace those caps.
Nichicon says the PR is replaced with PS. Pr is a standard for switching with a impedance of .053 with 1100 ripple. PS is a low impedance for switching .058 with a 1600 ripple. Would the FM's be better for the PR? I see one FM says general and one FM says low impedance which seems odd. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...6hqa%252bt0%3d
Well I save a buck buying from newark and closer so would get it sooner but would have to use a FC vs PS(PR replacement) and find a replacement for the KL. Mouser has them so will probably just order from there.
PS and PW will both do fine, as will Panasonic FC. In fact, I think Panny FC is rated for automotive applications, so they'll be okay with all the heat. Not that FR or FM are any worse, but they are getting close to ultra-low ESR and have aqueous electrolyte, IIRC. Meanwhile, PW, PS, and FC have the older non-aquous electrolyte that's proven to last over the years in harsh conditions.
The newark PW sale I was just letting you guys know about since yall have helped me a bunch. I figured since some of you do this for a living you could stock up cheap.
Sorry I meant PR not FR. I don't know this stuff like you guys and I get confused with all the series. lol Will probably just order from mouser since they have PS and kl in stock and the PS closer on impedance. Shame the 2 surge brand caps don't have any info on type.
I had a lot of trouble with the WiFi connection from my router inside of the house into a ( new ) metal garage I had to run a 150 ft cat6 patch cord so the WIFI connection would be strong enough for the WiFi connection on the garage door opener would work correctly ( my son has a work out area in the garage as well and he was having to put his phone near the door to be able to stream music ) ( so I was going to eventually put WiFi out there anyway )
This garage door opener WiFi is very touchy if you lose the power it does not remember the password for the router which is weird or...
OK. I got the rocker switch figured out thanks to the good advice on this forum.
Now I need to figure out the correct wire to go to the switch from the broiler element and from the oven element.
This is a Whirlpool RDE3340 electric range.
The common wire on the switch appears to have a high temperature insulating material. I am guessing that both the wire to the broiler and the wire to the oven elements also need relatively high temperature insulation. What do I need to look for? The broiler is rated at about 2400 watts.
Board as written in description was stuck at VGA LED. common Problem wit these type of bords.... tried all the "standard stuff" like resettin... reseatin.... found out the LED Controller MCU1 = IT8295FN-56A geting burning hot under the last PCI Slot.. now i desoldered it cause there were only 18 ohms at the caps arround.... another aorus x470 in working condition with similar part and nearly same layout had arround 280 ohms...
my question is: why doesnt the board start know without this chip.... worked myself through the boardview but i can´t understand...
There is a motherboard Gigabyte H610M S2H V2 (DDR5), I can't find boardview
Help to identify the element, marking on the element - C31PH. It stands next to the USB 3.0 and it looks like it is ESD Protect chip. We need a datasheet to this element. Maybe someone has already identified such an element. Help please.
Hi all,
I’m trying to recover a Lenovo Yoga Slim 7-14ARE05 with board DA0LS3MBAF0 Rev:F. I’ve run into an unusual issue where USB-C PD is stuck at 4.7–5V and the system won’t boot (keyboard lights flash briefly, then nothing).
🔥 The Problem Started After Suspected ESD/PD Fault
I experienced a power issue or ESD event through a USB-C charger
After that, the NX20P5090 power switch was visibly burned and was replaced
Now the PD controller always negotiates 5V @ 2A, even with known-good chargers
🧠 What I’ve Done So Far
Flashed...
Comment