Suitable replacment for this big fella?

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • c_hegge
    Badcaps Legend
    • Sep 2009
    • 5219
    • Australia

    #1

    Suitable replacment for this big fella?

    This cap is on an AC electric motor which won't usually start. You can hear it trying to run, but it just won't turn. I have 3 questions:

    1. Is it likely that the pictured part is the problem?
    2. If it is likely to be the problem, what would be a good replacment for it (Preferably from RS components, since I get free freight with them)?
    3. Will it explode in fire?
    Attached Files
    I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!

    No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards

    Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium

    Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro
  • Toasty
    Badcaps Legend
    • Jul 2007
    • 4171

    #2
    Re: Suitable replacment for this big fella?

    - Check if it has a start/run relay - may be stuck in run position or burned out.
    - If no relay, perhaps a centrifugal mechanism that opens the switch. Look for 2 hinged plates with some springs on one of the ends of the rotor.
    - Could be the cap.
    - If this uses a contactor (heavy duty, multi-pole relay) to start, then see if it uses heaters and check them for open.

    Can you turn the motor by hand to be sure the bearings aren't dry/seized.

    Replace with close to the same uF rating and at least match the voltage. An air conditioning or electrical supply house would probably have them in stock.

    Good Hunting!
    Toast
    Last edited by Toasty; 07-25-2010, 03:14 AM.
    veritas odium parit

    Comment

    • Toasty
      Badcaps Legend
      • Jul 2007
      • 4171

      #3
      Re: Suitable replacment for this big fella?

      See these for some examples:

      http://www.tpub.com/content/construc.../14259_294.htm
      http://www.tpub.com/content/construc.../14259_295.htm
      veritas odium parit

      Comment

      • c_hegge
        Badcaps Legend
        • Sep 2009
        • 5219
        • Australia

        #4
        Re: Suitable replacment for this big fella?

        I can't seem to find the relay anywhere. There are actually two caps. I'm guessing one's the start cap and the other's the run cap. I already found a similar replacment for the other one from RS. The motor can be turned, so the bearings shouldn't be a problem.

        Maybe I should also add that the bahavior can be a bit random. 90% of the time it doesn't spin at all. It tries for about 30 secs before the circuit breaker on it trips out. 5% of the time it turns slowly for about 30 secs before it trips the breaker and the other 5% it works fine. It's been getting progressively worse since it first started happening.

        In case it helps, here's a pic of the other cap.

        EDIT: What actually is the capacitance on the first cap? 108uF or 130uF? Or does that mean that it could be anywhere in that range? (Assuming MFD=uF)
        Attached Files
        Last edited by c_hegge; 07-25-2010, 04:17 AM.
        I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!

        No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards

        Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium

        Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro

        Comment

        • PlainBill
          Badcaps Legend
          • Feb 2009
          • 7034
          • USA

          #5
          Re: Suitable replacment for this big fella?

          The intermittent characteristic sounds like the switch or a bad connection, not the cap. That cap is rated for 108 - 130 uF. This guy has a method for measuring the capacitance under load using a light bulb and a DMM. You'll have to extrapolate a bit, but he has the formula to use.

          PlainBill
          For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

          Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

          Comment

          • Toasty
            Badcaps Legend
            • Jul 2007
            • 4171

            #6
            Re: Suitable replacment for this big fella?

            Second (white) cap is the start cap. First (black) is the run and is as you suspected, ranges from 108 to 130 uF.

            With 2 caps now showing, you're looking at the figure 14-27 in those first links. A cap-start, cap-run type of motor.

            You say it turns slowly... how slow?

            Can I see a pic of the whole motor, motor rating plate, and a view of the wiring between both caps and the motor?

            Not finding an external relay does indicate the possibility this uses the centrifugal switch type for start/run.

            Toast
            veritas odium parit

            Comment

            • PlainBill
              Badcaps Legend
              • Feb 2009
              • 7034
              • USA

              #7
              Re: Suitable replacment for this big fella?

              Originally posted by Toasty
              Second (white) cap is the start cap. First (black) is the run and is as you suspected, ranges from 108 to 130 uF.

              With 2 caps now showing, you're looking at the figure 14-27 in those first links. A cap-start, cap-run type of motor.

              You say it turns slowly... how slow?

              Can I see a pic of the whole motor, motor rating plate, and a view of the wiring between both caps and the motor?

              Not finding an external relay does indicate the possibility this uses the centrifugal switch type for start/run.

              Toast
              I don't know how they do it in Australia, but a centrifugal switch is the standard arrangement for small electric motors here in the US. By the way, Toasty, you've got it backwards. The smaller value, higher voltage cap is the run capacitor. The black cap is the start cap.

              PlainBill
              For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

              Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

              Comment

              • Toasty
                Badcaps Legend
                • Jul 2007
                • 4171

                #8
                Re: Suitable replacment for this big fella?

                Yup, I certainly did. Thanks!

                Start high, run low.

                Only been 12 years since I had to fix one of these in a window AC unit.
                veritas odium parit

                Comment

                • PlainBill
                  Badcaps Legend
                  • Feb 2009
                  • 7034
                  • USA

                  #9
                  Re: Suitable replacment for this big fella?

                  Originally posted by Toasty
                  Yup, I certainly did. Thanks!

                  Start high, run low.

                  Only been 12 years since I had to fix one of these in a window AC unit.
                  Three years for me, in a pool pump, in August.

                  PlainBill
                  For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

                  Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

                  Comment

                  • c_hegge
                    Badcaps Legend
                    • Sep 2009
                    • 5219
                    • Australia

                    #10
                    Re: Suitable replacment for this big fella?

                    This one is from an air compressor. It's a bit of a birds nest of wires in there. I'll get a pic soon.
                    I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!

                    No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards

                    Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium

                    Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro

                    Comment

                    • c_hegge
                      Badcaps Legend
                      • Sep 2009
                      • 5219
                      • Australia

                      #11
                      Re: Suitable replacment for this big fella?

                      Here are some pictures. I pulled the back off the motor to see the switch. I can't find any evidence that it's stuck. It seems to move freely.
                      Attached Files
                      Last edited by c_hegge; 07-25-2010, 06:41 PM. Reason: Add an extra attachment
                      I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!

                      No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards

                      Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium

                      Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro

                      Comment

                      • Toasty
                        Badcaps Legend
                        • Jul 2007
                        • 4171

                        #12
                        Re: Suitable replacment for this big fella?

                        Is the centrifugal mechanism free to move also? If the switch moves, but the centrifugal mechanism is stuck, that would explain why it's not coming up to speed. Weight and spring mechanism should move in and out on the shaft.

                        Do you have a DMM that will test capacitance? Disconnect it & make sure it's discharged (measure volts across it) and check it that way. Or, use the guide PlainBill pointed to, then do so. If you are uncomfortable messing about with it that way, then buy the replacement.

                        I tracked the Icar (white) cap to this local distributors page:
                        http://www.commchem.com.au/products/capacitors/

                        They also have the start cap in a matching capacitance.

                        Toast
                        veritas odium parit

                        Comment

                        • c_hegge
                          Badcaps Legend
                          • Sep 2009
                          • 5219
                          • Australia

                          #13
                          Re: Suitable replacment for this big fella?

                          Sorry when I said the switch, I meant the mechanism. all parts of it seem free to move. My DMM doesn't measure capacitance. I found this for the white (run) cap http://australia.rs-online.com/web/s...duct&R=1964703. And this for the black (start) cap http://australia.rs-online.com/web/s...duct&R=0117221. would these be suitable replacments?

                          EDIT: Another option for the run cap :http://australia.rs-online.com/web/s...duct&R=3778813
                          Last edited by c_hegge; 07-26-2010, 01:55 AM.
                          I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!

                          No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards

                          Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium

                          Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro

                          Comment

                          • Toasty
                            Badcaps Legend
                            • Jul 2007
                            • 4171

                            #14
                            Re: Suitable replacment for this big fella?

                            They should be fine.
                            veritas odium parit

                            Comment

                            • PlainBill
                              Badcaps Legend
                              • Feb 2009
                              • 7034
                              • USA

                              #15
                              Re: Suitable replacment for this big fella?

                              I repeat, the symptoms do not match a bad start cap, and certainly not a bad run cap. 'Won't start' problems in single phase electric motors can be traced to only a few causes: Excessive load, open start cap, open or shorted winding, bad start switch or relay. The usual cause of an intermittent problem would be pitted contacts on the centrifugal switch, or a sticky centrifugal switch.

                              PlainBill
                              For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

                              Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

                              Comment

                              • delaware74b
                                Badcaps Veteran
                                • Apr 2009
                                • 628
                                • USA

                                #16
                                Re: Suitable replacment for this big fella?

                                *2 on the centrifugal switch. My company has a customer who owns an 5-hp reduced frame (can't remember the frame size) 1-phase motor on a restaurant exhaust hood fan. About once or twice a year, we go on the roof to pull it and adjust that switch. We figure it gets hung up with all the chinese food grease that blows past it while the fan is running. Symptoms are the breaker trips before the heaters in the starter pop. The first time it happened, it took out the start caps.
                                Stupidity should be a crime, especially for drivers. I have NO patience for them.

                                Comment

                                • c_hegge
                                  Badcaps Legend
                                  • Sep 2009
                                  • 5219
                                  • Australia

                                  #17
                                  Re: Suitable replacment for this big fella?

                                  I've tried polishing the contacts on the switch with sandpaper, as there was a bit of corrosion. It doesn't seem to help. It still tries to spin for 30 secs, but the breaker trips. I did actually get it to spin once, but it was slow and I could hear a lot of arcing going on inside and it tripped the breaker.
                                  I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!

                                  No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards

                                  Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium

                                  Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro

                                  Comment

                                  • Toasty
                                    Badcaps Legend
                                    • Jul 2007
                                    • 4171

                                    #18
                                    Re: Suitable replacment for this big fella?

                                    Find the arcing. Follow your nose...

                                    You hear the noise from inside the motor? Is it with the cap cover off? Is it coming from inside those caps?

                                    Might have to pull that motor apart. Especially if it's the windings. If so, it's toast.
                                    veritas odium parit

                                    Comment

                                    • Krankshaft
                                      Badcaps Legend
                                      • Jan 2007
                                      • 2328
                                      • USA

                                      #19
                                      Re: Suitable replacment for this big fella?

                                      Are you sure the centrifugal switch isn't holding the start contacts apart? When the motor is at rest the contacts should be together connecting the start cap to the start winding.

                                      I had to repair a 50s Rockwell capacitor start motor a few months back after I disassembled it to replace the bearings I accidentally bent the copper ring contact the plastic centrifugal switch disc pressed against to disconnect the motor cap when the motor was at speed.

                                      This caused the start cap to remain disconnected and the motor wouldn't start I just had to bend it back ever so slightly just a few degrees.
                                      Last edited by Krankshaft; 07-27-2010, 02:33 AM.
                                      Elements of the past and the future combining to make something not quite as good as either.

                                      Comment

                                      • c_hegge
                                        Badcaps Legend
                                        • Sep 2009
                                        • 5219
                                        • Australia

                                        #20
                                        Re: Suitable replacment for this big fella?

                                        Originally posted by Toasty
                                        You hear the noise from inside the motor?
                                        Yes, the noise comes from inside the motor, not the caps.
                                        I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!

                                        No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards

                                        Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium

                                        Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro

                                        Comment

                                        Related Topics

                                        Collapse

                                        • juergenb
                                          Nescafe Aeroccino, still fails with new Motor (red flashes only once)
                                          by juergenb
                                          Hi,

                                          i am asking for some Help.
                                          I have one of these Nescafe Aeroccino (Milk Frother) things with a bad motor.
                                          The Motor didn“t start anymore and internet is full of users just swapping the motor for a Mabuchi RF-500TB-12560.
                                          So i got a few of these from Banggood.

                                          I swapped the motor and now i have a new fault condition.

                                          In a working Frother you would press the start button, it will light red and work for a few minutes.
                                          If you press longer it will light blue and just mixup the milk.

                                          With the new Motor it just starts...
                                          03-23-2021, 11:24 AM
                                        • sbt123
                                          charnwood w821 mini wood lathe motor problem
                                          by sbt123
                                          hi there,im having a look at repairing a wood lathe for my dad,(charnwood w821)the problem is when turning up the variable speed control,the motor starts to stop and start by itself,if i continue to turn up the speed it will trip the mcb in the consumer unit,there is also a slight smell of burning from the speed controll box.,Another strange symptom is the lathe can be unplugged from the mains after switching it off and the motor will spin a couple of times by itself,so far ive put a new speed controll potentiometer on and new motor brushes,ive also tested the motor windings and everything looks...
                                          10-27-2024, 03:43 AM
                                        • Per Hansson
                                          Motor run capacitor physical size vs voltage rating & measurements?
                                          by Per Hansson
                                          (TL;DR skip the first paragraph)
                                          I encountered my first dead motor run capacitor at a customer this week.
                                          For some fields I guess it is a very common occurrence but the usual way for industrial machines here is to use 3-phase motors.
                                          (Unless a servo motor makes more sense that is).
                                          But for some reason this 3-phase machine uses a 1-phase motor for its liquid coolant pump.
                                          The pump would run but sometimes trip the 10A breaker.
                                          I monitored it starting and stopping for over an hour until it finally stopped in a specific spot between its windings:
                                          Then it could...
                                          09-20-2020, 06:32 AM
                                        • mikey5791
                                          Help identify this motor
                                          by mikey5791
                                          Hi all forum members,
                                          Found this unknown motor discarded in a junk yard and took home for learning experience. By the look of it, I suspect it is taken out from a type of air blower probably running on ac power. I used digital multimeter on ohm/resistance scale and it doesn't read anything on those 2 black wires. So, this motor is not shorted and should be good to run.

                                          Correct me if i am wrong on the initial test.
                                          Can anyone kindly advice on how to test run this motor based on visible external two black wires. Fyi, i don't see any marking on the motor body nor smell anything...
                                          11-24-2023, 07:54 PM
                                        • cjard
                                          A motor controller is a power supply, right?
                                          by cjard
                                          Hoping someone here will be able to provide a few pointers with this. I've got a motor controller board for a device that moves a caravan. A DC motor on each wheel is supplied with 12v DC or -12V DC depending on whether the remote control is pushed in "forward" or "backward" mode. The control is arranged by having 2 relays per motor that, at rest, are all connected to the negative.. If the motor is to go forwards, then relay 1 activates meaning the motor sees "positive negative" on its terminals 1 and 2. If the motor is to go backwards then relay 2 activates meaning...
                                          10-14-2020, 01:24 PM
                                        • Loading...
                                        • No more items.
                                        Working...