Re: Adding a bigger panel for a new house.
Is that a reason to tape the outlets / switches / etc? What's the general consensus here?
We should start a poll! Tape the receptacles / switches or waste of tape? What do you guys think?
Also, I remember the first time I played with a 3-way switch. Normally, are the hots on different breakers? This one had one hot on one breaker, one hot on another breaker. It was my buddy's house. Our friend who he paid to fix it (a proclaimed master electrician) didn't have a clue what he was doing and after he rewired it (he was hired to replace the old wire with the new romex style), they flipped the breaker and there was smoke, but it didn't trip, which was good. Anyway, they called me. My buddy who owned the house, he said they flipped the breaker because of the smoke. I said let's see what we got up here. I'm not sure if there ever was any smoke or not. I'm not sure how something could smoke like that and not trip a breaker. I ended up getting it all hooked up correctly but while I was working on it, one of the wires, the red one I think, was live. I grabbed that and it knocked me off the chair! The guys came running out because of all the swearing I was doing but man, that 120 really wakes you up! You don't really remember how much until you touch it. But that's got a nice tickle to it, I'll say that much!
I've heard stories of old people who used to test 120 with their fingers. Not sure if it's true or not, but that'd be insane if it was, wouldn't it?
Adding a bigger panel for a new house.
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Re: Adding a bigger panel for a new house.
like in the foto.
power exits the panel , passes through all the sockets in series, then goes back to the same breaker.
it means you have less risk of arcing or fire from a loose wire, and you can draw more current from a socket than the individual wire is rated at. (not that you really should - but it can happen)Leave a comment:
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Re: Adding a bigger panel for a new house.
When you connect a coax plug on, say an antenna on an airplane, you are supposed to tape it to keep moisture out and to keep it from unscrewing, then put tie chord around the tape to keep it in place. Regulations, you know.Leave a comment:
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Re: Adding a bigger panel for a new house.
Yes, these:
They are the standard way of joining wires in a junction box in the US.
Note: these images don't show tape being used with them. Unfortunately many "professional" electricians (especially "tract" builders) don't use the tape (can't waste a few seconds for safety's sake), but I always make a point of using tape in addition to the nuts to ensure they don't come loose, I also like to tape the screws/exposed wires on outlets/fixtures (after the connection has been made of course), especially with metal boxes, to prevent possible shorts.
Like this:
and this:
Thanks!Leave a comment:
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Re: Adding a bigger panel for a new house.
like in the foto.
power exits the panel , passes through all the sockets in series, then goes back to the same breaker.
it means you have less risk of arcing or fire from a loose wire, and you can draw more current from a socket than the individual wire is rated at. (not that you really should - but it can happen)Leave a comment:
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Re: Adding a bigger panel for a new house.
Twist nuts are those coloured domes i see them using in China electronics for joining wires ? definitely not used by electricians over here.
Yes, what you call the panel we call the consumer unit.
The electric is done in rings, lights upstairs is one, lights downstairs is another. There was one single ring main for all my sockets (excluding cooker). I now have 3 ring mains for my sockets since i made downstairs open plan. One for the sockets in my lounge and bedroom, one for my computer room and the original ring that's now smaller that covers the rest of the house.
A spur is a wire that is taken from a socket on the ring if another socket is required somewhere.Leave a comment:
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Re: Adding a bigger panel for a new house.
So, just so I have this right, you guys only go from the outlet / switch / load / whatever to another outlet / switch / load / whatever from the breaker back to the breaker? It's always one continuous wire from the breaker to whatever load, it never splits or anything, and then if you need more, you always run off another device? You never just splice into a wire, throw up a junction box and go from there?Leave a comment:
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Re: Adding a bigger panel for a new house.
Wirenuts in UK?
http://www.idealindustries.co.uk/ind...rticleid=10819
http://www.idealindustries.co.uk/ind...pk=18070&fk=57Last edited by budm; 06-20-2016, 05:18 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Adding a bigger panel for a new house.
They are the standard way of joining wires in a junction box in the US.
Note: these images don't show tape being used with them. Unfortunately many "professional" electricians (especially "tract" builders) don't use the tape (can't waste a few seconds for safety's sake), but I always make a point of using tape in addition to the nuts to ensure they don't come loose, I also like to tape the screws/exposed wires on outlets/fixtures (after the connection has been made of course), especially with metal boxes, to prevent possible shorts.
Like this:
and this:
Last edited by dmill89; 06-20-2016, 05:01 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Adding a bigger panel for a new house.
Twist nuts are those coloured domes i see them using in China electronics for joining wires ? definitely not used by electricians over here.
Yes, what you call the panel we call the consumer unit.
The electric is done in rings, lights upstairs is one, lights downstairs is another. There was one single ring main for all my sockets (excluding cooker). I now have 3 ring mains for my sockets since i made downstairs open plan. One for the sockets in my lounge and bedroom, one for my computer room and the original ring that's now smaller that covers the rest of the house.
A spur is a wire that is taken from a socket on the ring if another socket is required somewhere.Leave a comment:
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Re: Adding a bigger panel for a new house.
Consumer unit is the thing with the breakers/fuses in.
A new socket would be added in the ring or a spur taken from a socket. I personally wouldn't chop into the ring main to add an extra spur using twist nut and tape. That's just me though, I'm no electrician, I'm just going on what I've been told is best practice.
Normally, if I can, I'll just jump from one outlet / light switch to the next, within reason. I try to figure out how much load each outlet will have at one time and not go over a limit. But there's times when there's no outlets to jump off of. When you want to run a new wire and yeah, you could open up walls or dig up ground or just splice into a wire. That's where wire nuts come in handy here.Leave a comment:
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Re: Adding a bigger panel for a new house.
that would be illegal in the u.k. anyway.
no twists, no tape, and no inline splices or couplers.
if you break the ring, you need to wire from each nearby original socket to the new one with a single length of cable to re-create the ring.
.Leave a comment:
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Re: Adding a bigger panel for a new house.
So are do you guys combine two or more wires? What do you mean by a new consumer unit?
I can't really think or two many ways besides wire nuts / tape / solder to combine wires together...I guess you could use screw down terminals in some sort of panel. That'd work I guess. Is that what you guys have? Some sort of panel where you screw down the various wires that you want to connect together (ie, you want to splice into a line and run a new outlet from it but there's no outlets or switches near by to run off of...here, we'd just cut the wire, use maybe a junction box and some wire nuts / tape). Basically, something like this:
https://www.teksupply.com/wcsstore/E...ge/lj2100a.jpg
Keep in mind, the tops been removed so you can see inside.
A new socket would be added in the ring or a spur taken from a socket. I personally wouldn't chop into the ring main to add an extra spur using twist nut and tape. That's just me though, I'm no electrician, I'm just going on what I've been told is best practice.Leave a comment:
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Re: Adding a bigger panel for a new house.
If the jacketed portion of existing cables reaches the new panel enclosure, you can still enter that enclosure; you may splice the individual conductors inside to land them on the busses/bkrs. You are allowed to splice within panelboard enclosures provided "box fill" isn't exceeded.
From looking at our box here, it just doesn't seem like there's much to these now. I think the biggest thing would be running the actually big gauge wires to the box. That's something I'd probably need help with, other than that...it looks pretty straightforward. From what I can tell, on my box, the neutral bar is tied into the GND bar. Is that normal and allowed or was someone just being lazy? I can't really see how they could of wired it different with what's coming into this actual box here...Leave a comment:
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Re: Adding a bigger panel for a new house.
you combine wires traditionally with a ceramic terminal block or bakelite junction box.
although now, you can do low current (under 25a) with helacon.Attached FilesLeave a comment:
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Re: Adding a bigger panel for a new house.
when used properly, those wire nuts seem pretty secure. I know I can't physically pull one off that I put on. I can unscrew it, but pulling it off doesn't seem to work. That's before I tape them, I always give them a nice tug, to make sure they're secure. If they're not, I've used the wrong side or twisted the wire inside incorrectly.
Emphasis mine. Wirenuts get a bad rap because many don't "pre twist!"
Never count on the spring to either twist the wires and/or carry current. You must have a good splice before you twist the wirenut on.
I don't care that the instructions were changed several years ago to suggest "no pretwisting required;" this was apparently done to make those "unskilled" feel more "comfortable" installing stuff that didn't understand. I don't mean "Happy Homeowner" here- it refers to those to proud to take any pride in their work...
Remember, soldered splices are still allowed per the NEC, but they also need to be twisted (secure connection established) before soldering.
there's two panels already there. I was hoping the wires would be long enough where I could put the new larger panel in the middle of where the old two are and just hook them up to new breakers
Hint: box fill isn't as much an issue as it appears. I'm talking now about device/junction boxes- usually, if it "seems" too small to work in and you go up a size or two for more room, you're usually OK.
In the typical Siemens/Murray 40/40 panel, such as this one:
you'll have enough room to splice/extend your existing conductors. These also have four pegs on each corner of the panelboard itself; keep the wires on the outside of these and you'll never have them interfere with the bkr positions.
Existing cables/ckts that don't reach can be landed in overhead 4sq boxes; then come out of those with NM-b "whips" into the new panel.Leave a comment:
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Re: Adding a bigger panel for a new house.
Twist nuts and tape sounds nasty.
Over here a qualified electrician is required to install most things, definitely a new consumer unit as they are the only ones that can issue a certificate to show it's been done properly. (I had one fitted a couple of years ago, along with the first fix for 30 down lighters and kitchen sockets).
...
I can't really think or two many ways besides wire nuts / tape / solder to combine wires together...I guess you could use screw down terminals in some sort of panel. That'd work I guess. Is that what you guys have? Some sort of panel where you screw down the various wires that you want to connect together (ie, you want to splice into a line and run a new outlet from it but there's no outlets or switches near by to run off of...here, we'd just cut the wire, use maybe a junction box and some wire nuts / tape). Basically, something like this:
https://www.teksupply.com/wcsstore/E...ge/lj2100a.jpg
Keep in mind, the tops been removed so you can see inside.Leave a comment:
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