Hey all, i was wondering if one of you could help me. I am fixing my microwave and found it has a bad relay on the board. I need the smaller relay in the picture. I cannot find where to order a new one. i will post a picture if someone can help me find a new one. I looked at digitkey but wasnt sure which one i should order. Thanks for the help!
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Relay?
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Re: Relay?
I havent found one but this has all the specs
http://www.devicemart.co.kr/goods/view.php?seq=27675
I see you have been looking for 2-3 years some places say out of stock
special order. Suppose you could contact and ask how much.
or contact hexcell for a distributor.Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740
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Re: Relay?
Originally posted by fxdfireman View PostHey all, i was wondering if one of you could help me. I am fixing my microwave and found it has a bad relay on the board. I need the smaller relay in the picture. I cannot find where to order a new one. i will post a picture if someone can help me find a new one. I looked at digitkey but wasnt sure which one i should order. Thanks for the help!
You will have to have an ordrer of $50.00 USD or more to order from them
http://www.plccenter.com/en-US/Buy/GENERIC/CS1124SH which would be 24 of them unless you find something else to orderLast edited by sam_sam_sam; 04-02-2013, 04:00 PM.
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Re: Relay?
That's a Texcell-Netcom relay , CS series
http://www.texcell-netcom.co.kr/eng/...sp?file_seq=25
Datasheet is here:
Basically the specs are :
CS 11 - 12 SH
① ② ③ ④
① Relay Model CS
② Contact Arrangement 11: 1 Form A (SPST-NO) 1: 1 Form C (SPDT)
③ Coil Voltage 3, 5, 6, 9, 12, 18, 24, 48VDC
④ Contact Capacity & Coil Power
SH:
5A 250VAC/30VDC, Coil Power 450mW (only for 1 Form A)
3A 250VAC/30VDC, Coil Power 450mW (only for 1 Form C)
SGH: 10A 250VAC / 30VDC, Coil Power 450mW (only for 1 Form A)
H: 3A 250VAC/30VDC, Coil Power 200mW (only for 1 Form A)
Q: 8A 250VAC, Coil Power 200mW (only for 1 Form A)
So you can replace with any relay that fits the size ( 18.4 X 10.2 X 15.3 ) and with the pins in the right places (see datasheet pictures) and that's SPST-NO , with coil 24v 450mW ( about 18mA) or around that value, contact rating 5a or better.
See this for example:
Digikey : http://goo.gl/5vW0m
Mouser : http://goo.gl/1su9T
Newark : http://goo.gl/YizAE (further filter to get only spst-no, i didn't filter by that)
A lot of those seem to match the size, but you have to double check where exactly the pins are positioned by checking datasheets for each of those.
Technically, as long as the coil is 24v and 450w and the relay is SPST-NO, where the pins are doesn't really matter that much, you could hack it just by soldering some wires where the pins of the old relay were and just solder the wires to the new relay and isolate the pins with some heatshrink.
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Re: Relay?
By the way, was the old relay has open winding or bad contacts?Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809
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Re: Relay?
Those relays are a standard size, so there are many manufacturers that make suitable substitutes.
Big relay RY07 (left) is the one switching on the magnetron. The smaller relays are for "accessories" like the lamps and fans etc.
I found Tyco T77 series with 24VDC coil, SPST 10A that looks ok:
Digikey PB369-ND $2.28
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Re: Relay?
mariushm!
The one thing I'd add is that the original relay is a safety agency rated/approved part, so you should replace it with a similarly approved part. I don't remember whether the Tyco T77 series is agency approved.PeteS in CA
Power Supplies should be boring: No loud noises, no bright flashes, and no bad smells.
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To kill personal responsibility, initiative or success, punish it by taxing it. To encourage irresponsibility, improvidence, dependence and failure, reward it by subsidizing it.
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Re: Relay?
The T77 is UL (USA and Canada) and VDE certified.
I've seen so many of these small relay (contacts) wear out - in furnaces, dishwashers, stoves etc. especially if the load is inductive. Manufacturers can't put a $0.50 cap across the contacts to stop arcing and add years to product life
It's totally worth a few dollars to change them out.
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Re: Relay?
Originally posted by redwire View PostThe T77 is UL (USA and Canada) and VDE certified.
I've seen so many of these small relay (contacts) wear out - in furnaces, dishwashers, stoves etc. especially if the load is inductive. Manufacturers can't put a $0.50 cap across the contacts to stop arcing and add years to product life
It's totally worth a few dollars to change them out.Muh-soggy-knee
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Re: Relay?
Thanks for all the help, one of the relays has a bad contact you can here it click(verified with a meter) but it don't turn the night light on. There is no output on that relay. I just wasn't sure how to break the numbers down on the relay, and make sure i get a comparable one that is safe. The wife would be mad if it starts on fire after i fix it!
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Re: Relay?
Thanks, redwire. The originals also have CSA (Canada), TUV (Germany, I think), and Semko (Sweden). But UL and VDE should suffice.PeteS in CA
Power Supplies should be boring: No loud noises, no bright flashes, and no bad smells.
****************************
To kill personal responsibility, initiative or success, punish it by taxing it. To encourage irresponsibility, improvidence, dependence and failure, reward it by subsidizing it.
****************************
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Re: Relay?
Originally posted by redwire View PostThe T77 is UL (USA and Canada) and VDE certified.
I've seen so many of these small relay (contacts) wear out - in furnaces, dishwashers, stoves etc. especially if the load is inductive. Manufacturers can't put a $0.50 cap across the contacts to stop arcing and add years to product life
It's totally worth a few dollars to change them out.
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Re: Relay?
Having a 22-33nF X-capacitor across relay/switch contacts acts a bit like a snubber, it suppresses arcs and greatly increases relay/switch life.
Example: My mom's Maytag stove - every so often a heating element goes full blast, even though set to simmer. Found the thermostat contacts would arc and get stuck. Fixed with caps across the contacts, although some safety risk with leakage current available at the element socket ~0.8mA, if cleaning things with element removed and a wet rag. I think it's worse leakage current using a MOV.
I also got tired of replacing motor relays on my furnace control board, so I added a cap and it's been good for years. Same with my lousy dishwasher motor-start relay.
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