Relay?

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  • fxdfireman
    Senior Member
    • Nov 2010
    • 86
    • USA

    #1

    Relay?

    Hey all, i was wondering if one of you could help me. I am fixing my microwave and found it has a bad relay on the board. I need the smaller relay in the picture. I cannot find where to order a new one. i will post a picture if someone can help me find a new one. I looked at digitkey but wasnt sure which one i should order. Thanks for the help!
    Attached Files
  • selldoor
    Slow Learner
    • Dec 2010
    • 7870

    #2
    Re: Relay?

    I havent found one but this has all the specs
    http://www.devicemart.co.kr/goods/view.php?seq=27675

    I see you have been looking for 2-3 years some places say out of stock
    special order. Suppose you could contact and ask how much.
    or contact hexcell for a distributor.
    Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740

    Comment

    • sam_sam_sam
      Badcaps Legend
      • Jul 2011
      • 6030
      • USA

      #3
      Re: Relay?

      Originally posted by fxdfireman
      Hey all, i was wondering if one of you could help me. I am fixing my microwave and found it has a bad relay on the board. I need the smaller relay in the picture. I cannot find where to order a new one. i will post a picture if someone can help me find a new one. I looked at digitkey but wasnt sure which one i should order. Thanks for the help!
      I found this I hope this helps

      You will have to have an ordrer of $50.00 USD or more to order from them


      http://www.plccenter.com/en-US/Buy/GENERIC/CS1124SH which would be 24 of them unless you find something else to order
      Last edited by sam_sam_sam; 04-02-2013, 04:00 PM.

      Comment

      • mariushm
        Badcaps Legend
        • May 2011
        • 3799

        #4
        Re: Relay?

        That's a Texcell-Netcom relay , CS series

        http://www.texcell-netcom.co.kr/eng/...sp?file_seq=25

        Datasheet is here:

        Basically the specs are :

        CS 11 - 12 SH
        ① ② ③ ④
        ① Relay Model CS
        ② Contact Arrangement 11: 1 Form A (SPST-NO) 1: 1 Form C (SPDT)
        ③ Coil Voltage 3, 5, 6, 9, 12, 18, 24, 48VDC
        ④ Contact Capacity & Coil Power
        SH:
        5A 250VAC/30VDC, Coil Power 450mW (only for 1 Form A)
        3A 250VAC/30VDC, Coil Power 450mW (only for 1 Form C)

        SGH: 10A 250VAC / 30VDC, Coil Power 450mW (only for 1 Form A)

        H: 3A 250VAC/30VDC, Coil Power 200mW (only for 1 Form A)

        Q: 8A 250VAC, Coil Power 200mW (only for 1 Form A)

        So you can replace with any relay that fits the size ( 18.4 X 10.2 X 15.3 ) and with the pins in the right places (see datasheet pictures) and that's SPST-NO , with coil 24v 450mW ( about 18mA) or around that value, contact rating 5a or better.

        See this for example:

        Digikey : http://goo.gl/5vW0m

        Mouser : http://goo.gl/1su9T

        Newark : http://goo.gl/YizAE (further filter to get only spst-no, i didn't filter by that)

        A lot of those seem to match the size, but you have to double check where exactly the pins are positioned by checking datasheets for each of those.

        Technically, as long as the coil is 24v and 450w and the relay is SPST-NO, where the pins are doesn't really matter that much, you could hack it just by soldering some wires where the pins of the old relay were and just solder the wires to the new relay and isolate the pins with some heatshrink.

        Comment

        • budm
          Badcaps Legend
          • Feb 2010
          • 40746
          • USA

          #5
          Re: Relay?

          By the way, was the old relay has open winding or bad contacts?
          Never stop learning
          Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

          Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

          Inverter testing using old CFL:
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

          Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
          http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

          TV Factory reset codes listing:
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

          Comment

          • redwire
            Badcaps Legend
            • Dec 2010
            • 3900
            • Canada

            #6
            Re: Relay?

            Those relays are a standard size, so there are many manufacturers that make suitable substitutes.
            Big relay RY07 (left) is the one switching on the magnetron. The smaller relays are for "accessories" like the lamps and fans etc.
            I found Tyco T77 series with 24VDC coil, SPST 10A that looks ok:
            Digikey PB369-ND $2.28

            Comment

            • PeteS in CA
              Badcaps Legend
              • Aug 2005
              • 3578
              • USA, Unsure of Planet

              #7
              Re: Relay?

              mariushm!

              The one thing I'd add is that the original relay is a safety agency rated/approved part, so you should replace it with a similarly approved part. I don't remember whether the Tyco T77 series is agency approved.
              PeteS in CA

              Power Supplies should be boring: No loud noises, no bright flashes, and no bad smells.
              ****************************
              To kill personal responsibility, initiative or success, punish it by taxing it. To encourage irresponsibility, improvidence, dependence and failure, reward it by subsidizing it.
              ****************************

              Comment

              • redwire
                Badcaps Legend
                • Dec 2010
                • 3900
                • Canada

                #8
                Re: Relay?

                The T77 is UL (USA and Canada) and VDE certified.
                I've seen so many of these small relay (contacts) wear out - in furnaces, dishwashers, stoves etc. especially if the load is inductive. Manufacturers can't put a $0.50 cap across the contacts to stop arcing and add years to product life
                It's totally worth a few dollars to change them out.

                Comment

                • ben7
                  Capaholic
                  • Jan 2011
                  • 4059
                  • USA

                  #9
                  Re: Relay?

                  Originally posted by redwire
                  The T77 is UL (USA and Canada) and VDE certified.
                  I've seen so many of these small relay (contacts) wear out - in furnaces, dishwashers, stoves etc. especially if the load is inductive. Manufacturers can't put a $0.50 cap across the contacts to stop arcing and add years to product life
                  It's totally worth a few dollars to change them out.
                  Indeed. We had a microwave at school a few years ago which caught fire. It was a cheapo 'chef-mate' branded one. The reason? Cheapo relay. I measured the contacts and they were at 200 ohms, no wonder why it ignited!
                  Muh-soggy-knee

                  Comment

                  • fxdfireman
                    Senior Member
                    • Nov 2010
                    • 86
                    • USA

                    #10
                    Re: Relay?

                    Thanks for all the help, one of the relays has a bad contact you can here it click(verified with a meter) but it don't turn the night light on. There is no output on that relay. I just wasn't sure how to break the numbers down on the relay, and make sure i get a comparable one that is safe. The wife would be mad if it starts on fire after i fix it!

                    Comment

                    • PeteS in CA
                      Badcaps Legend
                      • Aug 2005
                      • 3578
                      • USA, Unsure of Planet

                      #11
                      Re: Relay?

                      Thanks, redwire. The originals also have CSA (Canada), TUV (Germany, I think), and Semko (Sweden). But UL and VDE should suffice.
                      PeteS in CA

                      Power Supplies should be boring: No loud noises, no bright flashes, and no bad smells.
                      ****************************
                      To kill personal responsibility, initiative or success, punish it by taxing it. To encourage irresponsibility, improvidence, dependence and failure, reward it by subsidizing it.
                      ****************************

                      Comment

                      • JohnnyRC
                        Member
                        • Mar 2013
                        • 14
                        • USA

                        #12
                        Re: Relay?

                        Originally posted by redwire
                        The T77 is UL (USA and Canada) and VDE certified.
                        I've seen so many of these small relay (contacts) wear out - in furnaces, dishwashers, stoves etc. especially if the load is inductive. Manufacturers can't put a $0.50 cap across the contacts to stop arcing and add years to product life
                        It's totally worth a few dollars to change them out.
                        You mean a snubber cap? I've also seen MOV's to help drain inductive spikes. I don't think I've ever seen caps tho...

                        Comment

                        • redwire
                          Badcaps Legend
                          • Dec 2010
                          • 3900
                          • Canada

                          #13
                          Re: Relay?

                          Having a 22-33nF X-capacitor across relay/switch contacts acts a bit like a snubber, it suppresses arcs and greatly increases relay/switch life.

                          Example: My mom's Maytag stove - every so often a heating element goes full blast, even though set to simmer. Found the thermostat contacts would arc and get stuck. Fixed with caps across the contacts, although some safety risk with leakage current available at the element socket ~0.8mA, if cleaning things with element removed and a wet rag. I think it's worse leakage current using a MOV.

                          I also got tired of replacing motor relays on my furnace control board, so I added a cap and it's been good for years. Same with my lousy dishwasher motor-start relay.

                          Comment

                          • ben7
                            Capaholic
                            • Jan 2011
                            • 4059
                            • USA

                            #14
                            Re: Relay?

                            You might want to try a smaller capacitor, maybe like 10nf or so to decrease the leakage current. I wonder how well a tvs diode would work.
                            Muh-soggy-knee

                            Comment

                            • popeye
                              Senior Member
                              • May 2011
                              • 155

                              #15
                              Re: Relay?

                              I hope you know what you are doing and that you have all the nessesary test equipment to test it after you repair it including a microwave leak tester as microwaves are dangerous.

                              popeye

                              Comment

                              • cheapie
                                null
                                • Jul 2010
                                • 849
                                • USA

                                #16
                                Re: Relay?

                                Originally posted by popeye
                                microwave leak tester as microwaves are dangerous
                                How about putting an 802.11b/g AP in the microwave (microwave off, of course) and seeing if you get a signal outside?

                                Comment

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