CAP ID and what to replace?

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  • budm
    Badcaps Legend
    • Feb 2010
    • 40746
    • USA

    #21
    Re: CAP ID and what to replace?

    Sorry to hear that.
    Pin1 of this U703 is tied to Ground which is correct so your reading is right, nothing wrong with that reading.
    Never stop learning
    Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

    Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

    Inverter testing using old CFL:
    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

    Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
    http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

    TV Factory reset codes listing:
    http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

    Comment

    • Mad_Professor
      A Mech Warrior
      • Feb 2011
      • 1587

      #22
      Re: CAP ID and what to replace?

      Originally posted by budm
      Sorry to hear that.
      Pin1 of this U703 is tied to Ground which is correct so your reading is right, nothing wrong with that reading.
      but it also goes to 3.3v pins on the panel connector.

      I'm a bit confused.
      Last edited by Mad_Professor; 01-08-2013, 08:59 PM.

      Comment

      • budm
        Badcaps Legend
        • Feb 2010
        • 40746
        • USA

        #23
        Re: CAP ID and what to replace?

        OK, we now know the followings:
        Pin 1 is Ground (I can see it in your picture in post 10).
        Pin 2 (output pin, middle pin/big tab on top) has 95 Ohms to ground.
        So pin 3 (input pin) what do you have?
        Never stop learning
        Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

        Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

        Inverter testing using old CFL:
        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

        Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
        http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

        TV Factory reset codes listing:
        http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

        Comment

        • Mad_Professor
          A Mech Warrior
          • Feb 2011
          • 1587

          #24
          Re: CAP ID and what to replace?

          pin 3 to ground no reading, goes to c749 which is a 10v 470uf cap also c750, but I don't know where it goes after that.

          Comment

          • Mad_Professor
            A Mech Warrior
            • Feb 2011
            • 1587

            #25
            Re: CAP ID and what to replace?

            I removed the cap c702 just to be sure it wasn't a shorted cap, and this is going to be a very difficult board to recap since I had to break the cap off and heat from both sides with two irons to remove the legs from the holes. No damage to the trace except for breaking the plastic edge of a inductor coil L701 near by.

            I need to be precise on what to replace.

            I went back and decided to to trace the PS PIN to see what components control it.

            I traced PS pin from the main connector on the board to a IC BA9713 or BA9T13 or BA9113, forth digit is not stamp well. I'm looking for a datasheet but I can't find any. On the board it's Q703 and the top right pin might be pin 4 from the marker, it seems to control Q704 *H1A, but I don't know what the pin lay outs are for Q703 and what sends the signal to trigger the PS to full on.

            Pin 1-3 seems to go to the 5vSB pin on the main connector and all the other pins on the left of the marker I don't know what they do at the moment since I haven't gotten that far. Getting a data sheet on Q703 would be helpful so I can figure out what they do and where to go from there.

            if I can't fix it, I will have to buy a new board that's 100$

            Comment

            • Mad_Professor
              A Mech Warrior
              • Feb 2011
              • 1587

              #26
              Re: CAP ID and what to replace?

              I did a full recap of the board, getting 1.1v on ir/menu panel needs to be 3.3v but not enough to bring the the tv to life. I don't know if this is result of damage done by me, since I had a hell of a time recapping the board, solder was different from left to right, some pop out with ease, others I had keep the iron on or break the cap off and double up on irons. I did alot of damage and burn myself several times in the process, burn quite bit of copper tracks but does not seem to have any continuity issues.

              I've notice two 10uf/25v caps near the a/v inputs have no ground but I don't know where they go.


              edit:
              also ps_on to PSU now has 1.1v.
              Last edited by Mad_Professor; 04-03-2013, 02:32 PM.

              Comment

              • Mad_Professor
                A Mech Warrior
                • Feb 2011
                • 1587

                #27
                Re: CAP ID and what to replace?

                Well I tested u703 with live voltage from left to right

                pin 1 = 0.00v
                Tab/pin 2 = 3.3v
                Pin 3 = 4.9v consistent with 5v coming from the PSU.

                So now I'm going to trace the 3.3v to the next component and go from there, there is a shorted transistor somewhere or a broken ceramic cap and I'm going to find it.

                Comment

                • momaka
                  master hoarder
                  • May 2008
                  • 12160
                  • Bulgaria

                  #28
                  Re: CAP ID and what to replace?

                  Originally posted by Mad_Professor
                  there is a shorted transistor somewhere or a broken ceramic cap and I'm going to find it.
                  Could also be an open resistor or open transistor (rare).

                  Comment

                  • Mad_Professor
                    A Mech Warrior
                    • Feb 2011
                    • 1587

                    #29
                    Re: CAP ID and what to replace?

                    Originally posted by momaka
                    Could also be an open resistor or open transistor (rare).
                    Yeah but if it was open why would I only be getting 1.1v on the 3.3v rail at the ir/menu panel? this doesn't make sense. I'm getting 1.1v on 3.3v, PWR and IN pins and 1.1v on the ps_on to the psu so something is just sending volts everywhere, what controls the ps_on?

                    I get 95 ohms on the pin2/tab of u703 to ground.

                    I really could use some help here since I am way over my head here, because I can't read the mess on this board and figure out what goes to what.

                    Comment

                    • momaka
                      master hoarder
                      • May 2008
                      • 12160
                      • Bulgaria

                      #30
                      Re: CAP ID and what to replace?

                      Originally posted by Mad_Professor
                      Yeah but if it was open why would I only be getting 1.1v on the 3.3v rail at the ir/menu panel? this doesn't make sense.
                      Leakage current through other components is one possibility. It's rare but I've seen it.

                      Originally posted by Mad_Professor
                      I really could use some help here since I am way over my head here, because I can't read the mess on this board and figure out what goes to what.
                      I know you included some pictures on page 1, but to have someone help you trace stuff through the board, you will need many high-resolution pictures of the entire board, front and back. In the key areas near the plug, even the smallest traces will have to be visible.

                      Comment

                      • Mad_Professor
                        A Mech Warrior
                        • Feb 2011
                        • 1587

                        #31
                        Re: CAP ID and what to replace?

                        Originally posted by momaka
                        Leakage current through other components is one possibility. It's rare but I've seen it.


                        I know you included some pictures on page 1, but to have someone help you trace stuff through the board, you will need many high-resolution pictures of the entire board, front and back. In the key areas near the plug, even the smallest traces will have to be visible.
                        Is this good enough? Otherwise I will have to contact one of my friends and use their nikon.
                        Attached Files

                        Comment

                        • momaka
                          master hoarder
                          • May 2008
                          • 12160
                          • Bulgaria

                          #32
                          Re: CAP ID and what to replace?

                          Originally posted by Mad_Professor
                          Is this good enough?
                          Yes, these are pretty good. Sorry for the no reply. Was sick for the past week and a half and didn't log-in BCN before that.

                          Anyways, I'll probably look at it in more detail next week since I have a big project this week and not much time to complete it.

                          In the mean time, check all of the diodes and zener diodes near the connector (like ZD701, ZD702, D701, and D703). Ceramic cap C767 looks a bit dark. Maybe it's the light, IDK, but check for short circuit.
                          There's also a transistor that looks slightly darker, but again, I'm not sure if it's the lighting that's causing this. Cant see a designator for it, but it's right next to one of those small electrolytic caps C709 by the connector. The "transistor" I'm referring to is in a SOT-23 package.

                          Comment

                          • Mad_Professor
                            A Mech Warrior
                            • Feb 2011
                            • 1587

                            #33
                            Re: CAP ID and what to replace?

                            Originally posted by momaka
                            Yes, these are pretty good. Sorry for the no reply. Was sick for the past week and a half and didn't log-in BCN before that.

                            Anyways, I'll probably look at it in more detail next week since I have a big project this week and not much time to complete it.

                            In the mean time, check all of the diodes and zener diodes near the connector (like ZD701, ZD702, D701, and D703). Ceramic cap C767 looks a bit dark. Maybe it's the light, IDK, but check for short circuit.
                            There's also a transistor that looks slightly darker, but again, I'm not sure if it's the lighting that's causing this. Cant see a designator for it, but it's right next to one of those small electrolytic caps C709 by the connector. The "transistor" I'm referring to is in a SOT-23 package.
                            I was going to post earlier today but got distracted, also I'm not feeling well, runny nose, cat is sick also.

                            When I get a chance I'll check those components.

                            Comment

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