Maybe. Problem is, these displays are either a) in warranty, in which case they will just replace them or b) out of warranty in which case they don't really care. And while they might offer a Mainboard or PSU replacement, it'll be pricey.
As Eizo is more of a "professional" brand, most customers are probably just buying a new one or need their display replaced asap, no matter what.
You could try writing to various countries Eizo support channels (use gpt for translate). It seems like they handle the requests in very different ways depending on country and...
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In over my head
Last Activity: 02-27-2025, 03:37 AM
Joined: 01-30-2024
Location: South-West Germany
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So, just a quick update. The monitor has been working flawless ever since. Its kinda odd but im not complaining. I thought about it a few times and incidentally came across a thread on reddit where someone had a similar issue with an entirely different monitor but almost the same board logic. He solved the problem by resoldering the eeproms that apparently were placed on a spot that heats up a lot and cools down faster than the rest of the PCB. So basically inducing cold solders due to repeated thermal cycling. And as far as i can tell, this might have been the issue for me too. The Renesas Chip...Leave a comment:
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Hm, well. You don't have to be an electrical engineer or anything alike to be allowed to do basic troubleshooting. I certainly wasn't when I started attempting repairs.
Most things are quite easy really. If you have a multimeter (even a very cheap or free one from Kleinanzeigen will do), you can already do a lot of basic testing etc.
Furthermore, if you unplug the power cable (always both ends to be absolutely safe) and then press the power button for a few seconds, you should be absolutely fine. I wouldn't advice touching the PSU either way. Opening the monitor up (gently)...Leave a comment:
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Hey there.
Glad my thread was of some help, even though it might not have solved you issue (yet). I know the infuriating feeling of being the only one with a certain problem.
I agree with CapLeaker, do the heat test.
I would add that you might wanna have a look at the Eeprom ICs. Try gently pressing down on them with your finger during turn-on. I still kinda suspect a bad solder on one of the eeproms was my problem. Might be yours too.
Good.luck...Leave a comment:
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I think so too. Tested them and the seem to work. Maybe it's some kind of weird design implementation, although I can't think of any reason why. Anyways, so far the monitor works flawless and I can't complain (except the brightness is awful with just 130cd/m² max). So I guess I'll replace that with LEDs next.
Just wanted to thank both of you again, you helped me a lot. Really glad this forum exists
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[ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","data-attachmentid":3212072}[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","data-attachmentid":3212073}[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","data-attachmentid":3212074}[/ATTACH] These are the DC measurements. I've just startet AC measurements while writing this, but I already have 0-87V AC on the Power Input pins 10-13. Seems to be gone after the 12v and...
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Well. You are right. Can't be the LVDS if the admin menu works.
But it's not just the HDMI, Displayport doesn't work either. If "the problem" occurs - then both HDMi and Displayport won't work, the osd won't work, the admin osd menu does work. That indeed rules out the LVDS. But I feel like it should also rule out the HDMI and DP chip, as those are separate and its unlikely that they both fail at the same time, every time (unless one fails and triggers a fail state or the power delivery fails - which I thought I had tested).
So that would leave me with fewer points of...Leave a comment:
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Yea, i guess that would have been too convenient. Idk why i jumped on the eeproms so quick. Would have maybe made sense for a failed/corrupt POST but yea. I´ll post the entire dump here though.
Im gonna go back to testing the Chip. Might take a look at the T-con again too. The symptoms of a full "on but not working at all" are pretty much consistent with disconnecting the LVDS (1). So i´ll go ahead and give it the "cool - hot - cool - hot" test. Then FPGA and then T-Con chip. I´ll get back to you if i find/suspect anything.
If it really is any of the BGA chips,...Leave a comment:
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Update: Testes the eeprom after desoldering. Now verifies and readings seem to be identical. Well, there goes that theory.
Pasted the dumps, had to rename them to .txt otherwise .bin was not allowed for upload. Hope this is okay, if not, ill remove them ofc.
[ATTACH]n3211273[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]n3211274[/ATTACH]Update: Testes the eeprom after desoldering. Now verifies and readings seem to be identical. Well, there goes that theory.
Pasted the dumps, had to rename them to .txt otherwise .bin was not allowed for upload. Hope this is okay, if not, ill remove them ofc.
[ATTACH]n3211273[/ATTACH]...Leave a comment:
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Yeah, a bit weird. I was in a bit of a rush, so I'll verify again. Iotas Is probably right, that might make a difference. I'll double check tomorrow and unsolder the EEPROM to read without interference. I should not however that the ones from the Eizo chips (the ones I called lvds) were identical both times and verified on first try.
Cant upload the dumps here, so Google drive it is: [URL="https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1jgxKg3vsXanSezdHjRNU_z6siCt6zPVD"]LINK[/URL]
Just noticed file says 25Q56 instead of 25Q64, don't get confused, that was a typo.Yeah,Leave a comment:
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Okay, so I apparently didn't save the Excel sheet where I noted all the voltages - but I don't think it matters anyways, as I couldn't make out any weird readings (except for two voltage regulators that have their output side immediately connected to ground which is kinda confusing to me - next to the Fan connectors.).
But today the EEPRom 24/25 reader arrived. Before I had to leave for the day, I was able to get it running and took 4 readings of the FPGA M25Q64CVSIG, aswell as 2 readings from the M25Q16CVSIG that sit next toy the Eizo LVDS chips each.
The Eizo chip EEPRom...Leave a comment:
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Thanks for taking the time to read, I really appreciate it.
I guess calling it an intermittent would be quite fitting. I suppose it mostly works when cold. Also seems to mostly work when it has either been turned off for some time, or restarted within 5 seconds of being turned on (where about 90% of times the restart fails if I wait longer than 5-10 second after turning it off). It's certainly odd.
So, I went and checked almost every trace between IO and LVDS cables with floodlight LED under the PCB, through a microscope. Seems like those are good, both in cold and warm...Leave a comment:
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Nevermind. I am an idiot. 0.002V on diode mode is the voltage from a short. Measuring the pads (with no diode installed) gives 0.002V. [B]Because it is connecting somewhere else via the PCB. [/B]
Then again, it was damaged either way, so there's that.
See kids, these obvious oversights and mistakes happen, when you inhale to much soldering fumes.
Really banking on someone like [USER="132583"]CapLeaker[/USER] to take a look at [URL="https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubleshooting-hardware-devices-and-electronics-theory/troubleshooting-computer-displays/3208177-eizo-cx270-no-signal-but-backlight-and-panel-works-logo-works-admin-menu-works-osd-doesn-t-what"]my...Leave a comment:
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Funny enough. I'm trying to fix my CX270 which does sometimes work and the stops working after it warms up (but only if I restart it after it has already warmed up). And D044 gives me 0,002V in both directions.
After the painful desoldering of D044, I've found that it has cracked on the bottom side.
It now measures 0,4V in one, and OC in the other direction. I'm getting 0,002V when trying to measure via the exposed copper (where it cracked) on the bottom side.
Good thing Mouser got those for around 40 cents and minimum order amount of 1pc. I'll order 2.
...Leave a comment:
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You mean you managed to tear the cable that connects to Mainboard to the T-Con? (LVDS).
That shouldn't kill the monitor. At least in theory. Unless you managed to short something while doing so.
You said you replaced the flex cable for a longer one. Have you tried the shorter cable again?
What do the capacitors measure when removed from the board (capacitance mode). It's unlikely that you managed to damage them all, so this might just be how they were designed. Look for fuses, and take measurements from the probing points on the T-Con board while plugged...Leave a comment:
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Okay. So I might be going bananas, but im sure this monitor is out to troll me.
I took a lot of measurements and reading on all kinds of SMDs, ports, wires etc. Then, i wanted to take some other readings, while powered on... [B]and god damnit - it powered on just fine. [/B]With everything plugged in. And its been running non Stop for around 4 hours now. There are no artifacts or distortions of any kind. It happily displays all test patterns and works using both HDMI and Displayport.
Now, i am afraid to turn it off again. Because the last time it did that, it didnt wanna power...Leave a comment:
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EIZO CX270 - No signal but Backlight and Panel works, logo works, admin menu works. OSD doesn't. What?!
Hi, so i guess I´ll have to make a new topic here, as i browsed through hundreds of other threads but couldn't find a solution to my problem yet.
I got a EIZO CX270 from a friend. He said it doesn't work anymore and wont display any signal or take any OSD inputs. Well, as an aspiring photographer I couldn't say no, could I? Thought it was an easy game, replace a bad cap and have a working monitor. But nooope, it wasn't supposed to be this easy.
So let me start with the problem description. I'll try my best not to skip anything so this might get rather long.
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Cheers, Been reading here for quite some time and always found good and helpful information here. Made me more confident in attempting repairs and genreally educating myself here has been a lot of fun. Hoping to give something back one day and be a contributing member on this forum....Leave a comment:
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