What's happen if we raplace badcaps with good same rate but not same size? I want to replace 11 badcaps 1500uF-6.3V- 8mm by 1500uF-6.3V but ony 6mm. It run OK after it's replaced but it 's OK for long time? It can be broke again?
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Re: Raplace same rate - not same size
If you're replacing them with good-quality capacitors, it'll be fine for a long time. As long as the rating is just as good, which it is, it shouldn't matter.You know there's something wrong when you open up a PSU and are glad to find Teapos.
Why I don't buy cheap cases!
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Re: Raplace same rate - not same size
Generally the bigger the longer the life. But of course any branded cap will last at least as long as it is rated for.
But 6mm sounds very small to me, so make shure the ratet life, esr and ripple current at least meet the original or exceed them. Then you are on the safe side. Due to some improvements like aqueouse elektrolyte it is possible to reduce cap size dramatically, but those caps are usually 2000h rated.Comment
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Re: Raplace same rate - not same size
what brand/series of caps will you use to replaceComment
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Re: Replace same rate - not same size
I replaced GSC 1500uF-6.3V-8mm with Nichicon 1500uF-6.3V-6mm. My replaced mainboard is Gigabyte EP-3WEM2. All caps are around CPU (near FETs). It ran OK for 3 days.
Hope for more long time.
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Problem
This is an LG edge LED lit LCD Display. The LEDs are on the bottom edge of the display. There are 2 bars (left and right) Each bar has many LEDs and a 6 pin connector. Each pin drive several LEDs thus is the highest current flow / heat junction. The weak lead free solder gradually fails with thermal expansion/contraction cycling and increases resistance. PSU will compensate up to a point, then when the current is too high, PSU just shut down the backlight causing a dark display. I have even seen one which the connector just fell off as solder points became completely detached.... -
TV Model: Hitachi 40HYC42
Power Supply: 17IPS71
MainBoard: 17MB95M
Panel: VES400UNDS-2D-NO3
When the set came in it was dead. Fuse was open primary side and the power mosfet was shorted. So I ordered a new power supply. Now it turns on, only displays "Hitachi" and then power off red and blue led flashing.
I had to modify the 0ohm resistors in the led backlight of the new PS like the original power supply.
Is there any variants on 17IPS71 power supply's?
UART output pins 10 and 12 on scart connector:
...Code:12:24:04.595
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Hello guys,
I have a problem with my laptop as in the title, black screen, capslock displays error code 5 long 3 short, no voltage on the coils above the CPU, before removing the drive I had 0.8v there, power led flashed 5x long and the battery would not charge (current jumped from 0.5a to 2.8a), now on the power led I have a steady white light or orange when the battery is connected.
What I did:
- Laptop was not detecting ram, loose pins on ram slot, error 3.2 disappeared, ram working tested in another laptop
As far as I know the laptop was in another service center... -
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Yes, I know I don't post this stuff much anymore....the only reason I'm posting this one is because of a NVMe adapter incompatibility; seems rather planned by Supermicro.....or I'm atleast a bit suspicious. It's plenty new enough to have a UEFI bios but a short 'happy list' of NVMe controllers that will work with this board, as if by some 'miracle', all Intel....so lets start at the beginning; we'll get back to this later.
Of course the motherboard is as the thread title states; X10dai....but we'lre going to have some fun shoehorning this into a modern 'gamer case' that can actually...
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