I have a blown MOV (its RED about the size of a dime) its directly across 120V AC mains. I would think this is a "standard" surge supressor. What is a reasonable component to repalces this? the inline FUSE is 4 amps fast blow. I'd like to still provide some future protection. Any suggestion are appreciated.
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Re: MOV question
I am thinking this is a good fit:
MOV14V130Y
340V clamping 130V AC 57 Joules -
Re: MOV question
130VAC is too tight. We discussed here: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=101686
Design for around 25% over max. system voltage, mains can be ~123VAC lately, gives a lowest 150VAC part. Around 175-200VAC 20mm parts are common in power bars.
I would not go with that MOV it's low cost and today I use 150VAC rated 20mm with the built-in thermal fuse (TMOV series) for fire protection.
It depends on why the old MOV blew, if you have lightning etc.
Red is antique GE or newer Littelfuse part.Comment
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Re: MOV question
Redwire is absolutely correct. For 120VAC you need at least a 175VAC MOV. Some suggest even a 220VAC MOV.Comment
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Re: MOV question
Hey fellas thanks feor the replies! And Redwire thanks for the link. I will def. go higher rating. The reason this MOV blew is the power company has a tree fall and mst have shorted distribution lines and ZAP. loss of power to an entire area then they reset and this device ia like from the 1980's or 1990's at the latest. So I will go with a good a TMOV as I can find. I amlooking mouser since they have another component I needed for this same device. Its a MAINS filter like this: (spec wise)
KEMET
FAHAV3100ZB000Comment
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Hi,
I've been living in the same apartment for about 5 years now, and moved into it with my old Samsung plasma TV (PS51F5500).
Ever since we've moved in, we would sometimes see strange power-cycling behavior. For example:- TV would randomly turn off then back on.
- TV would turn off and the LED light would blink for a while (over a minute sometimes) until eventually it went back to a regular off state and could be turned on
- Sometimes it would require disconnecting the mains cord from the TV, waiting several minutes, then putting it back in and turning the TV back on. This had limited
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1000uf 120v 46mmx18mm or something close, Thanks -
This looks like a handy little tool for safely connecting to wires to mains while testing some device you're working on:
https://ro.farnell.com/cliff-electro...test/dp/658716
Or CL1860 CLIFF - image attached.
But quite expensive for a plastic and some metal.
I couldn't find a cheaper alternative.
Do you know one? Or what other name can I google?
Thanks.... -
Lenovo Thinkpad W541 Wistron LKM-1 WS MB 12291-2 Works from the network and charges the battery only when it is turned off.
If you press the power button, the laptop turns on and works from the battery, but does not take power from the power supply.
If you boot into Windows and close the lid while working, thereby putting the laptop into sleep mode, the laptop begins to charge the battery.
even checked it this way: I bring a neodymium magnet to the Hall sensor during operation - the screen goes out and the battery starts charging.
Also, the laptop does not turn on without... -
Model:37LP1R//37LP1R-ZE//37LP1R-ZE.ALEWLF
Power supply(SMPS)-KNP-3371(IDTV6 & DCR)//KNP-3372 (Tornado)//REV:A 05. 3.21
it is model:KNP-3372//6871TPT315B
It has an 8-pin IC111 connected to a small transformer T101 in the network,
which probably gives a voltage of 5V, but the IC is broken and I don't know the label.
Please if anyone knows the IC111 marking or the schematic of this network.
Thanks!
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