Going to be soldering a joint that needs to flow 80-100A at 12v. Is standard leaded solder good for this?
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Popcorn. -
Re: What solder would you recommend for this?
upload a foto of it.
any solder will do, but lead-free is stronger.
i'm more interested in what is connected to what that can handle that current! -
Re: What solder would you recommend for this?
regular 60/40 will do it ..its what i use in starters and alternators .Comment
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Re: What solder would you recommend for this?
You need to make sure the copper or the conductor is conducting the current and not the solder like always. As long as this is true, regular solder is fine. If you need the solder to matter, then either you're doing it wrong, or what you really need is welding.Comment
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Re: What solder would you recommend for this?
100A at 12 volts ? .. Better use cable lugs , nuts and bolts .Comment
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Re: What solder would you recommend for this?
Yeah, speaking of that, it's not "what solder would you recommend for this"... it's "what solder iron would you recommend for this"
I think you'd need a torch to get anywhere with that much thermal mass to solder.Comment
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Re: What solder would you recommend for this?
i use 100 watt iron for such jobs ..takes 20 minutes to heat up properlyComment
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This is a guide that I am writing for helping others to replace their MEC1503 EC chip if it breaks (or to get around an inconvenient prompt to the BIOS). This forum has been extremely helpful to me so I would like to contribute to help others. I will tell you right now that this task is very difficult to do. You MUST have experience and tools to do precision micro-soldering, BGA reballing, trace repair, and general laptop repair skills.
There are some specialty tools needed to do this task. The replacement MEC1503 chips can be acquired from Aliexpress. Do not buy the bare chips as... -
I get som bad cheap wick that im furious with so i need to order wick that suck solder like it should. best on aliexpress...
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Hello, I'm a beginner for micro soldering. Right now I have some difficult to solder a qfn 20, I guess I put too much solder on the thermal-ground pad, the result is a corner of chip wich don't touch the board (last try).
I use a wire solder with hot air, I tin the board and chip before with iron and I use good flux.
I will have to solder a LVDS connector (40 pins, laptop pc), I saw a solder paste in seringe, good quality (it does not scatter).
See the test :
https://youtu.be/bNAzC-EvqHs?t=1767
With hot air from bellow the board, that's... -
I'm trying to fix a broken MacBook Air, and got a parts board to salvage components from. Following the suggestions of many folks here, I wanted to get in a little practice of using my hot air station (A Quick 957DW+) on the parts board so I know what kind of behavior to expect.
For the life of me, I can't get anything done with this thing. I have tried multiple temperatures (from 210-425c), different air speeds, preheating the board (with the hot air, just warming it all around). I have applied what feels like excessive amounts of flux (Amtech V2-TF-559) and the solder on these components... -
Hello out there in Badcap land.
I have a Pioneer plasma that gave me the dreaded 8 red blink and shutdown, I have been trying to trace the failure points. On my last inspection while replacing a Y Sustain Board I noticed on the original and replacement board some missing solder, the points of connection
are from the Digital Address Board and the Buffer Boards. I have included the pictures, should I resolder these points or are they unsoldered intentionally? Any help would be much appreciated.
Thank you
Pixelcap...
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