Re: This is why you don't buy cheap multimeters.
i noticed the accuracy slides on the cheap hf meters just before the low batt indicator comes on.they are still fine for the shop help kid,ect.he blows it up i toss it and pull another from the backstock.critical stuff i use the old beckman manual range unit that we got rechargeable 9v's for as it does not even have auto off.or my fluke 77.
This is why you don't buy cheap multimeters.
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Re: This is why you don't buy cheap multimeters.
Hello. My name is Jim and I go by the user name SparkeyJim. I am new to the forum. I am currently working on LCD and plasma televisions and would like some input. What cap meter or LCR meters would you recommend for smd and mini alum caps on these sets.
Many thanks to those that respond. I will respond in kind.
Thank you, Jim GLeave a comment:
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Re: This is why you don't buy cheap multimeters.
I have a cheap HongKongFlyApart, LLC 830B variant (that's actually my only multimeter, lol), and when I short-circuit the probes on the 2000 Ohm setting, it shows 3 Ohms. New batteries will bring it down to 1 or 2 Ohms, but it's not worth it. So when I get 3 Ohms in a circuit on that setting, I know it's a short-circuit
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On the 200 Ohm scale, it shows 0.9 to 2.7 Ohms, depending on how it feels. Most of the time, it's over 2 Ohms.
Continuity/diode test shows pretty much the same numbers as the 2000 Ohm scale when the numbers get low.
That multimeter has served me well for many repairs, though, so I will dismiss its flaws for now.
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Re: This is why you don't buy cheap multimeters.
ICL7106 may be damaged by static electricity, transplant procedure is possible:
http://www.crystalradio.cn/bbs/thread-109673-1-3.html
http://www.crystalradio.cn/bbs/attac...UB9PB5bP14.jpgLeave a comment:
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Re: This is why you don't buy cheap multimeters.
Yes i did open it up, it only has a few SMD ceramic caps and a MKT 100 nF and that's it. They test good. Sounds more like a resistor that has shifted value, and they can't be measured in-circuit. For a $5 meter it isn't worth my time. I'll buy a $20 meter from Uni-T to replace it, as i currently have an extra temperature probe which i can't use on anything.To make matters worse the ICL7106 is in epoxied blob form, and it doesn't even respect the standard pinout. Too many cut corners to bother with it.
Last edited by Th3_uN1Qu3; 10-20-2011, 01:16 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: This is why you don't buy cheap multimeters.
Did you open it up and check for BAD CAPS?
Sounds like a great opportunity expand your skills into multimeter repair or at least to expand your parts collection....Leave a comment:
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This is why you don't buy cheap multimeters.
As you know i own a number of meters for different purposes. The Uni-T UT60E and UT70A do the heavy lifting, but i often need a couple extra basic meters. One of them is a DT838 i bought this summer IIRC. I mainly bought it for the temperature and buzzer, as i already had two 830Bs.
Well, since a couple weeks ago it started working erratically on resistance. More specifically, on the low ranges it reads in the hundreds of ohms even if there's a short, then it slowly counts down to the real value...
I thought it was the battery so i replaced it today. Surprise surprise - exact same behavior. To make matters worse, the temperature range is busted too. It still measures voltages fine, but that's what i didn't need it for.On the other hand my two 830Bs still work great even though i've had them for years... but those two are both brand name (one Uni-T, one Mastech), while the 838 was the HongKongFlyApart, LLC version.
But hey, it's only five bucks.
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