Series light bulb trick

[neuron]

Hi,

I'm using with success the "Series light bulb trick" in many circuits - troubleshooting.
And have 15, 25, 40, 60, 100 W - incandescent light bulbs.

But "Governments around the world have passed measures to phase out incandescent light bulbs for general lighting in favor of more energy-efficient lighting alternatives" in http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phase-o...nt_light_bulbs

It's possible use LED or Economic light bulb?

Or other Variac ... idea ?

Best Regards,
Ruy

[goontron]

large 1-3Kw heater is what i use.

[eccerr0r]

The halogen bulbs, which are not yet on the ban list, can also be used. If all else fails, an appropriate resistor works fine too... Granted, getting a 60W resistor can be quite expensive.

[mariushm]

60w or lower regular incandescent lightbulbs can still be sold.

There are halogen based incandescent lighbulbs that can be sold today because they're eating 40-60w but producing the equivalent of about 75 watts.

There are 100w, 250w, 300w, 500w tungsten/halogen bulbs used for illuminating exteriors of buildings, like this for example:

http://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-58887...s=halogen+bulb
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Quartz-300-...s=halogen+bulb

20w or lower lightbulbs will continue to be sold legally for bed lamps and stuff like that, so you could put 4-5 in series if you have to.

I think you'll be just fine.

[neuron]

Originally Posted by mariushm

60w or lower regular incandescent lightbulbs can still be sold.

There are halogen based incandescent lighbulbs that can be sold today because they're eating 40-60w but producing the equivalent of about 75 watts.
...

Thank you very much for all your comments mariushm, eccerr0r.

I can use the halogen and the effect is the same.

I have a LCR and in AUTO mode the incandescent, halogen give R.
But the economic C.

The procedure is: the halogen is mark 55W ( lumens, candle - 60 W). We use the 55 W to measure the R.

goontron - I don't understand your info ... 3KW ... I don't need to power a car

Best regards,
Ruy

[selldoor]

In the uk you can still buy 40w 60w and 100w relector light bulbs
maybe only in edison screw fitting

http://cpc.farnell.com/sylvania/0015...-es/dp/LP00966

Or "Rough Service" bulbs

http://cpc.farnell.com/ge-lighting/0...-bb45-00001003

[goontron]

Originally Posted by neuron

goontron - I don't understand your info ... 3KW ... I don't need to power a car

Best regards,
Ruy

1-3Kw = 1000 to 3000 watts
that's the wattage of the heater that is my replacement for the old bulb trick.

[neuron]

Originally Posted by selldoor

In the uk you can still buy 40w 60w and 100w relector light bulbs
maybe only in edison screw fitting
...

Thanks,






goontron - Can you detail your info ... I don't understand.

I'm trying to limit the current!!!!!!!!!!!!! ... with your 3KW ... we have a short circuit again.

Best regards,
Ruy

[japlytic]

I've used AC-rated capacitors for motor starting/running as a replacment for series limiters (generates no heat), since I learned that capacitors can be reactive components depending on frequency.
An AC voltmeter can be used between the Live input from the mains and the Live output to the load, and therefore, the AC voltmeter can be used as a "brightness" indicator.
As far as I know, halogen lamps can have undesirable characteristics for series limiters.

[budm]

The reason for using the incadescent lamp is that when the lamp does not light up the resistance is low, when it lights up, the resistance can be as high as 10X the cold resistance, so it is like having automatic variable resistance in series with the load, when the load draws too much the lamp will automatically reduce the current. You want that cold/hot resistance function and also as an indicator. Use this method since the 70's. My set up has two lamp sockets and bypass switch.
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/bud...tml?sort=3&o=0

[budm]

BTW: I checked
100W 120V lamp cold resistance is 10 Ohms, so current draw at start up is 12A, then drop down to 0.833A after the lamp is fully lit.
200W 120V is 5 Ohms.

[neuron]

Originally Posted by japlytic

I've used AC-rated capacitors for motor starting/running as a replacment for series limiters (generates no heat), since I learned that capacitors can be reactive components depending on frequency.
An AC voltmeter can be used between the Live input from the mains and the Live output to the load, and therefore, the AC voltmeter can be used as a "brightness" indicator.
As far as I know, halogen lamps can have undesirable characteristics for series limiters.

Instead of incandescent light?
Can you detail where I put the Cap (brand and type of motors??????) or AC voltmeter

F 220V - > Ac Voltmeter -> circuit with short?
N ____________________________________

Originally Posted by budm

BTW: I checked
100W 120V lamp cold resistance is 10 Ohms, so current draw at start up is 12A, then drop down to 0.833A after the lamp is fully lit.
200W 120V is 5 Ohms.

But I use 100 W to power a TV and we need 1,..A or 2A to power ... if you get 0.833A ...????


Best regards,
Ruy

[budm]

0.833A is the maximum current it will allow to flow through the load. The purpose of the lamp is to help indicating if the Power supply has shorted circuit, you will not be running the TV with lamp in place. When I work on Monitor, I use 75W for up to 22inch, you will see the lamp flash bright for seconds then dims down.
For TV I start with 75W first to see if the standby power SUPPLY is OK since 5VSTBY is only about 2~3A. You will develop the sense of what you are seeing with the lamp to tell you if something is not quite right, it is hard to explain, but when you do it enough you will understand what you are seeing.
If the load requires 100W, then you will need to figure out what the series resistance should be so you will still get to within 10% of the running voltage on the load. When the lamp is fully lit due to short, the voltage on the load will be very small.

[neuron]

Originally Posted by budm

0.833A is the maximum current it will allow to flow through the load. The purpose of the lamp is to help indicating if the Power supply has shorted circuit, you will not be running the TV with lamp in place. When I work on Monitor, I use 75W for up to 22inch, you will see the lamp flash bright for seconds then dims down.
For TV I start with 75W first to see if the standby power SUPPLY is OK since 5VSTBY is only about 2~3A. You will develop the sense of what you are seeing with the lamp to tell you if something is not quite right, it is hard to explain, but when you do it enough you will understand what you are seeing.
If the load requires 100W, then you will need to figure out what the series resistance should be so you will still get to within 10% of the running voltage on the load. When the lamp is fully lit due to short, the voltage on the load will be very small.

What other "guns" you have in your Lab.?

Best regards,
Ruy

[budm]

Old CFL for inveter tester:
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/bud...?sort=3&page=1

http://s807.photobucket.com/user/bud...?sort=3&page=1

[neuron]

Originally Posted by neuron

Instead of incandescent light?
Can you detail where I put the Cap (brand and type of motors??????) or AC voltmeter

F 220V - > Ac Voltmeter -> circuit with short?
N ____________________________________

Please instructions