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  • LuigiV_IT
    replied
    Re: Post your system.......

    my two jewels:


    Alienware 17R3 Win10 - i7-6820HK-32GB DDR4 2133MHz-17.3 FHD (1920 x 1080) IPS-Anti-Glare 300-nits - GTX 980M 4GB GDDR5 - 970 Evo 1TB M.2 NVMe SSD + 950Pro 512GB M.2 NVMe SSD + SSD 860 EVO 1TB

    Inspiron 15 7000 Gaming - i7-7700HQ - Nvidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB - 16GB Ram 2.400 MHz - 970 EvoPlus 512MB M.2 NVMe SSD + 1TB 5400 rpm

    Leave a comment:


  • Dan81
    replied
    Re: Post your system.......

    Since I have another i3 in my hands, I figured I could make a build:

    CPU: Intel Core i3 540 3.07GHz
    MB: Gigabye GA-H55M-S2V
    PSU: Frontier DR-8460BTX 450W
    HDD: Samsung HD322HJ 320GB + Samsung HD502IJ 500GB
    RAM: 2x2GB DDR3-1333
    GPU: Gainward Geforce GT630 1GB GDDR5
    ODD: Lite-On iHAS-222 DVD-RW
    Cooler: stock LGA775 cooler from a Celeron E3400
    Case: JNC RJA-52
    OS: Windows 8.1 Pro x64

    NOTES:

    1 - motherboard has a RESET problem - will not reset, instead it hangs on the screen I press reset on. Powering off using the 4 second hold method does work however. I'm suspecting a problem on the RESET signal (maybe even missing). Otherwise, the motherboard works fine apart from this problem.

    2 - PSU's original internals (Deer) were replaced with internals from a CWT ISO unit that had a rusty case. Also replaced the fan with a Yate Loon that came with the CWT, with the addition of a fan controller out of an defunct FSP unit. Let me know if you want some pictures of it!

    3 - The JNC case was reused from my main i3-3220 machine - I moved all of it into a Delux MG-760, "BMW style" casing, as I'm going to replace the mobo in it soon with a Gigabyte G1 Sniper 3.

    4 - The LGA775 cooler I used is one of those small ones which are probably bundled with 45nm CPUs, and I managed to fit it on LGA1156 by first pushing 2 of the pins in vertical order, then pulling the other two far enough to reach the other two holes. I did try to do the bolt mod with the original 90nm/65nm cooler that comes with Prescott/Conroe/Kentsfield CPUs, but the board was bending so horrible that I scrapped the idea of installing it altogether and went for the smaller cooler as I could easily work with plastic.
    Last edited by Dan81; 05-14-2019, 03:27 AM.

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  • coreAngel
    replied
    Re: Post your system.......

    Wow i've never posted my system here, but this my upgrade

    CPU: AMD Phenom II X6 1055T 2.8 GHz/3.3 Ghz Turbo AM3
    MB: Gigabyte 970A
    PSU: Antec HCG (High Current Gamer) 750M- 750 Watt Semi Modular (its based off a custom Seasonic AM Platform, Uses United/Nippon Chemicon Caps, and two teapo Polymers)
    HDD: Samsung 250Gb SSD, Velociraptor (10K RPM) 500Gb, WD Red 2 TB, WD Blue 2TB
    RAM: 24 GB of 2x 4GB Kingston/2x 8Gb G.SKill DDR3-1600
    GPU: MSI Radeon R7 250 2GB (i used to have two XFX Radeon 7770 in Crossfire, but wasn't able to play Fallout 4)
    Optical Drive: Bluray Disc Writer
    CPU-Cooler: Corsair H100
    Case: Cooler Master HAF XB II
    OS: Windows 7 Professional 64-Bit (love Win7)

    Laptop

    Dell Latitude D630
    CPU (Upgaded) from Intel Core 2 Duo 2.0Ghz / Intel Core 2 Duo T9300 2.50GHz
    Ram Elpida (made in Japan) 2x 4 GB DDR2-800
    HDD SanDisk 120Gb SSD (using MLC tech)
    GPU- Integrated Graphics
    Optical-DVD Player /CD burner
    OS- Lubuntu
    Last edited by coreAngel; 05-13-2019, 10:19 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Digi
    replied
    Re: Post your system.......

    Current system as my main, not really a box but a laptop:

    Asus G752VT
    Core i7 6700HQ
    GTX 970M
    16GB RAM
    256GB SSD + 1TB 7200RPM HDD
    17.3in 1920x1080 IPS G-Sync 75Hz

    Other laptop (Elitebook 8470p):

    Intel Core i5 3320M
    AMD Radeon 7570M
    16GB RAM
    500GB SSD
    1600x900 14.1in panel @ 60Hz


    I'll get images of them once my desk is re-done and tidied, it's a complete mess and makes a bad impression if I do some now.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dan81
    replied
    Re: Post your system.......

    Originally posted by momaka View Post
    I like it, especially the case. I suppose this is it, isn't it?
    https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrac..._its_going_to/
    Also glad to see you didn't go "neat freak" with the cable management. It's neat, but not too sterile (which I like, as I find rigs that are too "clean" rather boring ). The only funny thing I find is how small the motherboard looks in that case. Here, I am always short on full ATX cases (and all cases, in general), so any full ATX case I get always receives a full ATX mobo.
    Yeah, that's me

    I wasn't really neat freak with cable management (come on, it's a medium-sized Deer case, I'm not expecting A++++ grade wire management to be possible in it) but at least have some decent WM in it.

    Leave a comment:


  • momaka
    replied
    Re: Post your system.......

    Originally posted by Dan81 View Post
    Updated my rig so far:...
    I like it, especially the case. I suppose this is it, isn't it?
    https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrac..._its_going_to/
    Also glad to see you didn't go "neat freak" with the cable management. It's neat, but not too sterile (which I like, as I find rigs that are too "clean" rather boring ). The only funny thing I find is how small the motherboard looks in that case. Here, I am always short on full ATX cases (and all cases, in general), so any full ATX case I get always receives a full ATX mobo.

    Originally posted by ChaosLegionnaire View Post
    errr... u're running four sticks with 1t command rate?! i think thats your problem! when running four sticks, the command rate must always be 2t or else the mch cant handle the addressing required for four sticks and will crap out.
    Interesting. I'll see if I can find some info/readings on that. I used 1T, because that's what the motherboard picked by default the first time I had the motherboard work with all 4 RAM slots filled with RAM (that is, when I had the 2x2 + 2x1 GB arrangement). So that's why I thought I'd leave it at that.

    Originally posted by ChaosLegionnaire View Post
    iirc, the benchmarking some people have done back in the day comparing 1t vs 2t is about 30-50 mhz of speed. since the ram takes a 150 mhz hit from running it at 1t, i suggest setting the command rate back to 2t. the increase in speed will more than make up for the difference.
    I figured that might be the case too. But I am still somewhat concerned that the last stick that I thought was faulty may not like being ran at 800 MHz (or perhaps it's the mobo??). So, if anything, I probably won't try to make the RAM go faster than 667 MHz. But perhaps I might drop the timings a bit further?... we will see.

    Rig is still running fine so far. I also narrowed down the YT video issue a bit more - it also happens when playing MP4 videos with VLC. But if I use Windows Media Player, I get no problems whatsoever.Going to play more with those eventually to see why that is.

    Originally posted by ChaosLegionnaire View Post
    another thing to note is that since ddr2, ram speed has been rated for 2t command rates so if u run it at 1t command rate, u are in uncharted territory and assume all responsibility...
    Well, my trash-picked Presario V6000 laptop chose 1T command rate for its two sticks of RAM (1x PC6400 1GB and 1x PC5300 1 GB) by default. And, in fact, its BIOS doesn't even have an option to change that. So maybe 1T isn't that uncommon.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dan81
    replied
    Re: Post your system.......

    Updated my rig so far:

    PSU: Raidmax RX-500XT (recapped with Chemicon caps, it's based on a pretty decent 400W Pangu Power unit - it's the same as the Tacens Radix Eco II 600W internally)
    MB: ASUS H61M-A
    CPU: Intel Core i3-3220 3.30GHz LGA1155
    HDD: Seagate ST31000340NS Barracuda ES.2 1TB & Hitachi HDS721050CLA360 500GB
    RAM: 1x4GB + 1x2GB - 6GB Crucial DDR3-1066 (supposed to be 8GB but one stick was faulty and the 8GB kit was bought second hand)
    GPU: Sapphire Radeon R7 240 2GB DDR3 - should be replacing this with either a HD6950 or a R7 260x as soon as possible
    ODD: TSSTCorp SH-224DB SATA DVD-RW
    HSF: Deepcool Alta 9 Blue
    Case: JNC/Deer RJA-52 (White)
    OS: Windows 10 Enterprise LTSC

    So far it works fine. I replaced the Start Menu with Classic Shell and life is sweet so far. Works even better than my ol' Xeon X5450.

    Leave a comment:


  • BigTroll
    replied
    Re: Post your system.......

    I paid off my newegg card today, my ryzen rig is finally all paid for!!

    Leave a comment:


  • ChaosLegionnaire
    replied
    Re: E-VGA 780i-SLI PC v3 final specs

    Originally posted by momaka View Post
    RAM: 8 GB (4x2GB) running at 650 MHz and 5-5-5-18 manual timings with 1T CR.
    errr... u're running four sticks with 1t command rate?! i think thats your problem! when running four sticks, the command rate must always be 2t or else the mch cant handle the addressing required for four sticks and will crap out. addressing lots of memory modules coupled with the high density of 2 gb sticks will overload the mch and it wont be stable coping with the demands.

    iirc, the benchmarking some people have done back in the day comparing 1t vs 2t is about 30-50 mhz of speed. since the ram takes a 150 mhz hit from running it at 1t, i suggest setting the command rate back to 2t. the increase in speed will more than make up for the difference. another thing to note is that since ddr2, ram speed has been rated for 2t command rates so if u run it at 1t command rate, u are in uncharted territory and assume all responsibility...

    Leave a comment:


  • RJARRRPCGP
    replied
    Re: my E-VGA 780i-SLI PC "build" v3

    Originally posted by momaka View Post
    This left one last thing that I’ve wanted to do: upgrade the RAM to 8 GB as planned originally. As the 4th matched RAM stick seemed to have issues, I tried another 2GB Corsair XMS stick – same timings and voltage, but this one was a version 4.7 vs. 4.3 for the other three sticks (or the other way around? I can’t remember. )

    I inserted that into the 4th slot, hit the power button and… BEEP BEEP BEEP… – the motherboard wasn’t happy again. (And neither was I! ) I removed that “new” 4th RAM stick, pressed power button again, and PC POSTed fine.
    A-ha! It does one long-two short for the RAM on yours as well, like mine, by my educated guess. And for mixed sticks, I simply cranked the DRAM voltage to 1.90V, after I saw one of my Asus socket 775 motherboards crash on the motherboard logo. (freeze at motherboard logo) (When I had DDR2)

    IIRC, I only saw that BSOD error when I had what I think was a wrong jumper combination, for the onboard audio jumpers on my Chaintech CT-7AJA2E (socket 462) motherboard, when I had a T-bird, LOL.
    Last edited by RJARRRPCGP; 03-31-2019, 08:24 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • momaka
    replied
    E-VGA 780i-SLI PC v3 final specs

    E-VGA 780i-SLI PC v3 final specs

    Just in case anyone is confused with the above “great wall of text” … here are the final specs of this PC that I think will stay like this for a while:

    CPU: Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 @ 2.925 MHz (1300 MHz FSB) and 1.23125V V_core
    Motherboard: E-VGA 780i-SLI (model 132-CK-NF78-A1) with modded 70 mm chipset fan
    RAM: 8 GB (4x2GB) Corsair XMS PC-6400 DDR2, 5-5-5-18, 1.80V, ver:4.3 <- running at 650 MHz and 5-5-5-18 manual timings with 1T CR
    Video Card: E-VGA GeForce GTX 560 SC 1GB DDR5
    CPU cooler: Dell XPS 630 (0N764D) 4-copper heatpipe cooler
    HDD: 500 GB Samsung (Seagate?) HDD
    Optical: DH-16ABSH11B Philips Lite On DVD-R/RW
    PSU: 500W Antec EarthWatts EA-500 (recapped)
    Case: Thermaltake Commander MS-I Snow Edition

    And CPU-Z screenshots:





    And for peripherals, I have the following connected to the above PC:
    Monitor: 21” Hitachi SuperScan 814 (CRT) <- truly still a beauty!
    Mouse: Wise-branded Logitech M-S69 ball mouse (PS/2) <- it's indestructible!
    Keyboard: Gateway G9900H (PS/2) <- beige, rubber key dome, but excellent feel
    Speakers/Headphones: RCA WHP141 semi-open stereo wireless headphones <-but I converted them to wired only, because they sound A LOT better that way

    Yes, I know all of the above peripherals are extremely outdated (with the exception of the headphones, perhaps.) Nonetheless, they serve their purpose quite well – especially that 21” Hitachi CRT. When I picked it up back in 2012, I wasn't sure I even wanted it (as I had already collected so many CRTs). However, it took me only 2-3 hours of using it to quickly realize this is probably the best CRT monitor in my house - even better than the Sony GDM-FW900, easily! It beats it both in terms of colors and sharpness.

    As for the rest of the stuff… the mouse is nothing to write home about, but built very solidly with reliable, tough buttons. I hate mice that mis-click (or click multiple times when you only click once.) The keyboard is a recent trash find that I got along with an old PC (post pending in the best cheap scores thread one of these days.) Despite being a rubber key dome keyboard, if feels very much like my beige Dell “QuietKey” rt7d5jtw (nothing about that one is quiet! ) – clack-y and tight, with deep keystrokes. Decently heavy too.

    Anyways, that is all I have for this PC.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • momaka
    replied
    my E-VGA 780i-SLI PC "build" v3

    This left one last thing that I’ve wanted to do: upgrade the RAM to 8 GB as planned originally. As the 4th matched RAM stick seemed to have issues, I tried another 2GB Corsair XMS stick – same timings and voltage, but this one was a version 4.7 vs. 4.3 for the other three sticks (or the other way around? I can’t remember. )

    I inserted that into the 4th slot, hit the power button and… BEEP BEEP BEEP… – the motherboard wasn’t happy again. (And neither was I! ) I removed that “new” 4th RAM stick, pressed power button again, and PC POSTed fine.
    - Was the 4th slot dead? Or perhaps I have to raise the RAM voltage?
    To test my RAM voltage theory, I upped the RAM voltage to 1.85V (it was previously at 1.825V). I tried both v4.3 and 4.7 sticks one more time, but PC refused to boot with them again.

    Continuing to mess around, I decided to run the FSB:RAM ratio 1:1. To do that, all I had to do was set the RAM frequency to 667 MHz. But I never do things the “proper” way, do I? Instead, I set the FSB to 1300 MHz (from 1333 previously, since the board let’s me choose any value I want – at least between 400 and 1600 MHz, that is.) This lowered my CPU over-clock only slightly to 2.925 GHz instead of 3 GHz. I figured it shouldn’t make much of a difference in performance but might make a slight difference for stability purposes. (?)

    Thus, in order to run 1:1 FSB:RAM with this “weird” FSB clock above, I had to set the RAM at 650 MHz. Figured a slight under-clock on the RAM with whatever timings it used for 667 MHz might help with stability. As the evening was nearing and I got tired of messing with this PC, I connected it back for use – this also gave me good opportunity to test the PC with the “weird” FSB and RAM clocks more thoroughly. Overall, I didn’t encounter any issues, save for the YouTube BSOD issue, which seemed to be there even before I played with the RAM.

    After nearly a week of testing and playing, it was time for another attempt at installing 8 GB. So I tried the 4th module again, same as last time. And unsurprisingly, the board beeped and didn’t POST once again. I removed the 4th module and tried to power the PC, as usual. But this time, she kept on beeping.
    - What the fffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff!!!
    I removed all the RAM sticks, except the one in the first slot. Can it POST? –Nope!
    - Seriously now!!! Made me wish the system would just explode into a fireball so at least I would know it’s dead.
    But it didn’t. And I am a stubborn one too.
    So I tried a single but different module in slot one – this time a 1 GB stick with same timings. PC didn’t POST but didn’t beep either. Instead, it just cycled through some BIOS POST codes. I re-inserted the module again. Now the PC POSTed “fine” again… albeit with CMOS settings all lost for whatever reason.
    *Sigh* I think we may have other issues here.

    At this point, I just didn’t trust any of the RAM tests I had done with the 780i-SLI motherboard. So I opened my closet, grabbed the first DDR2 PC I saw, and started testing all these pesky 2GB Corsair XMS sticks. But surprisingly, they all worked/passed fine – including the v4.7 module and the original 4th matched (v4.3) module that I thought was faulty. So it looked more and more like the issue was with the 780i-SLI motherboard.

    Thus, I went back to it and started again with just a single 2 GB Corsair module – PC POSTed and ran OK.
    I then added a second 2 GB stick and attempted POST – system OK again.
    Next, added 3rd and 4th stick, but this time 1 GB modules with same timing – system OK again. What?! So the 4th slot does appear to work! FFFFUUUUU E-VGA gremlins!

    This tripped an idea in my head: perhaps there’s an issue with the timings when I do the 4 matched RAM sticks? So I went in BIOS and set all RAM timing manually to 5-5-5-18, then changed the RAM frequency to 650 MHz (and FSB to 1300 MHz.) PC POSTed fine, as I expected. Main difference was that I was now running 6 GB in dual-channel (2x 2GB + 2x 1GB) instead of 6 GB in single channel (3x 2 GB).

    So what’s next? – I removed the two 1 GB modules and inserted the remaining two 2 GB Corsair XMS modules (that is, with the 4th module that I initially thought was faulty in slot 2a.) I then pressed the power button and… BINGO! – System finally POSTed with 8 GB of RAM in dual-channel mode.
    - About F*ing time!!! Seriously!

    … And that brings us to the above picture I posted, which is why it shows the finished PC with 4x 2GB matched RAM sticks.
    Whew! What a hassle to get that memory to 8 GB! I’m not touching those RAM modules ever again! (Except only if I run into issues again.) As it currently stands, the PC has been running for over a week now with the 8 GB memory config and no problems. Again, aside from YouTube giving me BSODs, the system has been pretty stable otherwise. Or is it? Time will tell with more testing. As I said, I’ve been using it mostly just to play games on every other evening or so. Haven’t tried it much with any other “daily” tasks, so we will see how it goes.

    Speaking of the random BSODs I get when watching YouTube:
    Originally posted by TechGeek View Post
    momaka: could you post a photo of the BSOD?
    Yes, sorry for the delay. Here you go:
    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1554002748

    As mentioned, it doesn't really give any info about what's failing. In fact, I wonder if that BSOD could be more bland.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • momaka
    replied
    my E-VGA 780i-SLI PC "build" v2

    Update on the E-VGA 780i-SLI PC…

    A few years ago, I found an E-VGA GeForce GTX560 Ti 2 GB video card at a yard sale for $10 and immediately snatched it. Since then, it's been in my head that this is the video card I'd like to eventually have in the 780i-SLI PC. The GT430 was really just more of a system “test card”… and having the problems it had with crashing @ stock clocks, I knew I'd be replacing it for something better. But what I didn't like about the E-VGA GeForce GTX560 Ti is that it's a fairly hot-running card (160W TDP) with a not-so-great single overhead fan on dual-slot HS. Thus, I was a bit reluctant to use it, until I could find a cheap after-market cooler that is better. Well, instead I found another E-VGA GeForce GTX560 video card recently for $10 on my local CL – and this one was a regular non-Ti version with only 1 GB of VRAM (i.e. a very common card). So I decided to use that one as the “sacrificial lamb” (after all, TDP difference between the Ti and non-TI version is only 10W – that is, the GTX560 non-TI is rated for 150W TDP with the same cooler as the Ti.)

    To use this “new” video card in the 780i-SLI build, however, I knew I would need a bigger PSU as that FSP 400W probably wasn't going to cut it with its combined 12V rails power being only 300W (it would have been right on the edge with the Q6600's 150W max. rated dissipation and the GTX560's TDP of 150W.) Thus, I figured now would also be a good time to test one of my “higher-end” repaired PSUs: the Enermax Pro 82+ EPR525AWT.
    (Link to the repair thread can be found here.)

    While installing the GTX560 and the Enermax PSU, I gave the PC a bit of “cable management” this time.

    It's still far from looking clean, but definitely not as bad as before.

    Now for the fun part – testing!
    Having removed the APFC circuit in the Enermax PSU for my experimental repair, I was honestly a bit nervous to press the power button at first. But then… YOLO!
    To my surprise, the system POSTed, the PSU voltages were stable, and 12V rail looked healthy @ 12.2V. I proceeded to installing the GPU drivers and rebooted. PSU felt only a bit warm and system was drawing about 125 Watts from the wall while idling after the drivers installed (according to my P3 Kill-A-Watt meter), which is only about 15-20W higher than with the GT430, IIRC. Not bad!

    This got me curious to do a power draw comparison of the two PSUs and video cards (and also slowly bump up the load on the repaired Enermax to see if it would run too hot or anything like that.) So I fired up OCCT and started some tests. First, I did a CPU Linpack test. With that, the max system consumption was about 180W – again, about 15-20W higher than with the FSP PSU, probably due to having the GTX560. So the next logical test was: how much would the GTX560 consume alone. For that, I fired my trusty old ATI Tool and put the 3D window on. GPU usage immediately jumped to 99-100% (while CPU usage remained at nearly zero) and system power draw shot up to 250-270W or so. Oi! That's quite a jump! It means the GTX560 really was using close to 150W of power (on the wall side-of-things, at least.) The temperature of the GPU also shot up pretty quickly from 30-31°C right into the low-50's Celsius and continued climbing – all this in a pretty cool room temperature of 19°C. I then stopped the ATI Tool 3D test to see how quickly the GPU temperature would fall (as part of helping me evaluate cooler performance.) After this, I decided to try the OCCT GPU test. I hit the “On” button to start the test and, got the fuzzy-looking 3D windows. After a few moments… *pft*… PC screen went blank and all fans shut off – the entire PC shut down.

    Did I kill it already? And what exactly? – The PSU or the GPU.
    Nervously, I cycled power on the back of the PSU and then hit the PC power button again. But she wasn't dead at all, Jim! Got normal picture on the screen and PC proceeded to boot to Windows just fine. PSU voltages were same as before too.
    What?! So I didn't kill anything? Time for another round then.
    This time, I fired up OCCT and decided to try the “PSU test”, which I figured would be a CPU + GPU test. As soon as I tried to start the test - *pft*… same thing: the PSU (gracefully) shut down again. I think my repaired PSU's a wimp!

    That said, I was curious to see if the same would happen if I fired up some games (GTA V, Mirror's Edge, and etc.). Moreover, I wanted to see if the GPU was OK. I figured any issues with the GPU will typically show artifacts. However, there were no artifacts at all on any of the games. Since I was only running on a regular 5:4 19” LCD monitor and limited to 1280x1024 resolution, I noticed in MSI Afterburner that my GPU wasn't getting stressed a whole lot on these games. My Kill-A-Watt seemed to agree as well, as I was hardly hitting over 200W of power draw from the wall. So I started increasing the graphics settings in the games. This made the power consumption go up, first to 220W, as I increased graphics details… then 230W … then 250W… until I couldn't increase anything further (particularly in GTA V due to the 1 GB VRAM limit). Meanwhile, the CPU was nearly maxed out in most games I tried. This unraveled something I was really hoping wouldn't happen: my CPU appeared to be a bottleneck in the system.

    Either way, I couldn't really make the Enermax PSU shut down in any of the games I tried. I noticed that it did run somewhat warmer than before, but still nowhere near hot or even “too warm”. Voltages on all the main rails were also rock-stable and showing good values on the higher side of things.

    So I tried OCCT PSU test a few more times. Each time the PC/PSU simply shut down. No fireworks or anything dramatic like that. I suppose Enermax did a decent job with the primary-side protection (as I am guessing that's where this PSU is running into issues, probably due to the much lower input voltage without APFC.)

    Well, I couldn't have the PC running this way. So I decided to do another PSU swap: this time, I used my recapped Antec EarthWatts EA-500. In fact, when I bought the Antec PSU a few years ago as well, I specifically bought it for the GTX560 Ti, as I didn't have any other PSUs at the time with two 6-pin PCI-E power plugs. So perhaps this PSU really was just “meant to be” paired with this PC?

    As I was a lot more confident in the Antec PSU, I put a tiny bit more work into the system cable management again, which resulted in this:

    Yes, that 7V-mod kludge for the rear fan is still there with the Ethernet wires plugged into a floppy connector. But apart from that, everything else is plugged in properly. I even re-rerouted and tidied-up the front panel cables a bit. Of course, this being a non-modular PSU, there's always going to be that mess of cables in the HDD cage area. But again, I'm not after building a great-looking system. So all of the cable organization I did was purely for fun.

    That aside, how did the Antec PSU do with the same set of tests as the Enermax PSU?
    Well, for starters, it did NOT shut down when I tried to do the OCCT PSU test. And in terms of power draw, the Antec drew only about 5-10 Watts higher from the wall than the Enermax – at least at the same tests that I could run with the Enermax where it didn't shut down. This seems to make sense, as the APFC circuit in the Antec should actually make the PSU slightly more inefficient. But where I lost a little bit of power, I gained in near unity PFC (which I'm sure the power company will appreciate). And on the OCCT PSU test, the power draw was somewhere around 340-350 Watts, IIRC – right what I expected it to be with that CPU and GPU (and the silly hot-running 780i-SLI chipset.)
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Sacon_FZ
    replied
    Re: Post your system.......

    System Specs:


    AMD Phenom II X4 955@3.4 GHz

    AsRock 870Extreme3 AM3 motherboard

    Galaxy GTX 560 mini

    6GB DDR3-1333

    FSP Aurum CM 550w (all jap caps)


    1x Toshiba 1TB HDD
    1x Seagate 500GB HDD
    1x Western Digital 250GB HDD


    6x Rifle bearing case fans with white LEDs

    Leave a comment:


  • RJARRRPCGP
    replied
    Re: Post your system.......

    I have a hunch that the CPU watts during max. CPU load jumps extremely sharply at 3.3 with at least 1.39 V of Vcore in CPU-Z, IIRC.

    (At least the batch I tested! It definitely didn't look like I won the silicon lottery!) (Otherwise, I wouldn't expect 3.3 Ghz to be so hard to keep stable!)

    And as a result, my FX8350 probably used less watts than my Core 2 Quad Q6600, while decimating my Core 2 Quad Q6600 at 3.3 with the x.264 benchmark! (And the FX decimated it at stock frequency, even though a higher frequency.)
    Last edited by RJARRRPCGP; 03-20-2019, 03:09 PM.

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  • TechGeek
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    Re: Post your system.......

    momaka: could you post a photo of the BSOD?

    (sheer curiosity)

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  • RJARRRPCGP
    replied
    Re: Post your system.......

    The regular OCCT test, (not using Linpack) is a joke in my experience, IIRC, it would run for an hour and pass, but the Linpack test still failed.

    And my Q6600 was one of the worst ones, (a 2008 production run) the VID was 1.3250V and was finicky at only 367 Mhz FSB!
    Last edited by RJARRRPCGP; 03-18-2019, 10:35 PM.

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  • momaka
    replied
    Re: Post your system.......

    Originally posted by RJARRRPCGP View Post
    I suspect that 3.0 Ghz only requires default Vcore (but could require a bump to compensate for the Vdroop)
    ...
    (I have a hunch that you're scared to even get it to 3.0, much less 3.6, LOL! (3.6 is not for the faint of heart with a Kentsfield!)
    Actually, it's funny that you mentioned this.

    The above post was actually typed a couple of weeks ago, but I didn't get to posting it until now, as I hadn't gotten the pictures organized yet.

    The truth is, I've actually had the CPU OCed to 3 GHz for about 2 or 3 weeks now. And not only did I not use default Vcore, but I under-volted it again.
    First time, I tried only 1.16875V (just 6.25 mV higher!) and she POSTed! Unfortunately, that was all - it crashed as soon as I got to the Login screen (it did manage to load Windows, though.)
    So I tried two notches higher: 1.18125V. That got me into Windows OK, but as soon as I tried to open anything - BSOD.
    So I tried again two notches higher: 1.19375V. This time, no problems running anything I wanted on the desktop. So I tried OCCT. After not even 5 seconds of running that, OCCT played that "errors detected" sound. So I guess she still wasn't stable enough.
    Two notches higher again for 1.20625V CPU core... OCCT ran for about 10 minutes without errors and then error-ed. Funny, because at this point, I could play most games without crashing. We're getting closer!
    Then I was lik, oh what the hell, we are still under 1.3V core! (All those significant digits on the CPU V_core made me feel as if I am inputing some astronomically-high value... when in fact, I wasn't at all.) Thus, I gave it 1.225V V_core this time - seemed like a nice "even" number. That did it! She was stable in OCCT CPU test and OCCT LinPack CPU test. But just for a good measure, I bumped the CPU V_core up one more notch to 1.23125V. And now we were in business - no crashes in OCCT or games even after several 2-4 hour-long sessions in Fortnite, CS:GO, and a few older games like Mirror's Edge and Test Drive Unlimited. The only crashes I got (and I think I have this ruled out... but still verifying) is from the GPU dropping out at stock clocks, which I mentioned in that link I posted in my previous post above.

    Anyways... long story short: CPU @ 3 GHz (1333 MHz FSB) and 1.23125V core is stable all day long.

    But how did the increased V_core affect the temperature? Well, that Dell cooler certainly seems to be doing a decent job. With the same 19-20°C ambient room temperature, Intel LinPack test did not push it higher than 60°C. Most of the time, things peaked at 59°C solid every time. Before you say that's too much, worth noting here is that this is the highest temperature reading I took from OCCT monitors. That is, my OCCT had several CPU temperatures: CPU Core, CPU, CPU Core #0, CPU Core #1, CPU Core #2, CPU Core #3. Of these, "CPU" was some temperature I couldn't quite figure... but it was always in the high 40's regardless of load (perhaps my MCP/chipset/NB?), so I disregarded it. Meanwhile, CPU Core #0 and 1 always had the highest temperatures and were about 5-10°C hotter than cores 2 and 3. (Don't ask why. I haven't a clue either. ) And "CPU Core" temperature was just the average of CPU cores #0-3. Thus, I decided to take the "worst case" temperature, which was either CPU Core #0 or 1, and hence the 60°C max figure above. I suppose I did a decent job with that CPU fan curve.

    Originally posted by RJARRRPCGP View Post
    You shouldn't get a bus/interconnect error report at 3.0 and FSB at 333 Mhz, with the FSB-to-RAM ratio set to 1:1.
    With the 6 GB RAM above, FSB-to-RAM wasn't 1:1, since I had it running @ 800 MHz single channel... so that's @ 2T command rate, naturally.

    Originally posted by RJARRRPCGP View Post
    (That usually starts occurring at around 360 Mhz FSB and when that happens, you then need to bump the FSB termination voltage to at least 1.3 V or closer to that, but that's if you want the cores to 3.3 Ghz or 3.2 Ghz and the Kentsfield is known for sucking about 240 W for the CPU alone at 3.2 and 3.3 and you'll at that point need 1.4 V for the Vcore or 1.39 V.)
    Yeah, no worries, I'm not planning to push it that high... even though this board probably really can, as it's "enthusiast-level" according to the advertising brochures. (It really is, though - it has tweaks for just about every voltage and clock one could wish for.)

    That said, I'm pretty sure even these old 65 nm Kentsfield CPUs can't and won't draw 240 Watts. Intel gives the Q6600 a "worst case" maximum power draw of about 150 Watts. At 3 GHz, I can imagine that climbing somewhere up to 160-170 Watts. In fact, I was able to see this with my Kill-A-Watt meter: @ 3 GHz, the PC drew about 15-20 Watts more power from the wall doing the same Intel LinPack tests. With PSU inefficiencies, that probably translates to 10-15W higher from the CPU. At 3.6 Ghz, the jump in worst case maximum power may increase sharply... but I still doubt it would go past 200 Watts. Most likely 180-190W tops. 240W? - Noouuu. At that power level, the CPU will probably solder itself to the socket pins.

    Originally posted by RJARRRPCGP View Post
    (And don't even count on your CPU booting the BIOS at 3.6, definitely zero guarantees for 3.6 with a 65nm Core 2!)
    Actually, it's even more funny that you mention this now.

    When I got the motherboard from eBay, I forgot to remove its battery and reset CMOS settings. So when I assembled the mobo+CPU+RAM+PSU on my bench and hit power, the CPU fan was running at full blast all the time. So I played around in the BIOS with that and set my temperature curves, thinking this should cure it. -Nope! CPU cooler fan was still running at full blast. I checked the temperature then... and sure enough, the CPU was already running at 65C just sitting in BIOS. I turned off power and inspected my CPU cooler... particularly my ghetto mounting with the wooden thumb screws - were they not holding the cooler on properly? After thorough inspection, I determined that wasn't the problem. I then started thinking more: perhaps it's the cheap thermal compound I used? (Some eBay 30 gram tube for under $3 shipped. Makes me wonder sometimes if it even is thermal compound! ... but it really is, though - I've been using it on large chips with heatspreaders and low-power GPUs for a few years now, and it's never let me down.) But that didn't make sense either, as 105W TDP CPU with 150W max dissipation isn't something this thermal compound hasn't handled before (*looks at Pentium D830 CPU on shelf* ) I then started checking more things in BIOS and eventually found this: the FSB was set to 1600 MHz, making the CPU core clock @ 3.6 Ghz!!! Well, DUH, no wonder why that CPU fan was running full blast. From stock 2.4 GHz to 3.6 Ghz - that's some serious OC there! I'm surprised it even POSTed every time without any issues.

    Folks, this is why you *always* reset the CMOS/BIOS settings on used motherboards. Otherwise, you never know who did what before you and what kind of bizarre settings could be left behind. As mentioned, generally I always pull the CMOS battery. But how I forgot this time, I don't know.

    So there you go RJARRRPCGP... I did have that Q6600 running at 3.6 GHz for a very brief while. On that note, I wonder if that's what made the "PSU blow up" on the previous owner. Perhaps he/she tried to OC their CPU and were using a crappy no-name PSU that gave up the ghosts? Ah, who knows.

    At least none of that can happen with me, as I mostly use high-quality recapped OEM PSUs. Mostly

    Originally posted by RJARRRPCGP View Post
    (If Linpack fails, it usually means not enough Vcore) (An "IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL" BSOD when running Linpack, is most likely not enough Vcore)
    Yup, figured just as much when I was playing with my V_core values. I didn't get any BSODs with OCCT, though - just the "errors detected" sound and OCCT crashing. Lucky me?

    Originally posted by RJARRRPCGP View Post
    Linpack sucks for checking bus instability, you need to use Prime95 and select blend.
    Interesting. Thanks for the info!

    I am indeed running into some instability issues that only happen when watching YouTube? I still haven't verified that fully, though, as I've been using the PC for games ever since I built it in mid-January. Funny enough, the CPU never crashes under full load or in games. Only with YouTube, it seems. Perhaps I need to try some regular MP4/MKV movies as well.

    What's weird is that before a crash in YouTube, I get looping sound, followed by a BSOD with no error code whatsoever.

    And what's even more weird is that I get the same looping sound in videos on another PC (1st gen AMD Phenom X4 9150e) that uses the same RAM (Corsair XMS 2 GB modules, 5-5-5-18, 1.8V, ver:4.7). So I am actually suspecting foul play with the RAM here. All of these Corsair RAM modules came from the recycle bin of a previous job, as I mentioned. What are the chances more than one of them is bad? The interesting thing is that the AMD PC mentioned above does not crash. Instead, the video continues to play after the short 0.5 to 1 second sound looping. But it happens completely randomly in time and never at the same spots in a given video.

    So with that said, I still have a bit of troubleshooting to do with that EVGA 780i-SLI PC. I already tried a different video card just for fun - a Radeon HD3870 - and that got rid of the GPU-related problems I was having with the GT430. But I reverted back to the GT430, as it's actually more powerful in modern games than the HD3870. Part of this is due to the 1 GB of RAM on it, which most modern games will take as the minimum.

    Anyways, more updates to follow. I just did a few upgrades and I am still testing them.
    Last edited by momaka; 03-18-2019, 09:47 PM.

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  • momaka
    replied
    Re: Post your system.......

    Originally posted by BigTroll View Post
    I like the case looks like you had alot of fun building it!
    I did! - In all of the 60 or so minutes it took me. Most of that went towards making the wooden thumb screws for the CPU HS. Otherwise, the OS install went pretty quickly to... Windows 7 Pro, by the way (as I had a COA sticker with that from another PC).
    What took me a lot more time was playing with the silly NB cooling - trying all the fans mentioned above and whatnot. I'm still not happy with the results of what's there currently, but it's "passable" for now.

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  • RJARRRPCGP
    replied
    Re: Post your system.......

    I suspect that 3.0 Ghz only requires default Vcore (but could require a bump to compensate for the Vdroop) I'm spoiled by my Asus socket 775 motherboards, for having CPU load line calibration, which keeps the Vcore as steady as possible and then manually set the Vcore to the listed VID in Real Temp. (or Core Temp)

    You shouldn't get a bus/interconnect error report at 3.0 and FSB at 333 Mhz, with the FSB-to-RAM ratio set to 1:1.

    (That usually starts occurring at around 360 Mhz FSB and when that happens, you then need to bump the FSB termination voltage to at least 1.3 V or closer to that, but that's if you want the cores to 3.3 Ghz or 3.2 Ghz and the Kentsfield is known for sucking about 240 W for the CPU alone at 3.2 and 3.3 and you'll at that point need 1.4 V for the Vcore or 1.39 V.) (Unless you got a better batch that can do 3.2 at less than 1.39 V Vcore)

    (I have a hunch that you're scared to even get it to 3.0, much less 3.6, LOL! (3.6 is not for the faint of heart with a Kentsfield!)

    (And don't even count on your CPU booting the BIOS at 3.6, definitely zero guarantees for 3.6 with a 65nm Core 2!)

    I also have a hunch that you need a bigger heatsink, if not a liquid cooler for 3.2+ in a warm room...

    (If Linpack fails, it usually means not enough Vcore) (An "IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL" BSOD when running Linpack, is most likely not enough Vcore)

    (And a bus error-related BSOD can also strangely occur, with high temps during the OC)

    (A bus error is a machine check exception, it will appear as a "***STOP:0x00000124" BSOD (WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR) ) (When running blend Prime95)

    Linpack sucks for checking bus instability, you need to use Prime95 and select blend.
    Last edited by RJARRRPCGP; 03-18-2019, 03:46 PM.

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