Re: Windows 10 SSD Migration and Upgrade
FlexLM was easy to hack though.
Windows 10 SSD Migration and Upgrade
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Re: Windows 10 SSD Migration and Upgrade
i would be tempted to try those programs on Linux,
but i stopped when i read AutoCad.
i want NOTHING to do with Autodesk products.
anybody that uses software that insists on a net connection for constant "validation" and probably spying is asking for a world of pain one day.
i refuse to touch anything with the words "cloud" or "online validation" linked to them!
Maybe I'm just too fossy now.Leave a comment:
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Re: Windows 10 SSD Migration and Upgrade
That aside using RAID5 for SSD's is unwise because most are too slow so they will bottleneck the SSD with their XOR calculations...
YupLeave a comment:
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Re: Windows 10 SSD Migration and Upgrade
i would be tempted to try those programs on Linux,
but i stopped when i read AutoCad.
i want NOTHING to do with Autodesk products.
anybody that uses software that insists on a net connection for constant "validation" and probably spying is asking for a world of pain one day.
i refuse to touch anything with the words "cloud" or "online validation" linked to them!Leave a comment:
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Re: Windows 10 SSD Migration and Upgrade
Backups aren't backups if they are not tested.
It proves if you don't know how to restore from it that it's not the ideal/correct solution.
I would not use RAID 5 for an OS, RAID 1 if anything.
Or use a single SSD and do a full disk backup to another SSD or RAID 1 and backup to a single SSD.Leave a comment:
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Re: Windows 10 SSD Migration and Upgrade
Here are notes on doing a storage driver switch on Windows 10, I have tried it with Server 2016 successfully:
Code:Change IDE, AHCI, RAID driver: Open Admin command prompt: bcdedit /set {current} safeboot minimal Restart to BIOS and set to AHCI Restart. Windows will boot into safe mode and will update the driver. Open Admin command prompt: bcdedit /deletevalue {current} safeboot Restart to boot Windows Normally.
You can reinstall and it should activate automatically when you go online.
I have my Windows 10 license linked to my Microsoft account. So does this mean I can reinstall Windows, skip the product key, log into my Microsoft account, and then it should be activated? If so that makes my life a lot easier.
Disable System Restore, found in the classic control panel. And IIRC, it probably will get re-enabled after a Windows 10 update. So just repeat the same thing to clear it and don't forget to at least use the built-in disk cleanup to remove previous versions of Windows, which usually just means previous builds!
Additionally, Windows 10 seems to sometimes randomly re-enable System Restore!
Sound card from the early-2000s? I would guess a SoundBlaster Live! 5.1 or the like. Most likely an Emu 10K1.
I don't think it was until the mid-2000s, before the non-Emu 10K ones started flooding the market with possibly bullshit advertising as well...
It's a Creative Soundblaster Live SB0060. Could very well be mid-2000's, I have no idea. All I know is that it is old. I really like this card. The 5.25" bay panel with the 6.35mm audio jacks and volume knobs are very convenient to use.
That's why stj mentioned Windows 7 instead of only Linux. The "switch to Linux" people also annoy me for the same reason. There are a lot of people who think that the only programs that don't run on Linux are Photoshop and games. (Strangely, there aren't a lot of people who say that Gimp is equivalent to Photoshop.)
I agree about the switch to Linux statement. As much as the Linux fanboys hate to admit it, there are many programs that just will not run on Linux. If they do, it isn't very smoothly. I realize Altium designer and Solidworks/SolidCam are not requirements for the majority of people, but they are for me. More the reason that I will be sticking with Windows 10. (I also happen to like the full-screen start menu page)Leave a comment:
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Re: Windows 10 SSD Migration and Upgrade
I have a laptop running Linux and I would never try and suffer through it on my main workstation. Let me know once you can install Solidworks and SolidCam and all of the required drivers on Linux and have them function properly. Or any other programs such as Altium Designer, AutoCad, Sketchup.Leave a comment:
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Re: Windows 10 SSD Migration and Upgrade
Hey guys, looking to upgrade my Windows 10 system drive among a few other things and have a few questions for you guys.
So my system is getting a little tired out and needs a couple upgrades. The motherboard is an ASUS M5A99FX Pro R2.0 with an AMD FX-8350 CPU and 16GB of DDR3 memory. The motherboard has... heh... been hit by lightning before.Windows 10 is running on a 128GB Sandisk SSD which is about 5GB from being full at all times. I have 2 RAID 1 Arrays - one 1TB and one 2TB. So a total of 4 data hard drives. I have all of my programs minus firefox on the 1TB array. So that means it is basically just Windows hogging my SSD. The motherboard has 5 SATA ports and 2 "special" SATA ports that are only usable for data drives. You can't use them for RAID and you can't boot from them. So I have my DVD drive plugged into one of them.
My plan is to buy 2 more 128GB SSD's and set them up with the other SSD as RAID 5 and put Windows 10 on it. That will give me 256GB of space and some redundancy so if a drive kicks off I don't have to reinstall windows and set everything back up. Doing this will mean I have to buy a RAID card and move one array to the card. I was looking at buying this IOCrest card. https://www.amazon.ca/IOCrest-SI-PEX...B3%2Braid&th=1
To do this I will have to either clone Windows to another drive, set up my SSD array, then clone windows to it. Or, make and image of Windows, set up my SSD array, then restore the image to the array. Does anyone know how kindly Windows 10 takes to this kind of thing?
I will also have to find a way to migrate my 2TB array to the new RAID card. I don't believe my current RAID controller allows an array to be set up without losing all of the data on the drives so I'm not sure how to deal with that. I could probably copy all the data to about 7 other drives I have and it would possibly fit, but that's a pain in the neck. So if anyone has any tips or tricks about how to do this easier it would be appreciated.
So yeah, any feedback, tips, or criticism are welcome.
Here's the story of the lightning "incident" if anyone's interested.
I have my tower and monitors plugged into the surge outlets of a dead APC UPS and my ethernet runs through the surge protector too. Well there was a pretty nasty storm outside so naturally I was using the computer. Long story short, there was a flash of lightning and thunder so loud the windows rattled. The moment the lightning and thunder hit, the power went out and I heard a small explosion inside my case. Sounded like about 10 fuses popping at once. I waited for the power to come back on and tried booting her up but just a black screen. After about 10 attempts I saw the BIOS screen flash and then it went out and the motherboard spit out a beep code. At this point I was slightly frustrated and smacked the case "quite firmly". Tried powering on a few more times and finally it booted. I was in the middle of watching a youtube video so I loaded it back up and put my headphones on. The only sound that came out was a steady popping. Didn't matter whether the system was trying to play sounds or not. It was then I realized that my desktop speakers were plugged directly into the mains and a surge must've traveled through the speakers and into the onboard audio on the motherboard through the audio wire. So I installed an old soundblaster card from the early 2000's and it's been working great ever since. I actually prefer this old card because it has the panel that fits in a 5.25" bay with all the different audio connections and volume ports on it. It is a beige panel in a black case though. Adds contrast
Additionally, Windows 10 seems to sometimes randomly re-enable System Restore!
Sound card from the early-2000s? I would guess a SoundBlaster Live! 5.1 or the like. Most likely an Emu 10K1.
I don't think it was until the mid-2000s, before the non-Emu 10K ones started flooding the market with possibly bullshit advertising as well...Last edited by RJARRRPCGP; 10-15-2017, 04:06 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Windows 10 SSD Migration and Upgrade
x 2. I am running Crucial MX300 and 850 pro's on a few linux distros and don't look back. The only one single thing I still need windows 7 is for the remote control / programming of an alarm system.Leave a comment:
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Re: Windows 10 SSD Migration and Upgrade
RAID with consumer grade SSDs is not the best idea. Excessive writes and a shortened lifespan. Are you backing up ?Leave a comment:
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Re: Windows 10 SSD Migration and Upgrade
Here are notes on doing a storage driver switch on Windows 10, I have tried it with Server 2016 successfully:
Code:Change IDE, AHCI, RAID driver: Open Admin command prompt: bcdedit /set {current} safeboot minimal Restart to BIOS and set to AHCI Restart. Windows will boot into safe mode and will update the driver. Open Admin command prompt: bcdedit /deletevalue {current} safeboot Restart to boot Windows Normally.
You can reinstall and it should activate automatically when you go online.Leave a comment:
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Re: Windows 10 SSD Migration and Upgrade
And to do with disk usage, my drive light flicks once every 20 seconds. That seems quite acceptable to me.
Once again was just looking for advice for the easiest way to move my partitions and arrays. I don't plan on buying a new system any time soon.Last edited by canadaboy25; 10-15-2017, 12:49 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Windows 10 SSD Migration and Upgrade
you should start by upgrading to Linux and/or windows7
the spyware indexer in win10 is probably thrashing the life out of that drive.Leave a comment:
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Re: Windows 10 SSD Migration and Upgrade
Just buy a Samsung 850 EVO and be done with it.
It's not like you Frankenstein build will be more reliable or perform even close to it.Leave a comment:
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Windows 10 SSD Migration and Upgrade
Hey guys, looking to upgrade my Windows 10 system drive among a few other things and have a few questions for you guys.
So my system is getting a little tired out and needs a couple upgrades. The motherboard is an ASUS M5A99FX Pro R2.0 with an AMD FX-8350 CPU and 16GB of DDR3 memory. The motherboard has... heh... been hit by lightning before.Windows 10 is running on a 128GB Sandisk SSD which is about 5GB from being full at all times. I have 2 RAID 1 Arrays - one 1TB and one 2TB. So a total of 4 data hard drives. I have all of my programs minus firefox on the 1TB array. So that means it is basically just Windows hogging my SSD. The motherboard has 5 SATA ports and 2 "special" SATA ports that are only usable for data drives. You can't use them for RAID and you can't boot from them. So I have my DVD drive plugged into one of them.
My plan is to buy 2 more 128GB SSD's and set them up with the other SSD as RAID 5 and put Windows 10 on it. That will give me 256GB of space and some redundancy so if a drive kicks off I don't have to reinstall windows and set everything back up. Doing this will mean I have to buy a RAID card and move one array to the card. I was looking at buying this IOCrest card. https://www.amazon.ca/IOCrest-SI-PEX...B3%2Braid&th=1
To do this I will have to either clone Windows to another drive, set up my SSD array, then clone windows to it. Or, make and image of Windows, set up my SSD array, then restore the image to the array. Does anyone know how kindly Windows 10 takes to this kind of thing?
I will also have to find a way to migrate my 2TB array to the new RAID card. I don't believe my current RAID controller allows an array to be set up without losing all of the data on the drives so I'm not sure how to deal with that. I could probably copy all the data to about 7 other drives I have and it would possibly fit, but that's a pain in the neck. So if anyone has any tips or tricks about how to do this easier it would be appreciated.
So yeah, any feedback, tips, or criticism are welcome.
Here's the story of the lightning "incident" if anyone's interested.
I have my tower and monitors plugged into the surge outlets of a dead APC UPS and my ethernet runs through the surge protector too. Well there was a pretty nasty storm outside so naturally I was using the computer. Long story short, there was a flash of lightning and thunder so loud the windows rattled. The moment the lightning and thunder hit, the power went out and I heard a small explosion inside my case. Sounded like about 10 fuses popping at once. I waited for the power to come back on and tried booting her up but just a black screen. After about 10 attempts I saw the BIOS screen flash and then it went out and the motherboard spit out a beep code. At this point I was slightly frustrated and smacked the case "quite firmly". Tried powering on a few more times and finally it booted. I was in the middle of watching a youtube video so I loaded it back up and put my headphones on. The only sound that came out was a steady popping. Didn't matter whether the system was trying to play sounds or not. It was then I realized that my desktop speakers were plugged directly into the mains and a surge must've traveled through the speakers and into the onboard audio on the motherboard through the audio wire. So I installed an old soundblaster card from the early 2000's and it's been working great ever since. I actually prefer this old card because it has the panel that fits in a 5.25" bay with all the different audio connections and volume ports on it. It is a beige panel in a black case though. Adds contrast
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by japlyticIn a Beelink GTR mini PC, mine has an Intel AX200NGW WLAN module.
Tried (only with keyboard/mouse connected):- BIOS + database update
- Using latest Windows 11 image built with official image creation tool
- Previous setup version for Windows 11 installer
- Replacing SSD without a slow block (the previous SSD had a slow block with access time > 500 mS)
- TPM reset (worked to the point where DRIVER_PNP_WATCHDOG error message is displayed briefly after the point of stalling)
- Disabling power to WLAN and LAN modules in BIOS (Advanced > AMD PBS > PCI Express Configuration)
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Channel: General Computer & Tech Discussion
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Hello Guys,
got an Acer here with the problem that when i'm installing windows it just crashes (turns off) and not going back on as soon as i press the power button.
I've tried it with different sticks and windows versions and also with windows 10 and 11 but it's the same problem.
The only difference is that when i want to install windows 11 it crashes during the installation screen when "getting files ready for installation" at 25% - 30% progress and
when i install windows 10 it goes trough until the restart and at "getting devices ready" it... - Loading...
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