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    Re: The ghetto mod thread

    Is there any reason to not use +24V? Is it used for something except the proprietary Display, powered by Graphics card??

    PS: I have such a thing still here standing around somehow...

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      Re: The ghetto mod thread

      If I remember right it is used for Firewire as well.
      The issue with this additional voltage is that it has to be always present, much like the +5VSB of ATX but at +24V (or +28V some sources say). You can actually use the +5VSB here, the Power Mac works fine, but you won't be able to power on the Apple display or a Firewire device.
      Using any power brick works fine, I would say something between 19V and 30V should be OK. Just make sure current rating is sufficient for what you'll be using. I used this specific laptop power brick because that's what I had at that time.
      Also the CCFL tube of the Apple display has some cold start issue. Sometimes it will flicker or just stay dim if it hasn't been powered on for a few hours. Waiting for it to warm up or putting it into sleep and waking it up is sufficient to fix the issue. I guess it's a combination of a lower voltage for the inverter and an old CCFL tube.
      OpenBoardView — https://github.com/OpenBoardView/OpenBoardView

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        Re: The ghetto mod thread

        I INTRODUCE YOU ALL TOO: THE SPAGHETTO
        MY 600$ MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE BEATER

        I DID 0 CABLE MANAGEMENT, THREW SUBWOOFERS IN WITH A 680 CCA LED ACID BATTERY WITH A FAILING ALTERNATOR. ENJOY THE SHITSHOW PICTURES:




        I DIDN'T HAVE ENOUGH WIRE TO GO FROM THE SUBWOOFERS TO THE PROPER CONNECTORS, SO I JUST RAN THEM FROM THE SIDE OF THE SUBWOOFERS THE AMP




        (For those who are concerned, the setup's getting removed in a week when I put the car in storage, I was just bored and thought to myself one day, "What can I do inside of an hour to make this a little more fun?")
        Popcorn.

        Comment


          Re: The ghetto mod thread

          most installs i used to see looked a lot like that!

          it's the skill level of 17year olds with no tools.

          Comment


            Re: The ghetto mod thread

            Originally posted by stj View Post
            most installs i used to see looked a lot like that!

            it's the skill level of 17year olds with no tools.
            Oh you should have seen my first car which was given to me when i was 14! Oh man I put a Powerbass ASA1200.2X, with the amplifier that is now running these subs (Hifonics X1200.4). It had a stock alt, big 3, and 540 CCA led acid. 4 gauge wire running both the amplifiers. Since voltages went routinely below 11, it was always distorted LOL. Oh yeah, and it was a spaghetti fest.

            The real reason I did this is as I said, 1 hour, was bored. Oh yeah, and the ground cable? Has 1" of play before it gets tugged, and the box has nothing securing it
            Popcorn.

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              Re: The ghetto mod thread

              speaker boxes are always secured by a combination of magnet weight and gravity - a powerfull combination!

              there is no where for it to go after you throw a load of crap in the back with it anyway!!

              Comment


                Re: The ghetto mod thread

                Lol nice ghettomod.

                Good enough for a temporary audio system (and also blowing up your amp if the speaker wires pull out too much and short out. )

                What year is your Eclipse, by the way? A friends of mine in high school had a '95, IIRC. We had a lot of fun with that car. Used to call the e-brake in it a "passenger emergency brake"

                On that note, the whole car was a piece of ghetto crap. For one thing, the gas tank had a leak somewhere and you could smell gasoline in the car all the time. It was even worse when there were three of us sharing a ride, because whoever got the back would always get nauseous from the fumes. I think the previous owner(s) or repair shop probably did a fuel pump replacement, and instead of dropping the gas tank to take out the pump, they cut a hatch under the rear seat to get access to the gas tank. Either that, or there was a hatch that had poor seals. And to make things even worse, my friend always loved to smoke in the car.

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                  Re: The ghetto mod thread

                  Originally posted by momaka View Post
                  Lol nice ghettomod.

                  Good enough for a temporary audio system (and also blowing up your amp if the speaker wires pull out too much and short out. )

                  What year is your Eclipse, by the way? A friends of mine in high school had a '95, IIRC. We had a lot of fun with that car. Used to call the e-brake in it a "passenger emergency brake"

                  On that note, the whole car was a piece of ghetto crap. For one thing, the gas tank had a leak somewhere and you could smell gasoline in the car all the time. It was even worse when there were three of us sharing a ride, because whoever got the back would always get nauseous from the fumes. I think the previous owner(s) or repair shop probably did a fuel pump replacement, and instead of dropping the gas tank to take out the pump, they cut a hatch under the rear seat to get access to the gas tank. Either that, or there was a hatch that had poor seals. And to make things even worse, my friend always loved to smoke in the car.
                  Oh what a story, I've got one about this car as well.

                  So this car was bought from a local shop/dealer. Mechanic's lien, woman didn't wanna pay for the repairs, I paid the 600$ bill and the car was mine. They told me it had new brakes, it did not. They told me the AC compressor was bad, it was not. Ground cable to ac compressor clutch was fucked, went to scrapyard and bought a used compressor guaranteed working for less than a clutch coil cost, was only 4 bolts to replace and I had the machine to do it at the shop. Took me less than an hour to change the compressor and wiring, was much easier that way.

                  So I noticed after awhile of driving this thing, I couldn't fucking see at night. What was wrong? Some dumbfuck who changed the headlights before me broke the goddamn clip that holds the bulbs into the lenses, fucker. However, I tightened the fucking shit out of a screw that held the broken end of the clip in, and it's still holding.

                  Now, it's also got the original rear drums and shoes on it. Yes, they have 180K on them. However, they still work very well and hold the car when I use the E brake in drive (somehow). I know it was driven from florida to NY back and forth for it's whole life until it was sold to an older lady 5 years ago. It was very well kept through both owners, they had the service records (genuine) from years back, all were synthetic oil changes and transmission flushes etc. Very well kept, this fucking thing can peel out very easily.

                  As for the fronts, I got the best rotors and pads Autozone had cause I had a 20% off your entire purchase coupon for them and I didn't feel like spending money. I also put a set of 4 Kenda Kenetica tires on it, very good tires for being cheap.

                  Now, after ALL of that, we have a few OBD codes. One is for the EGR flow insufficient, not worried about that one too much. When the code light is on, it actually runs better than when it's off as it is constantly trying to adjust to fix itself. It's probably either a bad EGR solenoid or a clogged port. Annoying but not that bad to fix, 20$ in parts is the max cost. Second code is bank 1 inefficient. That's cause there's an exhaust leak on the header. Replacing entire exhaust in the spring, engine to rear.

                  Now, it doesn't end there. My reverse lights didn't work for shit, connectors were corroded to shit. Easy fix, if you ever hear of a product called CorrosionX, get it. Amazing stuff, converts corrosion to a conductive material and is electrically safe. Works great on freeing stuck bolts. Even works on electric motors that have been stuck from dirt/corrosion/bearings etc. Shit is miracle juice.

                  Next up is the fucking dashboard, shit looks like a spiders web from cracks, has a cover on it to hide the shame.

                  When I got it, it had some shit stock speakers in it that were fucked from never being replaced, ate a Dual XDM16BT receiver. Replaced them with some Fosgates and was very happy. Now when I was replacing the speakers I noticed something. This car had one of those "amplified" systems in it. Well, it sure as fuck isn't functional any more as they sodomized the plug and ground the radio through the dash panel mounting screw LOL. Don't bother me much, I would've done a more proper job, but I'm putting a 4 channel amp in it, 200A alt, big 3, another set of 12's so 4 12's total, and some more radio upgrades. The 4chan amp will be permanent so that anyone who installs another radio will be able to just hook in some RCA wires and a few power wires with a turn on wire and have some nice, loud and clear sound. With or without subwoofers.

                  So that's about it for The Spaghetto. Until the spring updates, say ciao to it. I've got a Buick that I've FULLY rebuilt as I also got it as a steal, and it's a much much nicer car.

                  Also, it's a 2003, just like my Buick. 2.4L non turbo (yet).
                  Popcorn.

                  Comment


                    Re: The ghetto mod thread

                    A 2003 car with drum brakes? I thought drums were only used on cheap and nasty econoboxes. Even my 88 Camry had 4 wheel discs.

                    Comment


                      Re: The ghetto mod thread

                      ford mustang had drums afaik.

                      Comment


                        Re: The ghetto mod thread

                        Not mine, but I thought this was funny and certainly counts as ghetto!
                        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjgQJ0vxJR0
                        "Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
                        -David VanHorn

                        Comment


                          Re: The ghetto mod thread

                          Oh NO. That terminated Skynet got a ghetto fix!





                          If you look carefully, I routed out the 400V APFC boosted voltage with long inductive wires to four junk 470uF 200V capacitors in series (each of which measure 350uF or less), secured together with hot glue. JEE I wonder how long these caps will last, VIVA la ghetto! (I measured the four capacitors to be a hair under 80uF, so this is much closer to the desired 47uF. Plus best case this should be "good" for 800V though I'd derate to 600V - well above the 400V needed.)

                          I hope this is a bit "less" temporary, I just want less things that are half opened... but this still needs a proper fix.

                          And YES IT'S WORKING NOW, the machine boots up fine once more!
                          Attached Files

                          Comment


                            Re: The ghetto mod thread

                            ^ Oh my!!!
                            The radio/CB dudes will certainly love you for this "invention"!

                            Oh, and you got to take your JEE joke back . (The VIVA one made me chuckle too ).

                            Speaking of the repair... did you install balancing resistors on the caps? If not, be prepared for
                            I would have also only gone with only two of the 200V caps in series if the original cap was rated for 400V. Sure the capacitance would have been much higher, but the APFC circuit would have probably been more than happy with that (and you'd get much longer hold up time).

                            Also, I'm not sure if installing a big (1-3.3 uF) 400V/450V film cap in parallel with the APFC cap would help with some of the high-frequency suppresion, but I did it on my ThermalTake M850W PSU that had a blown APFC cap. I'm hoping the film cap basically makes it easier for the 'lytic APFC filter cap.

                            Anyways, I was just starting to wonder the other day if this thread was dead or if I should post something to revive it, but looks like you beat me to it.... and with a great ghetto fix, too!

                            Comment


                              Re: The ghetto mod thread

                              Nope, no balancing resistors. I was thinking about it but decided against it because I overkilled on the total voltage rating. I tried two at first (actually two ~200uF due to bad cap or just within tolerance) and measured the apfc voltage to exactly 400V across the two. I shut it off right away as likely one of the two caps were slightly overvoltage. With the four caps, only two of the four need to bear the brunt of the 400V so I was thinking that this should be sufficient and not install balancing resistors which would complicate assembly immensely.

                              In that respect only 3 is sufficient (plus I'd probably need to put in balancing resistors), but I had these caps in pairs and I can't think of a reason why I'd only need one at some time. I have more pairs of these caps anyway, unlike 47uF 420V...

                              Another weird note is that I tried measuring the caps before putting this together, just to get a feel for what the total capacitance would be like. Oddly enough each of the two "matched pairs" that I measured - i.e., both JEEs and both VIVAs - capacitance were within 1uF of each other (!) despite the JEEs not equaling the VIVA caps:

                              JEE #1: 350uF
                              JEE #2: 349uF
                              VIVA #1: 330uF
                              VIVA #2: 330uF

                              Note that all four of these caps are labeled 470uF...

                              Comment


                                Re: The ghetto mod thread

                                Originally posted by eccerr0r View Post
                                Nope, no balancing resistors. I was thinking about it but decided against it because I overkilled on the total voltage rating.
                                Ouch.
                                That doesn't matter, though. The caps with the lowest leakage current and/or lowest capacitance will take on most of the voltage. Of course, getting closer to the cap's (actual) voltage rating (which can easily be 10-20% higher than the printed rating on the cap) will make the cap leakage current go up, so that should balance out the voltage somewhat. But you really don't want to rely on that, because when running caps near their maximum voltage, they have a greater chance of arcing-over internally and failing. And once one of the caps fails, now you will have 3 caps sharing that voltage, until the same scenario repeats. And if one of the caps fails open circuit, say goodbye to your APFC section.

                                Originally posted by eccerr0r View Post
                                ... so I was thinking that this should be sufficient and not install balancing resistors which would complicate assembly immensely.
                                Lol, how would balancing resistor complicate assembly?
                                You just solder the same value resistor across the legs of each cap.

                                Originally posted by eccerr0r View Post
                                In that respect only 3 is sufficient (plus I'd probably need to put in balancing resistors), but I had these caps in pairs and I can't think of a reason why I'd only need one at some time.
                                You could use just one - phone charger with huge input cap and thus overkill hold-up time?

                                Originally posted by eccerr0r View Post
                                JEE #1: 350uF
                                JEE #2: 349uF
                                VIVA #1: 330uF
                                VIVA #2: 330uF

                                Note that all four of these caps are labeled 470uF...
                                JEE, that's not surprising!

                                Comment


                                  Re: The ghetto mod thread

                                  atleast we have heard of JEE, i'v bever seen VIVA before!!

                                  Comment


                                    Re: The ghetto mod thread

                                    Originally posted by stj View Post
                                    atleast we have heard of JEE, i'v bever seen VIVA before!!
                                    I believe they're common on Deer PSUs, for the primary... My dreaded Deer DR-250 ATX PSU had those...
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                                    "¡Me encanta "Me Encanta o Enlistarlo con Hilary Farr!" -Mí mismo

                                    "There's nothing more unattractive than a chick smoking a cigarette" -Topcat

                                    "Today's lesson in pissivity comes in the form of a ziplock baggie full of GPU extension brackets & hardware that for the last ~3 years have been on my bench, always in my way, getting moved around constantly....and yesterday I found myself in need of them....and the bastards are now nowhere to be found! Motherfracker!!" -Topcat

                                    "did I see a chair fly? I think I did! Time for popcorn!" -ratdude747

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                                      Re: The ghetto mod thread

                                      Originally posted by momaka View Post
                                      Ouch.
                                      That doesn't matter, though. The caps with the lowest leakage current and/or lowest capacitance will take on most of the voltage. Of course, getting closer to the cap's (actual) voltage rating (which can easily be 10-20% higher than the printed rating on the cap) will make the cap leakage current go up, so that should balance out the voltage somewhat. But you really don't want to rely on that, because when running caps near their maximum voltage, they have a greater chance of arcing-over internally and failing.
                                      I was wondering about that too so I actually measured the leakage at 600V for the 800V stack with my Sencore as 600V is the limit... it actually was in the microamperes or less in leakage!
                                      And once one of the caps fails, now you will have 3 caps sharing that voltage, until the same scenario repeats. And if one of the caps fails open circuit, say goodbye to your APFC section.
                                      So I should be glad I still have APFC working when that initial 47uF cap pretty much failed open when it leaked out all of its electrolyte?
                                      I was also worried about too much capacitance blowing the inrush resistor!
                                      Lol, how would balancing resistor complicate assembly?
                                      You just solder the same value resistor across the legs of each cap.
                                      Note that I had to freehand wire them in series - no PCB - and try to make sure there were no sharp points pointed toward metal edges, with minimal cost (so minimize extra insulation, so the current design has ZERO heatshrink in this whole "design"!). I ended up pointing the capacitors together with a short piece of wire to hook then up in series, and wires going into the middle of the two "stacks". The hot glue made sure they don't twist and short together, plus the wire insulation prevents additional twisting too. Adding the resistors would make it tougher to solder together, it's more stuff to solder.

                                      In any case, this is only temporary, holding over until I can get a proper fix. As I have lots of radio equipment, I know I've got more than enough electrical noise around here...

                                      Comment


                                        Re: The ghetto mod thread

                                        Originally posted by jazzie366 View Post

                                        2003 MY Buick. 2.4L non turbo (yet).
                                        Is it basically a re-badged Pontiac Sunfire?
                                        Last edited by RJARRRPCGP; 01-31-2018, 07:11 PM.
                                        ASRock B550 PG Velocita

                                        Ryzen 9 "Vermeer" 5900X

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                                        Sapphire Nitro+ Radeon RX 6750 XT

                                        eVGA Supernova G3 750W

                                        Western Digital Black SN850 1TB NVMe SSD

                                        Alienware AW3423DWF OLED




                                        "¡Me encanta "Me Encanta o Enlistarlo con Hilary Farr!" -Mí mismo

                                        "There's nothing more unattractive than a chick smoking a cigarette" -Topcat

                                        "Today's lesson in pissivity comes in the form of a ziplock baggie full of GPU extension brackets & hardware that for the last ~3 years have been on my bench, always in my way, getting moved around constantly....and yesterday I found myself in need of them....and the bastards are now nowhere to be found! Motherfracker!!" -Topcat

                                        "did I see a chair fly? I think I did! Time for popcorn!" -ratdude747

                                        Comment


                                          Re: The ghetto mod thread

                                          Originally posted by stj View Post
                                          atleast we have heard of JEE, i'v bever seen VIVA before!!
                                          You're a fairly old-school tech. How could you have not heard of VIVA?
                                          As RJARRRPCGP noted, they were common in early (late 90's to early 2000's) Deer and Allied PSUs. Nowadays, they are nowhere to be found - at least with that name. VIVA caps were pretty awful, so I wouldn't be surprised if they changed names or got bought out by another crap cap brand.

                                          Originally posted by eccerr0r View Post
                                          So I should be glad I still have APFC working when that initial 47uF cap pretty much failed open when it leaked out all of its electrolyte?
                                          Yes, you should.
                                          An APFC boost coil without an output cap is like energizing and de-energizing a relay without a snubber diode - you get massive voltage spikes, and there's no telling what those are going to take out.

                                          Originally posted by eccerr0r View Post
                                          I was also worried about too much capacitance blowing the inrush resistor!
                                          Good point.

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