Conductive Polymer Aluminum Solid Electrolytic Caps.
Collapse
X
-
-
Re: Conductive Polymer Aluminum Solid Electrolytic Caps.
The question then becomes can that be continuous 130 watts or is it peak wattage for a temporary time?Comment
-
Re: Conductive Polymer Aluminum Solid Electrolytic Caps.
Yeah, when I saw the price tag (I've seen this unit before when I was looking into BGA Reballers), I was like oh no. Normally, because I don't necessarily make a lot of money, what I do is just save it slowly up. I'll make sure the bills are paid and we have food and all that. I was putting around 100$ in an envelope every month. Not much, but it can add up. If I fixed PCs and made some extra, I'd put it in.
I saved up enough to buy my wife this fancy Samsung Galaxy 7S or S7 cell phone that way. Because the phone costed so much, it emptied my entire savings. But this month, I just happened to fix a lot of PCs and was able to save 545$ in a good three weeks or so. 27,000$ though? I don't think I'd ever be able to save that much. If I do, something like a house would be on my mind, not a reballer! I really want to try and make one. A good one, with at least 2,000 watt bottom preheater, stuff like that. I'd need to find schematics, PCB layout files, BOMs and the software to control it on the net though because I lack the technical know-how to just make one myself all from scratch.-- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is FullComment
-
Re: Conductive Polymer Aluminum Solid Electrolytic Caps.
Yea, that is what us poor people do, make our own. If you make your own you will know the ins and outs of it. Plus, you will have the fun of being creative and you will do it for a fraction of the price.Comment
-
Re: Conductive Polymer Aluminum Solid Electrolytic Caps.
Yeah. That's what I like about Stj's link there. Even though I have a reliable soldering station that is, in my opinion, well built and serves my needs, I think it would be a great learning experience building the one he linked too. I have other priorities that must take precedence first though, but I want to build that control unit.
I also have a UV LED exposure unit for PCB boards that I've built. I still need to make an enclosure for it. Unfortunately, creativity is not one of my strong suits, nor is working with wood. I planned on making it out of wood first and once I get a good looking / working prototype that I'm happy with, buying some high grade aluminum and going down to one of the local machine shops to have them bend / route / drill / anodize the aluminum.-- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is FullComment
-
Re: Conductive Polymer Aluminum Solid Electrolytic Caps.
Yeah, but I've decided I didn't want to go that route Stj. I want something that resembles this I think:
https://www.labrepco.com/data/catego...-3-17-2015.png
That's a refrigerator, but I want it to be like that. With a door that opens. I want the glass to be special so it filters out the UV light but you can see inside of it. I think I want a tray that slides outs and then you put the board inside. Instead of modding something, I'd like to build it completely from scratch. First wood, then aluminum. I'll have the machine shop do the aluminum stuff for me though.-- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is FullComment
Related Topics
Collapse
-
by eccerr0rAnyone had a solid polymer capacitor fail for whatever reason?
How do they fail? Do they explode, go open, short out, ?
How about for different reasons: forcing excessive ripple current, overheating, voltage too high, reverse voltage?
Just wondering about the causes for a potential shorted solid polymer capacitor... trying to debug a board that has a ~4Ω "short" on a track... it may or may not be a capacitor but was wondering what if it were...-
Channel: General Capacitor Questions & Issues
-
-
I do have several old pc motherboards which i recapped 10 year ago and some of those caps are bulged now.
I would like to upgrade them using solid capacitors. I do use them for testing and helping some alternative operating systems.
I would like to ask if such an upgrade can be done, what should i have in mind when replacing electrolytic by solid caps and if such thing exist, if there are caps list for old motherboards. I would have to figure out what caps needs each motherboard and then prepare a list to try to ask for them on some electronics stores.-
Channel: General Capacitor Questions & Issues
-
-
by Perry BabinI have a situation where a power supply is commonly abused and the 12v supply caps take a beating. They don't commonly fail but they run hot. I was thinking about going from a liquid electrolytic (Panasonic FC and Nichicon HE) to an organic polymer. The values have been 330uF. I typically use a higher-than-needed voltage to get a lower ESR. The supply is operated from 12v.
If not organic polymer, what would be the caps that could take the most abuse?-
Channel: General Capacitor Questions & Issues
-
-
by CartelI will be pulling my crown vic ECU and recapping it. 3 in total, 47uf 16v x2 and a 10uf 63v
I hope they havent puked yet. I was thinking of replacing them with Aluminum - Polymer thru hole caps. probably 47uf 25v and 10uf 80v
They arent cheap. Anyone have any experience with them? Am I wasing my money on premium caps?
Nichicon PLV series
thanks-
Channel: General Capacitor Questions & Issues
-
-
by dragon3xHi, I have some 32 bits computer motherboards that need repair, as they fail to
power on.
Here are some examples :
(N.B. "capacitors" indicated here are electrolytic capacitors located in the onboard
switching supply area).
(N.B. #2 : I could not find a 3300 microF aluminum-polymer with a higher voltage
than 6.3 V.)
1 - Motherboard #1 : this is an Asrock K7VT2 (socket A) that still works well. To put it on test
I replaced capacitors with aluminum-polymer.
3300 microF/6.3 V. x 4 replaced by 3300 microF/6.3 V. (KYOCERA... - Loading...
- No more items.
Comment