Try our new boardview, bios, & schematic search. Over 1.3 million files for download!

Which caps to replace: ECS P4M800Pro-M V1.0A

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Mattz_GT
    replied
    Both the Wurth and the Kemet come up as 8mm round by 8mm tall in the specs, also, I guess lead spacing is another parameter I haven't checked... both 3.5mm - hopefully that is standard for what they were

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    use kemet polymer for the 680's atleast because height matters.

    the thing about OST is if they arent cooked they seem super reliable, i have AT psu's that had working ost's in them.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mattz_GT
    replied
    Examined board closely...
    By CPU, cooking under heatsink, 6x 680uF 4v TMJ, looking closer, the 2 on one side look like they have blown their bungs, glad to see that as now I can be pretty certain I'm looking at the culprits
    Spaced away, 3x 1800uF 6.3V KZJ - I'm guessing they are also CPU VRM side as other versions mix up the use of those and the short ones
    12v side, 4x OST 1500uF 16V

    Rest of the board, MANY OST 1000uF 6.3V, if OST are really bad, then I'm in big trouble, but their positions are probably not as critical
    Now to read some more of the badcaps list

    If I take it from RS, any reason not to go with the Wurth Elektronik at £0.206 ea (pk 5 - 2 packs)
    For the second, Rubycon at £0.223 ea (pk 10) more than I need
    For the 3rd, oh, back to Wurth at £0.165 ea (pk 5)
    And some Panasonic 1000uF 6.3V to cover the last ones - I don't really want to do all the less important ones, well, depends how good at it I get, ah, I DO have another dead board I could practice on

    Leave a comment:


  • stj
    replied
    RS has good price on poly's for the vrm output and panasonic FR for the 12v input.
    gonna get a handling charge for orders under £50 though,
    or CPC has a minimum free delivery limit of £20 but less of a selection of caps

    Leave a comment:


  • Mattz_GT
    replied
    Yeah, guess it's best to do the whole job... this is the board img-9133front-6645fb375eb63958085697.jpg (3105×3015)
    The filling of those positions vary on other versions, with 9 of the short 680 4J instead of 6 and the 3 black ones, so I guess they are all post VRM, while the other 4 are pre-VRM. Don't have as many suppliers in the UK, the big ones seem to be mostly bulk / high minimum order.
    Aliexpress would probably be a bad idea?? I mean, I like the prices but are they going to be what it says they are.
    I suppose I ought to do the RAM VRM ones at the other edge, not sure which is the AGP VRM - maybe it's linear​

    Leave a comment:


  • andrewsawesomr
    replied
    If you're replacing those caps, you should also replace the VRM caps as they are what makes sure that the CPU gets good voltage and has enough current to function properly (see circle in uploaded picture for location of caps recommended to replace, your board might be a little different, but you get the idea). I would order all of the capacitors in one go just in case and only solder in the ones needed, but that's your choice. Let me know the brand and model of the caps if you want recommendations, otherwise, you can always look through the Datasheet Depot and try to find replacements yourself.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	P4M800Pro-MvrmCaps.jpg
Views:	204
Size:	540.3 KB
ID:	3555528

    Leave a comment:


  • Mattz_GT
    started a topic Which caps to replace: ECS P4M800Pro-M V1.0A

    Which caps to replace: ECS P4M800Pro-M V1.0A

    It's feeling like this board has a case of badcaps, instability and reboots - and not wanting to necro a a very old thread, it seems the 680uF 4V are highly suspect.
    I don't really want to blanket recap everything, but maybe the others around that area could do with being changed?

    Equipment: I have a temperature controlled soldering station, read the bit where it says set to 400F, don't think I would have gone that high without reading that.
    Spring plunger solder sucker, and some desolder braid... and a bit of good old leaded 60/40.

    PS. Additional diagnostic, after setting speedstep to minimum and turning off C1E, it did get into Memtest, where I'd never succeeded before, making me pretty sure that unstable power delivery is the problem

Related Topics

Collapse

Working...