All of which are 100uF, 10V. Are they enough of a failure risk to warrant replacement? If so, what should i get as replacements for them? They're 5 or 6 mm in diameter, and 7 or 8 mm tall at the most.
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Re: 13 Teapos on my Mainboard
photos pls -
Re: 13 Teapos on my Mainboard
Those are pics of caps by the top of the RAM slots and by the AC'97 headerAttached FilesComment
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Re: 13 Teapos on my Mainboard
Can you take better pics? These are really blurry and unfocused.
They did however tell me that it's a Gigabyte GA-7N400 Pro 2.
When asking technical questions, less is not more.Comment
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Re: 13 Teapos on my Mainboard
Those are pretty small caps. I would say given their size, there's a low risk of failure. That said, the risk is there.
From the ones I can see in the photo, they are Teapo SS 10v 100uF.
According to the datasheet, that value of cap comes in two sizes: 5x7mm and 6x7mm.
The 5x7mm has 85 mA ripple, and the 6x7 has 100 mA ripple. You want a replacement that has at least that much ripple handling ability.
Something in Nichicon VZ or Chemicon KMG should get the job done.
This only applies to the caps I can see in the photos, which are the SS series. If there are other caps I can't see from other series, their values may be different.
Also...I see a GSC capacitor in the one photo. GSC capacitors are bad news, I'd take a close look at that one as well.
I see lots of Rubycons on the board, those are good. However, I can't make out what the tall VRM caps near the CPU socket are. Take a close look at those, as they tend to be the most stressed capacitors on the board.Comment
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Re: 13 Teapos on my Mainboard
I agree except for KMG and VZ.
Those aren't low ESR and better caps that small don't cost much if anything more.
While any cap -can- fail the 4 & 5 mm caps rarely do and that includes Teapo.
Any 4 & 5 mm caps rated for 85C instead of 105C are more of a concern than small caps of a particular brand name because they tend to start going bad after a few years.
[Except maybe for GSC or OST. Even in small ones I don't trust them around the chipset or RAM. IMHO those are best used for contaminating landfills. - That said, if they are -clearly- not caps that 'work' hard I'll let them ride if there are no other small caps that need replaced. The GCS I can see on your board is in the fan controller for that nearby header. GA likes to slide GSCs in that spot and as they don't 'work' very hard I wouldn't worry about it unless the fan is getting screwy.]
So, unless they are 85C or the board is flaky for no good reason [with otherwise good caps] I don't usually replace them. Sometimes I get a wild hair and do a 100% recap just because it's on the bench anyway.
I handle 6mm this way. [Revision 57 of Bonez's SOP.]
If it's 220uF or more I treat it as I do 8mm and up caps.
If it's less than 220uF I treat it as I do the small caps.
.Mann-Made Global Warming.
- We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
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Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.
- Dr Seuss
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You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
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Re: 13 Teapos on my Mainboard
'k. There's four caps that are all 5 mm diameter 22uF 25V Supacons. I've heard that this brand should be replaced no matter how tiny they are. TopCat's got a 22uF 25V Samxon in his inventory. Is it worth spending the cash to get those replaced when I send the mobo to Topcat?Comment
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Re: 13 Teapos on my Mainboard
Never heard of Supacon. Maybe you mean Su'scon? Those are so-so, if they are in non-critical areas they will survive.A working TV? How boring!Originally posted by PeteS in CAComment
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Re: 13 Teapos on my Mainboard
No, he/she meant Supacon.Attached FilesMann-Made Global Warming.
- We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
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Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.
- Dr Seuss
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You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
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Re: 13 Teapos on my Mainboard
Those really look dubious.A working TV? How boring!Originally posted by PeteS in CAComment
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Re: 13 Teapos on my Mainboard
In this case looks ain't deceiving.
.Mann-Made Global Warming.
- We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
-
Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.
- Dr Seuss
-
You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
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Hi everyone,
I've got a little "problem child": my Dell Latitude 7420 2-in-1, which had a faulty mainboard.
I replaced it, but ever since, the touchscreen no longer works — and honestly, I’m running out of ideas…
In Windows Device Manager, I just see an I2C HID Device with error code 10. Sporadically, the touchscreen is recognized correctly for just a few seconds, but I haven’t been able to determine under which circumstances this happens.
The touchscreen also doesn’t work in UEFI/BIOS, although it’s enabled... -
Hello,
I have an old MASTER TL-240 LED TV. Since it stopped working and it had a DVB-T receiver that is being dismissed in Italy, I've decided to replace the mainboard with a DVB-T2 one.
The original problem was that when switching on the TV, the power LED was transitioning from red to steady blue, without showing video or audio.
After checking some voltages on the power supply board (HKL-240101-B Rev. 1.4, HKL from now on) someone suggested me to replace the mainboard.
Now I have some doubts about how to connect the new mainboard to the old power supply.
First of... -
I have a Vizio M43-C1 stuck in a reboot loop with no backlight.
I've tested all the voltage rails coming out of the power supply and they are "normal" for this model (PS_ON & DIM go high when turned on, BL_ON & 3D_ON are close to zero due to backlight power flowing through the mainboard, 5VSB is 5V, and 12V is 19V, which is apparently normal for this board).
Basically, I get similar results to Garry in this post: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=80346
So, I've ruled out the PSU for now.
The reboot loop... -
Hi everyone,
I'm trying to repair my LG 49UB850V TV (WebOS 1.0, UHD model from 2014).
Mainboard model: EAX65684604
PCB marking: EBT62954607
SPI chip: Winbond W25X20CLNIG Problem description:
Originally, the TV would turn on (backlight and LED OK if I force them on), but it shut down as soon as any input was received from the IR sensor or remote. The backlight and power board were working fine.
After testing and verifying the voltages (DRY ON, PWR ON, 12V/24V rails), I suspected a corrupted SPI firmware. What I tried so far:- I bought another
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Hi
I have a QN65QN90A which was purchased around launch I guess making it about 1.5-2 years old... had been working fine until a few days ago, simply went black and would no longer turn on (at all). No standby light and no typical PSU relay click etc. Absolutely dead.
Pulled it apart without doing much research first, suspecting the power supply as it had a faint buzz (I guess due to the forthcoming found short), investigated PSU for some time and concluded there was no fault that I could spot with the board removed.
Came to learn after a bit more research...
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