BigPete
Senior Member
Last Activity: 11-05-2025, 01:30 PM
Joined: 07-14-2012
Location: Waikato
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That's how I pulled it apart. It's a sealed unit enclosed in a plastic housing with an automatic flap to regulate the temperature. Bent from the factory. It's only at the top though. They're quite big radiators compared to other Heatpump dryers I've repaired.... -
Panasonic Heatpump Dryer Repair
I picked up a Panasonic NH-P70G2, though it would apply to the NH-P80G2, NH-P70G1 and NH-P80G1 models as well, as maybe some other models. This one was coming up with a H86 error. After lots of testing and googling it was an error with one of the thermistors in the condenser area.
The attached French service manuals is incorrect, TH11 is gray and is a 95k thermistor and TH12 is black and is a 35k thermistor.
In my case TH12 was bad. I was able to get a 35k thermistor on AliExpress. It's 6mm in diameter.
Unfortunately the whole machine has to come apart to fix it.
I have... -
Hi all,
Just to follow up on this again for anyone with this inverter. I did two loads with the machine and it failed again. It failed with what I thought was ESA, but was actually E5A, an over temp error of the inverter. I thought maybe the inverter IC I brought was rubbish so replaced it again. Same error. I've attached a pic giving resistor values near the IC. After testing, both R74 and R75 were stuffed. Both 1k resistors. Replacing them worked and the machine is up and running.
Hopefully this is of help to someone to keep these machines out of the dump.
...Leave a comment:
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Just thought to add to this as I had a similar problem. I also had a short in the board somewhere. Mine was a short at C29. C28 when unsoldered was fine and tested at 10uf. I replaced both with a 22uf 50V 105 degree Panasonic cap as I didn't have any ceramic caps on hand. I had a different inverter chip. I also replaced the inverter chip -STGIPS10K60A.
All works well now.
This was on a Electrolux washer/dryer.
The inverter was a Bitron M0091C EMC14EV0....Leave a comment:
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Just a follow up on this.
I replaced IC205 with a new 74HCT244PW chip.
I also replaced IC205 and IC199 as they were the same chip and I bought a pack of 5 so thought what the hell.
I put it back together and the display fired right up.
I left it overnight, turned it on the following morning and the display fired right up again, it's been going fine ever since.
In the mean time I replaced virtually all the capacitors on the DSP board.
Aside from the 74HCT244PW chips that were replaced, and aside from the parts that were unnecessarily replaced, I also replaced...Leave a comment:
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As the amplifier display starts working as the amplifier heats up I decided to apply heat to the area IC205 is before turning it on. Pre heating it turned the display on first crack. It's not to say it is IC205, but something in that area at least. I've ordered replacement MC74HC244ADW chips and will swap them out and report back.Leave a comment:
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IC101 = 11V in - 5.6V out
IC102 = 5.6V in - 3.96V out
IC103 = 5V in - 3.3V outLeave a comment:
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To add information to my above reply.
The voltages are quite messed up.
RST is 5V regardless of whether the display is working or not.
CE is 0v whether the display is working or not.
CLK has 5v when pure audio is pushed, when pushed again 4.6, then when the display is actually working 100% it's just mv's rising quickly to 100's mv's with key presses.
DATA can be 5V then 0v when pure audio is pressed.
When the display is working 100% it's voltages are like CLK.
Before the display is 100% CLK and DATA can be 2.8v, 5v, back to 600mv then 300mv just based...Leave a comment:
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Hi,
Thanks for the reply.
I do have a scope, but it's packed away as we're moving in a few weeks.
RST does have 5 volts.
CE has 0V
CLK sometimes has 100mv otherwise nothing
DATA has 5 volts sometimes.
I'll double check though, I've been testing those resistors on the Front PCB trying to work out a pattern.
The pins on the Main IC 201 are a bit hard to reach.
It may not be the CE pin as the display works regardless of what the voltage on the resistor is.
When I turn it on after a long period of it being off the display won't...Leave a comment:
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Replacing IC301 - LC75721E didn't work. I'm now going to replace IC205, the Logic Gate. I don't believe there's anything wrong with the voltages on the Front PCB. My theory now is that the CE (chip enable) pin that goes through IC205 may not be switching on IC301, due to IC205 being faulty. As the Data and Clock also go through IC205, it may be the reason the display is freezing when it is on. I may replace IC199 and IC206 as well at the same time. Only a guess though.Leave a comment:
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Intermittent display on Sherwood Newcastle R-965 Receiver
Hi all,
I'm working on a Sherwood R-965 at the moment. It came in with relays clicking constantly and also going into protect mode.
I've re-soldered a lot of dry joints and replaced quite a few capacitors and now it works, but I still have one problem I haven't solved and would like some opinions.
The vacuum display is quite intermittent. Sometimes it won't turn on, sometimes it will turn on but the characters, numbers and letters are frozen on, regardless of which buttons are pushed. And sometimes it works flawlessly. If the display doesn't turn on initially, restarting... -
Re: Eeprom dump thread!
LG 60PB6600 Bin
IC100
24C256
NZ version...Last edited by BigPete; 04-07-2023, 10:36 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung BN44-00516A no 5v Stby
Ok. I'll check that out. Thanks.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung BN44-00516A no 5v Stby
Thank you for that R J.
NT801S was open.
I've now replaced it and the TV is back up and running.
Thank you again.
Cheers.
Pete.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung BN44-00516A no 5v Stby
There's no ICX801. There's no error code. There's no power going to the main board to drive an error code.
Is ICX801 the same as US801? It's in the same vicinity as CS825 and QS804. US801 is a 8pin IC.Leave a comment:
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Samsung BN44-00516A no 5v Stby
So I've done a lot of searching trying to figure this one out. I've replaced the usual faulty components on this board.
I've repaired a few of these boards already but never had this issue.
There's no 5v Stby or PS_ON voltage.
There's no voltage at ICP801.
I figure the standby circuit comes from the rectified circuit supplied through the resisters and diodes. Then goes to some Zener diodes and transistors to diode DM832, where the voltage output stops.
From there the circuit goes down to the optocouplers.
I swapped ICP801 and a few other bits and pieces with...Last edited by BigPete; 07-29-2022, 10:42 PM. -
Re: Milwaukee M12 M18 charger repair
They were older models going by the dust in them.
They regularly come up on the local buy and sell sites. All the ones I've repaired have had the U1 chip fail, except for one, which was a faulty plug, and I ended up replacing the U1 IC first thinking it was that.
It could be a similar issue similar to the C4 cap in Yamaha amps.
On these two chargers, the cap was out of spec and the resistor open. I replaced the Diode just to be safe.
It'll be just another thing to check.Last edited by BigPete; 10-27-2021, 12:33 PM.Leave a comment:
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Milwaukee M12 M18 charger repair
Thought to post up a repair I recently did on two of these chargers.
After replacing U1, TOP256EN, which seems to be a common failure and one I've done multiple times, these two ICs blew again, not instantly, but upon removing and reinserting the battery.
What I found was the snubber circuit had failed.
So after replacing U1 again, along with a resistor, polyester cap and a diode, all was well.
The parts and locations:
Replaced U1 - TOP256EN
Replaced D2 - 600V 1A Diode
Replaced C5 - 630V 4.7nF Polyester Cap
Replaced R12 - 68khm 2W resistor
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Re: Panasonic TC-P50X5 no power no red light
Just in case this helps someone, I bought a TH-P42X50 with the same issue. Swapped out U203 with a NCP1271B, as that's what I could get at the time, but still didn't power up. Turns out D308 was shorted as well. It's a SS320 diode.Leave a comment:
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Last edited by BigPete; 12-25-2020, 04:07 AM.Leave a comment:
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