Re: Bad T-con or bad panel??
post a picture of the side tabs that you are referring to. There is some hope.
Bad T-con or bad panel??
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Re: Bad T-con or bad panel??
I see where diah is coming from, right it is considered unfixable for resale, what I'm trying to do is get a decent display and save it from the landfill if possible, I'm using a tv as monitor right now that I shimmed 5 years ago and gets used all day long, still going strong, doesn't have to be what's wrong with yours of course but it had the exact same shadow/ghost display.Last edited by nomoresonys; 07-24-2020, 04:18 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Bad T-con or bad panel??
well i do admire your spirit and will.. with this question am sure you could find way to fix yours panel .. always private users found many ways & Idea to others never try or thought about them,,, from my side wish you really good luck and successful.Leave a comment:
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Re: Bad T-con or bad panel??
I have another question... Say one of the tabs is bad and I had the skill to solderer and replace it. Is it possible to acquire one? or would you only be able to get one from another screen that is broken?Leave a comment:
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Re: Bad T-con or bad panel??
hope nothings are garbage to you... when it display some how pictures which could be satisfied one by trying around.. when you cover pin 44 the dark side become very bright.. trace the line of pin 44 on the tab boards of the panel dark side.. open the traced line and try to add resistances start with 1K .. you can use more or less res you may have brightness match the other side... this is theory i had never did it before.. because such fault always to me no fix for customers.Leave a comment:
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Re: Bad T-con or bad panel??
So your thinking its garbage?Last edited by Alternet; 07-24-2020, 11:14 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Bad T-con or bad panel??
OOPPS.. i just take a look on yours others threat which described yours TV type LG UHD which it had tabs on the panel along the left and right side..you have panel fault .no fix for it :-(Leave a comment:
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Re: Bad T-con or bad panel??
I'm thinking based on the picture that it's a bad/loose tab bond just a hunch not an assumption, never assume OR you make an ass out of u and me: a-s-s-u-m-e.Leave a comment:
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Re: Bad T-con or bad panel??
Any other tests I can run?
I'm also going to test all the resister and cap values on each panel driver board tonight and see if there is a difference between the bad and good sideLeave a comment:
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Re: Bad T-con or bad panel??
Your problem is that there is an issue with the drivers on the dark side. If the set had tabs on the panel along the side, then you would likely see / feel where the problem lies (ie. heating, burn marks, etc). However, on a set that has no side tabs, then the problem falls to signals (powering) not reaching embedded drivers on the panel itself. This is typically done with connections at each corner of the panel with connections associated with the bottom edge boards and the end bottom tabs. In your case, as your previous picture showed, there was a dark spot in the corner of the panel. This is the likely source of your problem. It is unlikely recoverable / repairable / saveable with any techniques discussed herein (ie. tape cutoff, tab removal). :-(
***This is in no way trying to challenge what you have said. I just want to learn more then what I currently know***
The drivers manage to switch from black to white with no issue (which to me says they can drive all of the R, G and B's of each pixel. I would also assume that these two states don't rely on any feedback as its full on/full off kind of thing. Would this be correct?
Also when both sides are plugged in the OSD appears unaffected by what ever the issue is (the darkness). Does anyone have any idea why?
Also the biggest question I have that i'm hoping some one can answer. Why if its only displaying a very poor picture on that half of the screen when the good side is unplugged does it then start to display a completely valid picture that is just darker when the good side is plugged in?
When I saw this behaviour last night I started to think it was a feed back issue and that it cant adjust the colors properly to draw things due maybe a bad reference signal. (But again I do not have a background in lcd panel eng)Last edited by Alternet; 07-24-2020, 09:42 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Bad T-con or bad panel??
Look at Norcal's video post #61, it's not a hard test and JUST may be your solution, I'm not ready to assume that it can't be fixed or at least able to render a decent display.Last edited by nomoresonys; 07-24-2020, 09:41 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Bad T-con or bad panel??
Your problem is that there is an issue with the drivers on the dark side. If the set had tabs on the panel along the side, then you would likely see / feel where the problem lies (ie. heating, burn marks, etc). However, on a set that has no side tabs, then the problem falls to signals (powering) not reaching embedded drivers on the panel itself. This is typically done with connections at each corner of the panel with connections associated with the bottom edge boards and the end bottom tabs. In your case, as your previous picture showed, there was a dark spot in the corner of the panel. This is the likely source of your problem. It is unlikely recoverable / repairable / saveable with any techniques discussed herein (ie. tape cutoff, tab removal). :-(Leave a comment:
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Re: Bad T-con or bad panel??
So a few questions before the results of the test.
Does anyone happen to know if this tv or tvs in general are color additive or subtractive?
I ask because when you unplug one of the sides that side goes white. Which means the R, G and B lcds are all set to 255 (or what ever number of bits tv's use now). That makes me think its color subtractive because no signal results in all colors (which equals white)
But when either side is plugged in that side goes black at boot up when the tv is showing which input is selected and the rest of the screen is black which means the R, G and B lcd's are all "closed" (not re-polarizing the light)
To me that would seem to indicate that every pixel on the screen is functional as it can operate both extremes.
Does this theory have any validity? Or are there other parts in modern panel circuitry that i'm not aware of?
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Now to the test results
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So when I first turned the tv on again I was fully expecting no picture (as I thought part of the issue might be that once things heated up thats what got things kind of working again)
I was wrong. The tv had full picture from cold boot but still half dark. But what I found more interesting was the OSD. It didn't seem to suffer from the darkness issue at all. (See pic1 and pic2)
What I also find interesting is that the darkness problem doesn't start exactly at half of the screen. It fades over. There is no hard line. (See pic1 and pic2)
Now once I popped the tv open and unplugged the "dark side" from the t-con I got pic3. I figured maybe there was a short again and it was just black. But slowly I started to see some sections of the screen changing. (See pic4)
It faded from pic3 to pic4 to pic5 over 2 seconds or so and I realized it is displaying the lg background pictures when no source is available. I waited a few seconds longer and it started to fade again (changing pictures). It faded in to pic6.
Side Note:
The fade effects of the OSD and pictures are standard, but I think they may be happening slower (or ghosting perhaps) on the "dark side". Its hard to tell since the picture is crappy
*****Edit*****
Also I forgot to mention something I found weird. While the power supply board makes a low buzzing noise (when the tv is on) which I attributed to the switching power supply noise. Once I turned the power off I noticed that both the large and smaller transformer made a ticking noise... while the tv is plugged in but powered off. I know there has to be standby voltage and there is power flowing. But I have never heard ticking like that when a tv is turned off. (see pic7 power board pic)Last edited by Alternet; 07-24-2020, 08:14 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Bad T-con or bad panel??
Here's Norcal diagnosing and dealing with a bad tab bond: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=purk_SyiT44Leave a comment:
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Re: Bad T-con or bad panel??
Could it be a tcon issue? starting to wonder.Leave a comment:
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Re: Bad T-con or bad panel??
Ok i just want to clarify again.
so for the test you want me disconnect both ribbons from the t-con side (not at the same time) and verify that side goes white and the other has picture.
Also i don't know if this is useful info in anyway but when doing the tap method i was taping on the t-con side of the ribbon cableLeave a comment:
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Re: Bad T-con or bad panel??
Ok, well that I think is normal, now try the other side if you get half a good picture with no distortion with each ribbon removed, then maybe it's not a panel issue.Last edited by nomoresonys; 07-23-2020, 01:12 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Bad T-con or bad panel??
i did disconnect that side several times after it just started working again for no reason. I get a fully white screen on the "dark side" and a picture on the "good side"
I will do it again tonight and take pictures.Leave a comment:
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