Re: ROLAND DAC-15D only dry signal



You need to follow the input waveform around giong by the points that you have posted from the service manual. You previously posted waveforms from point "2" (I think). So you need to do the same for each point as identified by the pictures in the manual. The one of interest is at point 3.

Having said that, IF the voltage output was at 15v as you posted, it is possible that it might have taken out a few components that rely on the 7.x volts....

Re: ROLAND DAC-15D only dry signal

Doesn't look right. Check the voltages at both the zeners going into q1 and q2.

Re: ROLAND DAC-15D only dry signal

sorry don't know much about the dram function or for that matter, the overall processing itself. When I was dealing with the noise problem, I did the same as you... put in a nice clean 1khz waveform and followed it along til I found where it went bad / noisy and then started check components in the area thereafter.

Another question for you, your post showing the schematic shows a better "picture" than previous posts which I think you took from other sites. Do you actually have the "service notes" for the DAC15....

Re: ROLAND DAC-15D only dry signal

I can't add much more other than "good stuff". Are you able to get a trace "point 3" which is just after Q9... it should be some sort of chopped signal similar to what you posted in #16. I am not sure why you aren't seeing a "normal" sine wave. It almost looks like you are getting some form of "rectified waveform" instead.

Re: ROLAND DAC-15D only dry signal

you should be seeing some sort of similar 1khz wave form at the output of the LPF section at q8.

another question about your input.... is it a nice clean 1khz sine wave? and further along the input signal path, does it continue to be nice and clean or are you seeing a totally "distorted" wave at some point.... maybe the input portion has some "weird" gain or such that the input can be handled in the further processing down stream.

Re: ROLAND DAC-15D only dry signal

ok... thanks. I am starting to get beyond my limited knowledge / experience (my roland suffered from noise / leaky cap). Anyway, I don't know what it means.... but you could be right as it is certainly digital. I think the levels seem "high". How big is your input 1khz signal. Further, how are you generating the 1khz... do you have other frequencies available just to see if the characteristic at IC7 changes with the frequency change?

At IC6 (after q9), both inputs should have a similar look. What are you seeing the...

Re: ROLAND DAC-15D only dry signal

are you able to post a scope shot of what you are seeing at ic7 when you are saying "the signal is there"... what is the signal? My understanding is that it should be some form of "chopped analog" as I think that is what the two inputs appear to come from... ie. chopper chip... although i am not sure how the op amp before ic7 will handle that.... ie smoothing or otherwise.

In terms of the "only the chorus and flange effects" don't work... those are the only thing handled by this portion of the processing...

Re: ROLAND DAC-15D only dry signal

Check to ensure that IC5 has proper supply voltages ... this is a "chopper IC" thus after this point and after Q9, your 1khz input might look a "bit different" (not as well defined).

Re: ROLAND DAC-15D only dry signal

Only have limited experience with roland (dac50xd) and operation in general. Looking at the schematic, if you feed in your 1khz tone, you then can check to ensure what you are seeing at the output of the master volume (the 2.9dbm)... the value isn't so important at this time... just ensure that you are seeing a good signal. That signal is fed to the processing stage via op amp ic4a. Check at that op amp output to see what signal you are seeing there... ensure that it is similar to what you saw at the output previously mentioned / checked. You...

Re: ESD Diode on HDMI output of Yamaha a1050 RCVR

Well, I lifted the esd diode pack for the data0 and data1 pairs (in the same pack). No joy as the impedance to ground is still low (~6K) for either of the bad lines versus high mohm for the good lines. The only thing between the hdmi pins and the transmitter chip (256 pin) is some smd inductor pairs. I lifted the one involved. No change. It appears that the drivers involved in the data1 pair have an issue at the chip. I am not risking replacing the chip as one output is better than none... :-)

I lost one of the two hdmi outputs on a yamaha rx-a1050 receiver. Of course, it is the hdmi1 which has the arc capability which was useful. The second output hdmi works OK.

I got an hdmi breakout board which gave me access to the "little guys" in the hdmi. I did some gross DC voltage measurements to ground and found that the Data1 pair (4 and 6) had a lower voltage than the working hdmi.... 1.1v versus 2.9. All others pins seem to be OK. Further when plugged into a display, there is no video but a message on the screen which I assume is the display's status for the...

Re: Headphone wires.... confused!



AH... you were right. I took a larger "strip" about 1.5 inches and was more careful and indeed there is two wires in both sheaths. The thin "ground" wires were being stripped away by the stripper and being so fine were lost inside the removed insulation.

thanks.... mystery solved... poor technique and poor eyes. :-)...

Re: Headphone wires.... confused!

there is no wires in the removed insulation. I didn't do 4 inches in one cut... I did about 3/4 inch at a time. I am going to crack open the speaker module, hopefully without wrecking to see how those wires are physically terminated inside the housing. Then, maybe the mystery will be solved.

Re: Headphone wires.... confused!

that would be too easy. attached is a picture of the speaker assembly from the side that has the two colored wires in the one sheath going into. Note there is no contacts out of the "box" going into the ear "body" so I don't think there is any was to get electricity flowing unless its travel thru my ears from one side to the other.... :-)...

Re: Headphone wires.... confused!

the one sheath going to the one ear has the two colored wires. The other sheath has what looks like bare copper / uncolored. The is no wiring leaving the ear pieces (going from one side to the other). I looked at the "single uncolored" sheath. There is only uncolored copper and "hair strands" of some sort of "cording" which in large cable, I think, could be use to strip other side sheath ... at least that's what I have seen it used for. There is no second conductor that I can see in that sheath, which I have cut...

I picked up a "beat up" set of sennheiser headphones (hd201). The phono plug end seemed to have an issue such that most of the time only one ear would work but by compressing / bending the jacket of the phono plug, I could cause the other ear to work. Must be a phono jack (3 pin) problem. So I cut it off and have solder based replacement. BUT... the wiring seems "mysterious" to me. I can't see how this can work or even ever worked. Attached is a picture of the wires (less the phono plug). One sheath has what I believe is two enameled wires while the other has basically...

Re: Anthem MRX500 - no sound. R2A15218FP issue??

:-( does not sound good. you might try some "creative" heating in the area. Maybe some sort of problem with connections (cold joint, oxidized, etc) or a poor capacitor (dried or otherwise).

Re: Anthem MRX500 - no sound. R2A15218FP issue??

have you check the mute to see what voltage is there? Depending on what it is, finding a way to change the value (ie. cut a track, or add some small voltage)?

Re: Anthem MRX500 - no sound. R2A15218FP issue??

not sure... it was just a clip that I read. I think what you describe is probably what I read.... basically, you have to "assign" inputs to "source X" ... from there you choose what the video and audio will come from... the audio can be either analog or digital even for a hdmi video signal selection.

what are the listening modes setup for the source that you have selected?

Re: Anthem MRX500 - no sound. R2A15218FP issue??

I haven't tried this but since you only have a DMM.... maybe on the analog this will work. Get your hands on some "low frequency" audio files (50-60 hz type for testing sub woofers). Input those on the analog side... your meter should be able to pick it up "easier". I use an audio test cd that has a couple of different signals generated. You may be able to see it on at the input side of things more readily.

On scope side... here is a listing sample....
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