I did one charge cycle. The unit switches to "100% - green led" when done. Not sure if it accomplished the full charge... have to see how long the drill lasts.
thanks again for the guidance on this that got my drill back in service.
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I just did a quick test using the "new found epiphany" and the charge light is now in "charge mode". Hopefully, the GG1052 has enough smarts in its internals to keep the thing from over charging. Assuming the charging current is less than ~1amp and voltage is contained (open circuit was 13.4v DC), the battery should be ok?
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After looking the schematic that was linked by Great Sage, now I think I see what you are saying. The charger does not actaully use the "T sensor" connection AND the case is MISLABELLED. The "Tsensor" contact on the charger is actually the negative contact. Hopefully, I have that right. Thanks....
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Thanks... I will see if I can follow the "hint". I don't see how the "T sensor" feeds into this. The "RJ0!" looks somewhat suspiciously missing.... but it only connects some traces together but not to the Negative lug / contact. Looking at the RH02, that appears to be some sort of "zero ohm fuse".... maybe?
ADDED: I think I see how the RJ's are. They are placed for changing which contact is + and -.... basically moving it from RJ02 to RJ01 reverses the polarity....Last edited by budwich; 03-19-2025, 05:15 PM.
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My guess (very small numbering) is GG1052 and the second number on this small chip is maybe BO7L2435.
As for "incomplete", what area are you looking at particularly?...Last edited by budwich; 03-19-2025, 12:26 PM.
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My bad... I should have done more labelling on the picture. There might be confusion on the "flip" between the two pictures. . I am also going by the labelling on the shell which has the negative going to the contact highlighted. I think the "T" contact is the one that you are alluding to. Sorry for the confusion. [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"small","data-attachmentid":3596898}[/ATTACH]...
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Lithium 12v tool battery charger... no negative connection?
I have a drill and battery but no charger so I bought a "universal charger" 120ac in ... 12vdc out (not really universal in lithium world). Anyway it has three contacts, positive, negative and "T" (temperature sensor). I connected those contacts to the contacts on the battery. No charging happened and only the status light is on (green solid) which the label indicates "100% charged".... but the battery isn't near that at around 9v and dying. There doesn't appear to be any difference whether the battery is connected or not. I got suspicious and pulled the...
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I haven't gotten much further on this in terms of success. I have question though about the LCD panels on an 3lcd projector. Are the panels all the same... meaning "monochrome" and that basically only filters / polarizers are the "color component" or is each panel a "normal" LCD and only the appropriate "sub pixel" is driven for a given color? Depending on that operation, maybe the blue lcd panel has an issue and not necessarily only the polarizer stages.Last edited by budwich; 06-29-2024, 10:20 AM.
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OK... I will see how this "surgery" can be done.
ADDED: attached is the out polarizers, Green and Blue paths. Blue one is definitely "burnt". Are these available anywhere at a reasonable cost?...Last edited by budwich; 05-12-2024, 09:12 AM.
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You could be right about the green. I am "color deficient" with red / green plus... I can see colors but if one color is dominate, it "floods" any others in certain combinations. I have asked my "helper" who has good color vision what colors are showing at times to confirm things so some of those details that I have provided about colors are based on that confirmation.
Not sure that you understand what I have said. I have the prism block / assembly totally out of the machine. I can place a flashlight at the "out port" side of the...
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:-( not sure I follow things in terms of "burnt"... will there be discoloration or blocked image? When I send an led light into the out side port of assembly, I can look at each panel. They all looked the same with good color, no blotches and "fog". I can clearly see the light source led cob element of the flashlight that I am using thru each panel.
So my question then, can I move the blue panel "sandwich" over to the red position and similarly put the red in the vacant blue area. Will this damage the drivers? Is there any voltages associated...
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Attached is a block diagram of the video processing section. Not sure I know what I am looking for. :-(
My guess would be all the inputs going in to the IC1801 panel driver??...Last edited by budwich; 05-11-2024, 06:27 AM.
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OK. Thanks for this. My understanding of LCD projection is very limited as I have only used and worked with DLP ones and mostly therein with hdmi interface issues.
I disconnected the red and green panel cabling going to the block on then displayed a menu. Prior to that the menu lettering was very yellow with pale yellow cast over the reset of the screen which should have been black / grey. With those cables disconnected, the pale yellow cast over the rest of the screen was more dark grey and there was a very faint sign of blue lettering. From what you indicate, that would seem to mean the...Last edited by budwich; 05-11-2024, 06:08 AM.
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Sony Data Projector vplfh31 3LCD Blue missing
Got this projector which has a problem with a lack of blue. Menu text is very yellow... expecting white. If I input a signal from a test disc via hdmi, a red screen image shows a uniform red as expect. Green similar while the blue does show but with non-uniformity. Looked at the in-polarizers. They are all good and clean. Running the projector to expose the light area in the prism block, shows each color well represented, all looking about the same intensity from the naked eye. Looking at the prism block itself and sending a light source back into the "out port", the individual...
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Re: ROLAND DAC-15D only dry signal
You need to follow the input waveform around giong by the points that you have posted from the service manual. You previously posted waveforms from point "2" (I think). So you need to do the same for each point as identified by the pictures in the manual. The one of interest is at point 3.
Having said that, IF the voltage output was at 15v as you posted, it is possible that it might have taken out a few components that rely on the 7.x volts....
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Re: ROLAND DAC-15D only dry signal
Doesn't look right. Check the voltages at both the zeners going into q1 and q2.
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Re: ROLAND DAC-15D only dry signal
sorry don't know much about the dram function or for that matter, the overall processing itself. When I was dealing with the noise problem, I did the same as you... put in a nice clean 1khz waveform and followed it along til I found where it went bad / noisy and then started check components in the area thereafter.
Another question for you, your post showing the schematic shows a better "picture" than previous posts which I think you took from other sites. Do you actually have the "service notes" for the DAC15....
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