Many threads on this tv but i do not see anything on my issue. Visual-10 blinks after turn on. Using panasonic repair manual i looked for short on 15 volt sc board and ss board. Resistance on both sc line and ss line seemed to be normal as in over 1k ohm reading. I read no rise in 15 volt line with meter connected when i turned on set. unplugged sc20 with meter connected turned set on observed 15 volts until shutdown circuit kicked in. my conclusion is bad sc board as per manual. AM I MISSING ANYTHING. Also what is the best setting to have your meter set to when doing the resistance checks. Any help would very much appreciated.
Panasonic TC-P50G20
Collapse
X
-
Re: Panasonic TC-P50G20
you need to investigate the sub voltages (5, 3.3) to see what they are doing. Further, the SOS may not be reporting the right code as the A board may be "confused".
what is the history of the set? How did it get to its present state?Comment
-
Re: Panasonic TC-P50G20
Another wild goose chase, LMAOO!ASRock B550 PG Velocita
Ryzen 9 "Vermeer" 5900X
32 GB G.Skill RipJaws V F4-3200C16D-32GVR
Arc A770 16 GB
eVGA Supernova G3 750W
Western Digital Black SN850 1TB NVMe SSD
Alienware AW3423DWF OLED
"¡Me encanta "Me Encanta o Enlistarlo con Hilary Farr!" -Mà mismo
"There's nothing more unattractive than a chick smoking a cigarette" -Topcat
"Today's lesson in pissivity comes in the form of a ziplock baggie full of GPU extension brackets & hardware that for the last ~3 years have been on my bench, always in my way, getting moved around constantly....and yesterday I found myself in need of them....and the bastards are now nowhere to be found! Motherfracker!!" -Topcat
"did I see a chair fly? I think I did! Time for popcorn!" -ratdude747Comment
-
ASRock B550 PG Velocita
Ryzen 9 "Vermeer" 5900X
32 GB G.Skill RipJaws V F4-3200C16D-32GVR
Arc A770 16 GB
eVGA Supernova G3 750W
Western Digital Black SN850 1TB NVMe SSD
Alienware AW3423DWF OLED
"¡Me encanta "Me Encanta o Enlistarlo con Hilary Farr!" -Mà mismo
"There's nothing more unattractive than a chick smoking a cigarette" -Topcat
"Today's lesson in pissivity comes in the form of a ziplock baggie full of GPU extension brackets & hardware that for the last ~3 years have been on my bench, always in my way, getting moved around constantly....and yesterday I found myself in need of them....and the bastards are now nowhere to be found! Motherfracker!!" -Topcat
"did I see a chair fly? I think I did! Time for popcorn!" -ratdude747Comment
-
Re: Panasonic TC-P50G20
another question for you... are you going to be trying to repair a board or replace? Just wondering.
"my confusion" comes from the troubleshooting guide which shows / list possible outcomes of some tests and flashes that you have seen / read thru (also). One of the last items listed is "wrong diagnostic by the A board".... which of course is last in the list but still plausible if others check out.
In my limited experience with the 50s30 (which I have not fixed the sc board after a few attempts... with obvious shorted IBGT), after a first fix attempt and during checks prior to full powering of all card... one of the tests was to power up the system with sc20 disconnected along sc50 shorted and the sc to su/sd disconnected, the SOS then reported a flash code 8. Subsequently, after checks and plugging everything up, the set worked for a bit but ultimately took out the IGBTs again. I replaced failed components and tried checks again and subsequent power up. With either the sc20 disconnected or connected, I got 8 flashes... but didn't find anything blown (yet) and have done similar checks like you in and around the 15v and other areas.
I could find anything on a reset of the A board, so I decided to unplug the sc20, and all power feeds between the P board and the A/SS (ie. p6, p11, and p35) hoping for a "miracle reset" (ie. assuming any cap's will drain down, etc). After letting that set for a while, replugged everything back, now I sit with 6 flash. No sure if the A board has "reset" but something changed in just cable unplugging / plugging.
Your 10 flash code doesn't give much in terms of troubleshooting past "replace A" or "replace p".... hence my question. Your "checks / tests" appear to point more at the SC board since isolating it (sc20 disconnect) seems to allow your 15v to come up.
You asked previously about meter settings... if your meter has a "buzz/continuity" setting... this would be best for checking for shorts as then the meter by-passes some of the measuring circuitry and you will get a quicker response if you touch a "short".
Still further, if you look at the guide, you can see the pins which go from the A board to the SC board via the SC20 (29/30)... you can test to see if those are shorted at either A or SC.
Hope I haven't cooked your goose.... :-) sorry for the long post.Comment
-
Re: Panasonic TC-P50G20
Budwich i think i will either look for a working board or boards or send in for repair. Either way the cost can add up fast. In this case trying to be as conclusive as possible before making a choice. The reason for asking meter question was in most cases probing almost always shows capacitor action which on my fluke meter may seem to show short but you can see the resistance rising quickly which to me indicates a non shorted circuit. I suspect the sc because sc2 shows quick capacitor action rising above a level thst would indicate a short while the sc 20 shows .448 ohms steady. Thank you for your comments.Comment
-
Re: Panasonic TC-P50G20
I am some what in the same mode... cost... the set I have was recycled and showed up in my house. I don't necessarily want to spend lots to find out it has more problems although I may have contributed to its "down fall" with my repair effort which between possible "fake parts" and soldering technique maybe its "coffin"... but my time is basically free so I plug away for now.
My experience is that the "buzzer setting" is pretty good with metering as an indication for shorts as opposed to the other setting IF you don't know what the circuit makeup is. You can check for yourself by testing a known component like a capacitor and see what happens.
Having said that... I checked my sc board as I only did the "buzz test". Anyways, at the sc2 connector (it disconnected).... buzz shows open while similarly to yours, in resistance mode / auto, the meter jumps to a relatively high reading and then reduced as the capacitors in the circuit charge. Note: the SC2 connector / circuit is high voltage
with large capacitors in the circuit while the SC20 connector is low voltage and likely has small capacitors in the circuit so they may reach "full charge" at first touch and thus give a "solid resistance" reading forth with. Not much help... but I don't think your results point to an obvious SC fault just yet. Based on my SC experience, the SC2 will show an obvious short. Not sure about the SC20 reading... which pins are you taking the reading on?
One more question, in your testing with the guide (page 79) indicates the process whereby you could get either of two results... none of which point at the sc board... :-(
have you tried that test a couple of times... it appears to be some what timing related because of the 15v action... maybe. Your result is always 10 flashes?
oops, I now see that the TS guide I am referring to is for GT models and not G... :-( maybe a big difference.Comment
-
Re: Panasonic TC-P50G20
Well Testing was done at the 15 volt output at p11 i believe with sc 20 connected voltage at less than 1 volt than sos kicks in. Testing was also done at the 15 volt line just to make sure it read the same as 15 at p11. sc 20 was disconnected and 15 volt again measured and was normal until sos again shuts the set down i would think because no current coming from 15 volt on sc board. P board generates the 15 volt and than feeds A board which than supplies 15 volts to SC board through a flat cable. If the problem were on the A board i would think removing sc 20 connector would not have the effect of allowing 15 volts to appear on p11. The difficulty is what seems logical is sometimes illogical for some situations based on engineering designs ?Comment
-
Re: Panasonic TC-P50G20
you would think... but I haven't seen a "reset procedure". It is some what strange that almost every code has a "wrong diagnostic by the A board", yet no way to get out of that "mode".
My "page 79" indicates "Plug in the TV and press the power switch immediately after the first relay click from the power supply is heard.".... then "Did the number of blinks changed?" If still "10", then replace A. If "14", then replace P.
About your comment about disconnecting the SC20 impacting the result on the 15v... pointing to the SC.... I guess, potentially, it could be that the circuit on the output of the A towards the SC board (some switching component / "buffer") has an issue such that "loaded" it is not able to maintain the 15v but with the load removed, your reading sees the "open circuit" voltage of 15v.... just a guess though.... but there are also other control pins between the sc and A that may be in play also.Comment
-
Re: Panasonic TC-P50G20
budwich- i thank you for your input. I spent almost 20 years in the TV repair business and these kind of problems always drove me crazy. You have to have this before you have that. Sometimes the creators of these high tech equipment forget someone somewhere will try to repair without enough documentation without the availability of tech support and sadly not enough parts at a reasonable price. We are left to do our best with parts from ebay or repair services with a wing and a prayer. I applaud those who find a way to keep things working. Never give up, always strive to be better and hope you find the secret poition. More info coming soon.Comment
-
Re: Panasonic TC-P50G20
Sent SC board in for repair. Results of repair: 14 bad components. Repair was Successful and the tv lives again. most Sc's would throw a 4 blink or 7-8. I think in my case 15 volt supply to sc shorted or so it seemed and vsus main voltage open so sos read 15 volt first. Just a guess. Thanks all for the help.Comment
Related Topics
Collapse
-
by everellThis is an EVGA 500 watt Model 100-W1-0500. On power up only has a small fan twitch. Usually this is just a bad capacitor on one of the output lines. Not this time. I pulled out my storage scope and looked at the output lines during the first 10 msec after power up. 12 volt line was 11.5 volts. 5 volt line was 4.5 volts. But....the 3.3 volt line was also 4.5 volts. Couldn't find a short between the 5 volt line and the 3.3 volt line. So pulled out my multimeter and tried to find a bad component using resistance measurements. Nothing. So I took a guess that the mag-amp transistor might be bad. It...
-
by TrueSword88Hi all.
I have a Kogan 65' LCD Panel with a thin blue vertical line (top to bottom) on left hand side of panel.
The line just happens to coincide with the end of COF and start of the next COF (attached).
The line is permanent no matter what I've tried. I've tried pressure testing the panel (top to bottom) and all over, I didn't notice any difference with the line, either temporary or semi-permanent.
Also tried unplugging all flex cables, cleaned with isopropyl then re-inserting to no avail - line remains.
Hoping to fix... -
by sam_sam_samAbout 5 years ( or ) more ago I had recap this line conditioner because it would rapidly relay clicking so that was the reason for having to recap the board
The other thing it was doing every time the air conditioner would turn ON it would click this started about 2 weeks ago
We have a lot of voltage dipping where I live ( 110 to 126 volts ac ) so I was not surprised that it was doing this but I have two more of units that were not doing this all time but i I did not give it much thought but maybe I should have but it is a pain in the butt to work on this unit
... -
by jorpecHi
I want to change the scale of an analog meter, to monitor the charge of an li-ion single cell, so the needle at the end would point 4.2 volts and the 0 on the meter would point 2.5 volts or so, i tried to add diodes or a zener in series with the meter but the changes of the ambient temperature also changes the voltage value on the meter
I wonder how i can accomplish this so the meter would be precise at any temperature ?
Thnaks -
by mindoverflowhello,
there is an asus gtx1650 which displays fine in windows but if i run a benchmark test it displays artifacts and the driver crashes after a second or two.
I changed pads and thermal paste.
I run mats test but it is reporting 0 errors.
I then tried to run the mods version 400.271_1650 test, it first ran and stopped with a 'breakpoints limit reached after 5 retries' error and the fans went full speed.
After a reboot, I tried to run the test again, but now the test fails and says "ERROR: Couldn't clear GPU's interrupt...02-09-2022, 03:22 PM - Loading...
- No more items.
Comment