Hello,
I have a 6 years old Sony KDL-32BX300 32" LCD TV.
I do not have a lot of experience in TV repair, but I can read schematic and understand what is going on.
Few years ago, 1 bad video card from a computer destroyed the HDMI port 2. When I measure the resistance of one of the HDMI signal, it is shorted to GND (4ohm resistance). The problem is inside the ARM processor.
Then, last week, while listening a movie on my PS4 the TV stopped working.
I have unplugged the tv from the wall outlet, let it sit for few minutes and replugged in. Now, there is 2 LED active. Power On is green and no picture is also green. Both LED are solid lit.
Sometimes, both LED will shutdown after 30s, sometimes the LED will stay lit.
Sometimes, when I unplug the TV and replug fast, the No picture LED will be lit orange, that means the TV is in standby mode.
by pressing any key on the button panel or the remote control will change anything.
I tried to reset the TV with the special command ( volume + and power on the TV ) this is not working, I also tried the up + power and it is not working.
I have measured the voltage on the PSU and everything seems to be OK.
The voltage to the inverter are OK ( 25V / GND and signal from the control board ) The inverter error is hi -> OK (there is a pull-up on the controller board)
The 3.3V standby is there and when I plug the controller board I have the following signal from the connector :
standby 3.3V
AC-OFF-DECT 2V (OK there is a voltage divider)
Power_on 3.3V
AUDIO_12V : 12V
REG_12V : 12V
BL_ERR : 3.3V
BL_ON : 0V
Dimmer : 25mV or 1.6V it will depend. I don't understand why this will vary.
T_CON 12V : 0V
T_CON_ON : 0V
if I unplug the controller board, most of the signal are gone, the only signal available is 3.3V stand by. So I am 100% sure the power supply is ok.
So I understand that the TV is powered on but since it is in no picture mode, it will disable the T_CON.
I have looked ad most of the voltage regulator (U10, U27, U29, U1, U34 [taken on L1] and U2 [taken on L2], U24, ).
Q10 is OK to provide 5V power.
USB is powered on
I have measured the voltage from the power button (from the TV) and the voltage is ok.
So I am totally screwed.
From this forum, I have seen that it is possible to get a corruption in the eeprom. I would not be surprised this could be the case. I have a knowledge in I2C manipulation, so I could remove the eeprom chip (U5 chip) and erase it. But I am sure there is information registered in this chip that may total the TV.
If I short the SW1 (reset) switch, there is 18mA going through the switch and the LED are powered off. When I release the LED are lit or powered off in the same state than before.
So, as I said, I am totally screwed. I don't know where to look at, since the signal to enable the T_CON come from directly the ARM processor. I guess the problem does not come from the electronics but seems to be a logical error in the processor.
So, what can I do next ? Purchase a new controller board ?
From what I have seen on ebay, all of the pcb have a T_CON connector different of mine. But I think I should be able to unsolder my connector and put it on the new board. Since the pcb is the same (with the same REV number) I guess the value of the resistor will not change on the pcb, only the connector will change ?!
Thank you for your hints/help.
Weeb0
I have a 6 years old Sony KDL-32BX300 32" LCD TV.
I do not have a lot of experience in TV repair, but I can read schematic and understand what is going on.
Few years ago, 1 bad video card from a computer destroyed the HDMI port 2. When I measure the resistance of one of the HDMI signal, it is shorted to GND (4ohm resistance). The problem is inside the ARM processor.
Then, last week, while listening a movie on my PS4 the TV stopped working.
I have unplugged the tv from the wall outlet, let it sit for few minutes and replugged in. Now, there is 2 LED active. Power On is green and no picture is also green. Both LED are solid lit.
Sometimes, both LED will shutdown after 30s, sometimes the LED will stay lit.
Sometimes, when I unplug the TV and replug fast, the No picture LED will be lit orange, that means the TV is in standby mode.
by pressing any key on the button panel or the remote control will change anything.
I tried to reset the TV with the special command ( volume + and power on the TV ) this is not working, I also tried the up + power and it is not working.
I have measured the voltage on the PSU and everything seems to be OK.
The voltage to the inverter are OK ( 25V / GND and signal from the control board ) The inverter error is hi -> OK (there is a pull-up on the controller board)
The 3.3V standby is there and when I plug the controller board I have the following signal from the connector :
standby 3.3V
AC-OFF-DECT 2V (OK there is a voltage divider)
Power_on 3.3V
AUDIO_12V : 12V
REG_12V : 12V
BL_ERR : 3.3V
BL_ON : 0V
Dimmer : 25mV or 1.6V it will depend. I don't understand why this will vary.
T_CON 12V : 0V
T_CON_ON : 0V
if I unplug the controller board, most of the signal are gone, the only signal available is 3.3V stand by. So I am 100% sure the power supply is ok.
So I understand that the TV is powered on but since it is in no picture mode, it will disable the T_CON.
I have looked ad most of the voltage regulator (U10, U27, U29, U1, U34 [taken on L1] and U2 [taken on L2], U24, ).
Q10 is OK to provide 5V power.
USB is powered on
I have measured the voltage from the power button (from the TV) and the voltage is ok.
So I am totally screwed.
From this forum, I have seen that it is possible to get a corruption in the eeprom. I would not be surprised this could be the case. I have a knowledge in I2C manipulation, so I could remove the eeprom chip (U5 chip) and erase it. But I am sure there is information registered in this chip that may total the TV.
If I short the SW1 (reset) switch, there is 18mA going through the switch and the LED are powered off. When I release the LED are lit or powered off in the same state than before.
So, as I said, I am totally screwed. I don't know where to look at, since the signal to enable the T_CON come from directly the ARM processor. I guess the problem does not come from the electronics but seems to be a logical error in the processor.
So, what can I do next ? Purchase a new controller board ?
From what I have seen on ebay, all of the pcb have a T_CON connector different of mine. But I think I should be able to unsolder my connector and put it on the new board. Since the pcb is the same (with the same REV number) I guess the value of the resistor will not change on the pcb, only the connector will change ?!
Thank you for your hints/help.
Weeb0
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