Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

[sgeorge]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Replace 3 ceramic caps, C5160, C5162 and C5046 (all marked 106 = 10uf) with 10uf/63v electrolytics on y sustain usually fixes the problem

[jose6326]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Can anyone help me out

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=49827

As I mentioned before I sprayed the ic chip and blue caps and the tv did not turn on
I placed the ysus in the freezer put it back powered up the tv and nothing

I ordered the repair kit for the ysus and an xmain from shopjimmy I replaced all the components installed the ysus and xmain and still nothing

[mainevail]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Hi. I recently purchased one of these PN60E530's off Craigslist and am having the same problem as addressed in this thread.
I bought a package of the small blue capacitors ( 10uf 50v ) and changed the 3 that are referenced throughout this thread. Once I put the board back in the screen would flash at startup which was seemed to be progress as before nothing at all happened when I turned the set on. So I took the board out and replaced all of the small blue capacitors that I could get to. This time when I started the TV it came on but there were 2 to 3 inch horizontal bands of red static on the TV which only seemed to appear in black areas. The red bands did not encroach on the menus and when I started my attached bluray player the bands went away completely.
I should mention that all this time there was a humming coming from the back of the TV. Being unfamiliar with plasmas I am not sure if this is normal or not. However, when I pressed play on the bluray the screen went to black while the movie loaded and the red bands reappeared and shortly thereafter there was a snap like an electrical short from the area of the V main board and the TV quit on me.
When I unplug the V board I get the chimes but nothing else. I found a link in one of the other threads on how to test the buffer boards which I plan to do today.
I also plan on getting some freeze spray today so I can try freezing the components mentioned earlier in the thread.
In the interim was just wondering if anyone might have any insight on the red bands and what might have "snapped." Any help will be welcome and greatly appreciated.

[jose6326]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

did you replace the ic chip at u5014?

if you read the previous posts everyone changed the 3 blue caps and the ic chip

but you may have other issues since you have horizontal lines

[mainevail]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

I have one on order. Shipped today, should be here by next Wednesday.

I went ahead and checked the buffer boards and they seem to be OK and I tried freezing the IC. No go.

Guess I will have to put it on hold until I get the IC in the mail. Will post results once I get the chip and have a chance to install it.

Thanks.

[jjanssen7]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

I'm curious, where did you source the IC?

[mainevail]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Ebay. Here's the link. Hope this is the correct chip.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161848857263

[jjanssen7]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Thanks. Let us know how you make out with it!

[jose6326]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

i ordered one from digikey for a different tv i repaired thanks to the eveyrone on this site

http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...LA1-ND/4842151

im not sure if the specs are the same though because it is missing the "Z" at the end but my guess it is compatible because i replaced it with the same exact ic that is in question in this post

i would ask one of the actual techs on here

[Chetty1977]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

My Y board dont have a spot for the C5162. I seen in pics where it goes. But mine dont have a spot for it. I replaced the U5014 C5046 C5160. My problem is my tv flashes a redish color and then shuts off. But on a dark screen it will stay on. But as soon as a white background comes on. The red/pink flashing starts and will shut off. The tv was made in 2012

[Wingryder]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Just for info.. cracked screen plasma discussed earlier in thread still going strong
11/24 Using for main TV.. average 4 hours a day. (way too much) about a month now.

[Wingryder]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Still going and here's the proof

[matt@bdtinc.com]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

I have a Samsung PN60E550D1FXZA with sound and no picture. When plugged in i briefly get correct Vs and Va which then drops down to 0. With only X-main hooked up, it drops slowly. With both X and Y hooked up it drops significantly faster. I have checked both Y buffers and found no shorts. -Vscan comes up briefly to -209 and i hear a buzzing from what sounds like U5014 for a few seconds then it stops and voltages drop. I tried freeze spray to no avail and upon power on i initially get about 16-17V on the right leg of C5162.

I felt i was in the same boat as others here and i followed this thread closely. My logic board had the same light for 5 seconds, then a blink off and back on again. I was just about to order the repair kit for the Y-main but i wanted to try disconnecting the LVDS from the Y-Main to see if i got the one second blinks like everyone else. When I powered up the set with everything except LVDS cable, i started to get smoke from the green capacitor on the top y-buffer board C5466! Does anyone know the value of this or more importantly, why that would happen? Do you think I have a different problem and will replacing that cap (along with Y-main) be enough ?

[goodnowm]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

I just wanted to post a quick thank you for the work in this thread. My PN60E550 had the sound but no picture issue. Putting Y board in freezer brought it back to life temporarily, so I replaced C5162 with a 10uf/50v electrolytic and the set has a new lease on life.

My electronics knowledge is very basic, but with all the pictures and clear instructions in this thread I felt very comfortable performing all the diagnostic steps and the repair itself. Thanks again and keep up the good work.

[Terryfictv]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

After several similar repairs, I have concluded a 10mf/25v TANTALUM capacitor is
a suitable replacement for C5162. Measuring with a cap checker is inconclusive because
failure occurs at turn on. If you chill the cap and the set turns on replace the cap and
leave the IC original. When buying repair kits that have more parts than needed, analyze which parts are the cause of the symptom. In this case, the cap is the culprit !

[ramric]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Ok, so the problem with both of these sets here IS the Infineon 3BR0665J at U5014 right below the transformer for the -Vscan on the Y-Main board.

Using the datasheet and tracing the circuit, I verified that it is getting power by looking for +15v on pin 7 (VCC, also available on the right leg of C5162 and on the J5101 jumper above it), that the feedback voltage on pin 2 (FB) is up at close to 5v (saying, "Hello, Mr. Chip, we need more voltage", which is the inverse of how I've designed things in the past with a TL494 or SG3526, etc.), that the current sense pin 3 (CS) is not indicating an overload since it's showing no current flowing because it is at 0v drop across the current sense resistor, etc., so all look great, BUT...

Then we get to the BA, pin 1, which has two purposes. One purpose is to adjust the blanking time for the overload holdback but is not required. The other purpose is to manually put the chip into "Auto-Restart" mode essentially cutting it off and forcing a restart of the cycle from an external source.

This pin is supposed to be pulled up internally to 0.9v by a current source but shows 0v. The only circuitry connected to this pin in this implementation is a 0.1 uF capacitor to ground to add a little extra blanking time, there is no external circuitry that can be holding it down and, indeed, removing the capacitor made no difference. According to the block diagram, I'm guessing the current source must be defective, the zener diode is shorting or some other internal problem.

When I spray freeze spray on it, the voltage jumps up to 0.9v and it starts to oscillate, the output of the DRAIN pin looks like normal PWM on the scope and -Vscan comes up properly. Prodding it externally with 0.9v to try to make it come up does not work.

So, everyone who may have this problem, check the voltage on pin 1 (the lower right pin, indicated by the arrow on the PCB) with your meter's negative lead to ground and if you do NOT see the 0.9v when you power up the set, suspect this part. If you have freeze spray, give the chip a little squirt and you should hear it start to oscillate if the power is on (you'll have to then turn the set off and back on to get the high voltages to come up for a picture) or turn it on if it was off while you sprayed. Both of these ones here come right up and work fine until the next power cycle.

As a sidenote, the heatsink temperatures do vary with what is being displayed on the screen, some get hotter than others depending on the picture and while they're warm, they do stabilize so I guess that's just how they're sized. The sets here were eventually shutting down due to the inactivity timer even on an analog snow screen because they knew it was a weak/no signal condition. With a proper video signal coming in I ran them for several hours just fine. (This makes sense because when they were in operation they would both work fine if you could get them to actually power up.)

I ordered some of these ICs, I'll report back with final results when they eventually arrive but it certainly looks like this is the whole problem!

Dear Drussel
Hi, I had the same symptom on a Samsung pn60e550d1fxc, change the 3br0665jz and the set is working well since that time..Many thank's for that forum, it save me at least $300.00

[paradigm]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

How to separate the Y-Main (YSUS) board from the Y-Buffer board? There are 6 white harness clips that I cannot get apart which keep the two boards attached. I am worried that with excessive force I will break something.

My PN60E530A3F issue is that after I shut off the TV after it has run for a while (gets warm), and try to power it on again, it will not power back on unless left for at least 30 minutes.

[johns1mj]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Not saying this is the best method, however I used a wide flat screw driver. Slightly twist the driver between the boards. Do not force the boards apart. Start at one end and move it to the other between the connectors. Once the initial bond is broken they will separate easily. I had to try this several times moving the board slightly each time. The boards will "stick" because of age. You can try using a combination of a heat gun and cooling spray to shock the connectors to give up the initial bond.

[linksys1127]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

If someone has a Samsung pn60e530 plasma y-main board lj92-01859a handy and can take a picture of the red caps c5090 and c5128 near the two FETs Q5000 and Q5001. I believe the person that was removing the caps and testing theses installed them in the wrong spots. They are of different values. Thank you

[jjanssen7]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

I don't have a camera here at the moment but on my board c5128 is marked 222ks630v and c5029 is marked 102ks630v.

These are original values as far as I can tell.

If you still need pics let me know.