Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

[Wingryder]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Tried to edit above but no go. Tonight... it seems that I can hit just the two "snubbers" I think you called them and it will start. Very careful.. just hit the pair lightly. Four times in a row with a no spray try in between. I did change these earlier today as well as the 5162 but had to pull
106's from another bad board. I will order chip, and caps and try again. Bummed about the Divider failure though.

[Wingryder]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

I measured some loose 106's before spray and after spray and found in every case.. it went up. (it takes spray to start the tv. )
If the cap measured 9.5 it went up to 9.8. So I checked every 106 I had.. some from the board in question and some from a dead board and found they went from 8.2 to 9.6. Took the two highest and used them in the 5046 and 5160 slots. Then put a electrolytic 10 uf at 50 volt in the 5162 watching polarity. So far so good. Off and on half a dozen times so maybe. Have I put the back on yet.?. No way.

[jjanssen7]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Thanks for recording this. I plan to dig into (again) my PN60E530 soon so this is helpful!

[Wingryder]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Well tried it this morning and all ok. Fingers crossed. Many thanks to drussell that spent lots of effort not only digging into his own problem but helping others as well. Also thanks to Magic and others that were trying to work this out. You guys that do this for a living amaze me. I saw a post where a guy in order to find a bad component.. fed a tiny amount of dc current into the circuit in question. Frosted the components and the first one to "thaw" out was the culprit. Pretty slick. In this thread started by drussell, professionals bouncing around the same problem.. helps everyone. Big Thanks

[jjanssen7]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Not having the board in front of me, what are the 106's that proved to be your problem? Sounds like a cap front what you write but if so, which one at which location?

[Wingryder]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

These caps are the focus of this entire thread. They are 10uf at unknown voltage but presumed 25. (if you buy new go 35 or 50 ) They are marked with a 106 and they are used throughout the set. I replaced C5162 with a 10uf 50volt electrolytic with positive lead to the right (from back of set) I then replaced the C5046 and C5160 with used 106 blue caps that measured closest to 10uf using my cheapo capacitor meter. I had just swapped some from a used board without measuring and no fix. By picking the best two (closest to 10 uf rating) It worked. Without a meter just buy good quality replacements.
drussell provided a digikey link to some that will work. I don't have much patience waiting for parts. I do have a new U5014 Chip coming.. ordered before the "fix".
good luck

[jose6326]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

wingryder can i use the following cap in place of the blue caps?

http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail...0316-ND/266325


http://www.ebay.com/itm/24pcs-AVX-Di...sAAOSwPcVV1PmM

[Wingryder]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

My answer is I don't know. I would think the Tantalum ones would work but you would need confirmation of that.. from a real tech. The 10uf at 50 volt from digikey should be ok for C5162. Earlier in the thread drussell offered a link for digikey.. I would use those if your ordering from there anyway.

[jose6326]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

thanks for the input wingryder

i actually changed the ic chip on the ymain and the 3 blue caps from an old board i had lying around

but it did not fix the problem on my set
it still did not turn on

does anyone know if the blue 106 caps go in a certain direction?
i basically installed them the same way i removed the others with the 106 marking facing the same way

[Wingryder]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

The blue caps do not matter how they are inserted in the board. If you use a electrolytic in c5162 it does matter. Sounds like you might have a different problem than the Yscan voltage that is discussed here. You do not mention if the set will start if you freeze spray the circuit in question? Have you read the entire thread and done all the voltage checks mentioned? drussell states you need 18 volts at least on the right leg of c5162 to make the chip you replaced start. This will only be there for a second or so when you power up the set. If all is not fine.. the protection circuit will kick in and stop the supply voltages. Are you sure your blue caps are ok? I had about seven used ones to choose from and only two would work. (find some new ones if possible) Have you tried the voltage divider circuit that drussell built to get his going? My version did not work.. but others have had success.

[jose6326]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

wingryder

i started my own thread but i havent had any help recently
i know you guys are busy helping everyone else so i am patiently waiting

i did spray the ic chip, the blue caps, and the opto with freeze spray and nothing came on
i also put the ymain in the freezer for 5 minutes and still nothing after i reconnected it

i am ordering new 106 caps from digikey apparently i get a discount on components
they are .85cents each (if anyone needs a discount let me know we can work something out)

just need instructions on what to test next


thanks

[Wingryder]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Jose6326 Maybe you could point me to the thread in question. I did a search and found two of yours several months back. Both ended in success which is good.
Did not find the thread about the PN60E530 which this one is based on. And if chilling the Y board does not work at all.. I don't think you are chasing the same problem. Anyway.. I will give you my limited help when I find your thread.

[jjanssen7]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

He is working on a PN60E550 I believe.

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=49827

[jose6326]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

He is working on a PN60E550 I believe.

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=49827

yep thats mine

[jose6326]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

does anyone know if a cracked screen will affect any components on a ysus board?
same model tv as this post

[jjanssen7]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

I've been told that on Samsung TV's a cracked panel can damage the Buffer IC's. Or rather once the TV is cracked, the owner says "maybe it still works", tries to power up the TV and in doing so fries the Buffer Board. I can say that when I've tested cracked screen Samsungs, in many cases the buffer boards are shorted.

[Wingryder]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

But in my case.. the cracked screen did not damage any boards. The Ysus had the cap problem discussed above but that had nothing to do with the damage to the screen. I put a new upper buffer board in as the damage is in the top half. It did not remove the lines but also did not fry any boards.
Set is still going strong... about four hours a day.. for eleven days now.

[jjanssen7]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Wow, so you have a plasma with a cracked screen and it still displays an image? Cool! Buy a lottery ticket, cause your luck is running!

[poody37]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

can anyone give a picture of the cap that was changed at c5162 area to make sure the positive and negative are put in the right way

[Wingryder]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Yeah, with this series of TV there's probably a pretty good chance that all of them are faulty



Have you tried some freeze spray directly on the IC as described earlier in this thread or did you only try putting the whole Y in the freezer?



Boards out of cracked-screen plasmas can be problematic if a power-up attempt was made after the screen cracked. Boards handling power or interfacting with the panel itself, that is... A main board or some separate-style logic boards should always be OK, though.



The cap is the little blue one with the jumper wire going to it in the picture attached to post #31 in this thread. If you use an electrolytic, the + side needs to go to the right side (which is the + VCC for the IC) as viewed from the top in that photo. The other side is grounded so it is easy to verify with your multimeter that you are connecting the + to the IC's VCC pin and the - side to ground (same potential as the chassis screw holes, etc.)

I have one of these around here somewhere still I should pull out again...

P.S. Don't bother messing with the buffer boards, it's almost certainly this same Y-Main problem by the sound of your description of the problem...

Drussell answered your question earlier in the thread. (the cap is the little blue one with the jumper...etc)


Put the positive side of the capacitor in the right hole.
I have the back on my set and to be honest... with the cracked screen I am not going to even touch the set as long as it is working.