Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

[johns1mj]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

I thank everyone for their help.
I am still new to all this.
Next question. Is there a flow chart or a single post on how to check a y main board? I have tried to look for one but could not find it. Most stop at y main fault and say to replace the y main. I would like to learn to check the board further and understand its not your job to teach me.

Please point me in the right direction and thanks again.

[Inlinetwin]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

I have a similar issue here too. I tried chilling the y main board and that brought vscan into the proper range. However it will only bring up voltages when the logic board is disconnected from y main board. Is there some test that will narrow down the issue logic board or a different circuit on y main? I can add that scv_out is 60 volts. Don't know if that voltage is correct. I checked u5003 okay and replaced the u5014 chip. C5162 checks at 9.42 uf.

[Inlinetwin]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Continuing with troubleshooting, 15v_vscan jumper wire reads 180 volts. There must be a short in that circuit. The 15 volts back to x main board is okay. Additionally the 5 volts to the logic board reads only .7 volts. Seems just the y main board is bad. With the lvds connected to the y main from logic board the green led on logic board blinks every 5 seconds. Disconnect that lvds and it blinks every 1 second.

[tom66]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

15V_Vscan is 15V above Vscan, with Vscan being at -190V typically. It needs to be measured wrt to Vscan voltage, not chassis ground.

[Inlinetwin]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Okay, yep 14.89 volts.

[Inlinetwin]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Replaced c5046 and c5160 now the Vscan voltage turns on without chilling the board first. One issue down. I'm getting 5v at c5013 but 0.7 at c5133 and out to the logic board. Checked both caps good. Seems u5013 is getting only 1.1v so the problem is in that area.
I ran out of 10uf caps (there were 4 bad on the board) so I used a 10 uf electrolytic in one place that is in curcuit wit the logic chip to the lower y buffer board. I don't know if this would cause the problem or not.

[Inlinetwin]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

I was able to complete the repair by replacing the smd, S18660BA, on the back of the board. I wasn't able to find any reference to the chip but I guessed it was a logic chip. Therefore on the data and clock pins the gate should be open when turned off. I measured a high resistance value across a couple of the gates and determined it was bad. I had another y main board from a different tv with this chip so I pulled that chip (which checked okay) and replaced the bad one. The y main pn i took the chip from is lj92-01958 and is for a 2013 model tv.

The y main board is scarce for the subject tv. I hope this is helpful to anyone needing a fix on the y main. And while repairing just replace all the blue 10uf caps. All done I had 5 out if 7 that were bad.

[Ltank]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

With any Y board check the resistance from positive to gnd. It should be at minimum 2k ohms .Then check all mosfets , transistors, diodes, and capacitors for shorts. Mosfets are generally in parallel, will need to be unsoldering and checked.
Shorted items don't always show obvious signs of damage or a burnt smell. Sorry I did not read the whole 4 pages before typing.
I see that earlier post went over these checks. But reinforcement of these checks don't hurt.

[shawnvanlaecke]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

So i am new to the TV repair industry. I had the same as the origional issue with sound but no pic. pulled the back cover off, froze the Y main for 10 min and it came on.

I am trying to figure out what i need to do now to get it to work every time, do i need to have someone replace the blue C5162 thing? (i assume this is something that i can not due myself)

Thanks in advance for the help and sorry i am TV stupid and need it broke to lamens terms.

[Inlinetwin]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

When I replaced the c5046 and c5160 Vscan would rise to the proper voltage without chilling the board first. These are small capacitors and basic soldering skills should be sufficient to perform the work.

[shawnvanlaecke]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

and where would i be able to buy these vscan? i did a quick search and that must not be the proper term for them cause i couldn't find anything.

Thanks in advance.

Happy Canada Day. (or July 4th for the ones to the south)

[shawnvanlaecke]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

and do you know what volt these Capacitor's would be.. there are no less the 1,000 different varieties.

[shawnvanlaecke]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

What about c5162 which everyone was originally talking about. ?? Should I change that one out too. Still waiting on how and where to buy these.

Thanks

[Inlinetwin]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

As you can see I've only made 7 posts, so I am new to this as well. 10uf poly capacitor at 250 volts rated should be acceptable for all the blue radial lead capacitors. In the states, digikey or mouser are good sources. I don't know where to go in Canada. The capacitors will run you about 3 dollars each, it would be a good idea just to replace them all, there are 7 I think.

[shawnvanlaecke]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

i googled the info that you gave me but nothing that came up looks anything like the blue ones that are on it now. can you cut and paste me a link to one that i would be able to order.

sorry i think i am even newer then you are at this.

[shawnvanlaecke]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

any help before i am forced to take this to the repair shop and pay hundreds of $$ to have them put in new capacitors???

thanks in advance.

[drussell]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

any help before i am forced to take this to the repair shop and pay hundreds of $$ to have them put in new capacitors???

If freezing that area of your Y-Main makes the TV come on, your problem is likely with the ICE3BR0665 chip itself or C5162. Since the chip is difficult to obtain, try everything you can with the capacitors first to see if they're the problem.

The first thing you could try, which doesn't even require obtaining more capacitors, is to switch some of them around. Try swapping the one at C5162 for one of the other ones marked "106" which are all the same. There are dozens of them in the TV, just make sure you're actually swapping ones that all say "106" (10 uF) on them as there are other similar looking ones with different values in there as well. The circuit where C5162 is located is very sensitive to a leaky capacitor and these may simply be breaking down and leaking a bit as the voltage rises, so try swapping them around from various places to see if you can get a better one in the critical positions.

I can't recall right now if those other couple close to the IC are potentially involved in the problem or not but you could always try switching a bunch around and see if you can find working positions for them. Note, however, that I tried swapping a couple and it didn't work but it is easily worth a shot if you don't have any others on hand.

10uf poly capacitor at 250 volts rated should be acceptable for all the blue radial lead capacitors. In the states, digikey or mouser are good sources. I don't know where to go in Canada.

These are not poly capacitors. These are simple, cheap ceramic capacitors. They have a very small size because they are of a multilayer design instead of a single disc that you would think of as a traditional ceramic capacitor.

A plastic film capacitor would work, of course, but is total overkill in this application and would be very large, physically.

The capacitor at C5162 could even be replaced with a quality electrolytic capacitor but you must observe the polarity if you choose that option whereas with the ceramic capacitors, polarity doesn't matter. This is detailed earlier in the thread.

Mouser is rather expensive to Canada for small orders. Digikey is much better, $8 flat rate next-day shipping for orders under $200 and free shipping for over $200. I use them all the time. An order placed by 8pm my time still arrives the next morning. You even get Canadian pricing on digikey.ca and they take care of customs, etc. The stuff just shows up the next morning.

Unfortunately we don't know the voltage rating of the original caps but the one at C5162 sees close to 25v on it and they may well have skimped and used 25v capacitors which would explain them going bad, so I'd suggest using 50v versions (which are significantly more expensive and why I'd just use an electrolytic) but if you'd like to replace any of them with a similar multilayer ceramic, I can't imagine any of them seeing higher than 50v, this would be a suitable part:

http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail...465-ND/2815395

$1.42 is insane for a 10uF capacitor (although at 10-99 quantity they're $1.11 ea so might as well order at least 10) when an electrolytic is like $0.25-0.50, however, they did use ceramic capacitors in there for some reason and while the one at C5162 may be substituted with an electrolytic, other ones on the board might not be. I've not reverse-engineered the entire board!

Standard cost-reduction procedure for assembly includes reducing the parts count on your BOM so they probably just use the same parts wherever possible to get the best possible price on a bulk-buy of the component and reduce the number of different components that must be loaded into the pick-and-place machine during board assembly. They may not be the best type for any particular position, rather chosen for cost-cutting reasons. Without essentially reverse-engineering the whole thing and re-designing with my own choices, I can't say for certain.

I also assume these were DIRT CHEAP, crap-quality capacitors so it's no wonder they end up messing up a sensitive circuit.

[shawnvanlaecke]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Well, I broke down and bought a new Y main board from a retailer in my town (London ont),and the TV has a new life. But I was told that Samsung has discontinued these boards and I have looked everywhere and no one has them. So if one of you guys who has fixed them before want one that needs a new compassitor let me know and we can work something out.

[kirsod]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Hello,
I have been following this and other threads concerning the Samsung pn60e55o having sound but no picture.
I did all of the voltage tests to the best of my ability and freeze sprayed the chip and capacitor and would then get a picture so I came to the conclusion that I should replace the IC chip and capacitor at c5162, but in the process I think I messed up the y main board due to over heating the connection spots where the chip connects when I tried to solder the new chip.
My question is if I try to make the voltage divider, will this bypass the IC chip?
And if so can someone please explain to me step by step how to do this?
From drussell's photo it looks like he ran 2 wires from the capacitor at c5162, one wire to the VS and the other to the ground.
I am knew to electronic repair and I am very grateful of what I have learned so far from everyone here and I am very appreciative.
Thank you

[Wingryder]

Re: Stumped on Samsung PN60E530A3F

Since they wanted all their TVs up and working for football, I did a temporary hack job yesteday to make these sets able turn on until the ICE3BR0665J chips arrive.

I made a voltage divider using about 120K ohm (needs to be at least a 0.5 W) from the Vs to a piece of wire and also to about 13K to ground (0.25 W is fine), heat shrinked it up and connected the wire to the VCC of the PWM controller. Check to be sure you don't get more than the 25V maximum rating of the controller chip before you connect it to the chip's VCC at the capacitor, the jumper or the VCC pin itself. It measured just over 20V here but will depend on your Vs voltage and the exact resistors used.

This charges up the VCC capacitor to above the 18v turn-on threshold regardless of the flakey precharge supply in the chip and makes the TVs come on first try. Not the best permanent solution but really shouldn't matter either.



At least it works.

drussell I know this is back a few months.. but having the exact same problems with my 6oe530 . No one component on that Y board trouble area will turn on the tv, but a hit in general area always will.(and it stays on) Changed out the three blue caps.. no change. And I don't understand this. I used your divider hack and with 23 volts to the right leg of controller cap. Nothing. The 23 volts falls off immed due to Vs supply shutting down but it's there at first turn on. (Vs supply around 240 before it shuts down) Did you ever come to any conclusions about this?

Thanks
Wingryder