On these LG T-CONs, in addition to 12v, you also need to supply 3.3v to a specific point on the T-CON or move a specific smd resistor to put it into test mode (color selection), but I don’t know what and how about this T-CON
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No need 3.3V, it had SPI U1 Pin 8 should have 3.3V you can measure it when you supply 12V to F1 as T-CON Panel standalone test... much like Panel VCC at thin film have brocken some where need deep investigated before play with SoCComment
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I couldn't find any damage on or around the connection of the panel
I felt like this TV had a million of screws to get to the panel.Comment
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How is it not necessary? You need to supply these 3.3v, which are converted into T-CON via a jumper, to a specific point and thus the controller goes into test mode!Comment
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no need to feed 3.3V i asked him to measure just in case if T_CON PWM didn't generate it.. we have in this forum same T-CON and it start to do color pattern just with 12V.
this why i asked him to inspect LCD Glass before going to GPUComment
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I'm probably gonna get a second TV, exact same model. I will switch parts then and see which one is at fault. So I can repair both of them.
Thanks for your help and knowledge! I really appreciate it.Comment
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There have been cases of poor soldering of these connectors on the buffer strips. Inspect carefully with a magnifying glass to see if there are any bad soldering (cracks) between the connector pins and the board.Attached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
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its 0.1% will be soldering crack at ribbon socket at panel or T-COn, but it could be the clip expanded and didn't make enough pressure to hold ribbon in place,,, but this also unlike unless the ribbon contact pins damaged because of the age and heat when user disconnect them many time.
still i think need to inspect the corners of the LCD with out Bezel if there damage at glass edge.Comment
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this tv is throwing me for a loop. do samsung tvs no longer have the backlight self test feature built into the power supply?
i tested the backlight with my LED tester and it lights up both strips. one of them reads 100v and the other reads 63.7v.
unplugged mainboard from power supply but left backlight plugged in, and then plugged psu wall power in. expected to see backlights light up but see nothing.
according to how ive diagnosed in the past, this would almost always be a bad power supply. replacement power supply was cheap like 20$ from ebay. but still i get not even... -
Hi, I have a Samsung UE50TU with:
- sound and backlight, but no picture
- when it arrived, it had a picture for a few seconds
- it keeps rebooting
- without ribbon cable between the two panel boards, it does not reboot but I have no picture
- without cable between mainboard and lcd panel, it does not reboot (but obviously i have no picture)
- when i try a tape fix, its keeps rebooting, unless I tape off pin 1 (the innermost pin). In that case it does not reboot but I have no picture.
- without cable between mainboard and lcd panel and with a jumpered... -
overnight my philips is 2 years old but unfortunately it is no longer under warranty.. started joking..
the picture became black.. but the next day when I turned it on, I still saw a little something... But now it's just black..
the backlight works normally.. the sound too.. the motherboard also shows that it is ok..
I suspect a T-Con panel. Do you think the panel is shorted?
below I am sending you a video about my TV and how it behaves.
I also tried disconnecting the ribbon cables. first the left one, then the right one.. but I can't find out if the panel has... -
I have a 60 inch Samsung UN60EH6000F flatscreen TV. The screen went black a few months ago Sound is good, backlight is good, no menu. I replaced the TCon board with a used board purchased from Ebay. It worked fine for a 3-4 months, then the screen started ‘fading' back. Once again, sound is good, backlight is good, no menu. However, this time the picture looks fine for about 10-15 minutes, then fades back. If I power cycle the TV, the display reappears, for another 10-15 minutes, then fades black again. Repeatable ever time.
I ordered a supposedly ‘new' Tcon board this time, and... -
So i'm trying to replace the LED's in a Philips TV. It's 42" with a 715g7262-p01-000-0010 backlight driver board based around an O2 Micro OZ9902CGN.
My issue is when I replace all the LED's on one board with the new 3V 300ma ones they immediately burn out when the set is powered again. I previously tried the same thing with 6V LED's and the backlight flickered for a bit but wouldn't start.
The original LED's which I removed which are still working start to melt and burn when given more than 3V on DCPS so I know they shouldn't be higher voltage ones.
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