Samsung UE70TU6905 BACKLIGHTS AND SOUND ON NO PICTURES BUT SCREEN NOT DARK

[Diah]

I have tried several codes there must be a specific code for this series of Samsung

they are all the same over this shit samy..... yours T.CON on boards didn't start and the issue at Dc DC converter

[bohaboha]

if it response to RC then try my post 54 56 ..... and check the LVDS socket which pin have 3.3V

I have tried several codes there must be a specific code for this series of Samsung

[Diah]

if it response to RC then try my post 54 56 ..... and check the LVDS socket which pin have 3.3V

[bohaboha]

check yours RC if it blink with yours mobile camera... easy method.. here are the diagram of the socket

When I press on on the RC STBY goes out and returns directly in the same position as if it can't start the TV so the RC works.
I have managed to get rid of the black heatsink.
thanks for the chart but it's not exactly the same because on my kontact pin 6,16,19 and 20 are free(not used) plus I only have a start button

[bohaboha]

check the RC with mobile camera

The RC is responding

[Diah]

check the RC with mobile camera

[Diah]

on lvds 3 and 4 have 0.4v 0.8v
Pin 7 seems to be short but there is 3.353 on1 and 3.15 on pin 4 then i have 5.191 on pin 12 3.381 on pin 13 then 3..313 on pin15

3.3V will generate one time only it used also by TV RC of the wifi / BT module... as well the IR so any one have short will kill this rail

[bohaboha]

PIn 7 at STB 5V ... LVDS 3 ,4 3.3V when Tv on

on lvds 3 and 4 have 0.4v 0.8v
Pin 7 seems to be short but there is 3.353 on1 and 3.15 on pin 4 then i have 5.191 on pin 12 3.381 on pin 13 then 3..313 on pin15

[Diah]

check yours RC if it blink with yours mobile camera... easy method.. here are the diagram of the socket

[Diah]

please can you point out the socket CN1101 and can i dot it only on stand by?

PIn 7 at STB 5V ... LVDS 3 ,4 3.3V when Tv on

[bohaboha]

so you don't have 5V on the socket i mentioned before...... MB replacement or the chip i mentioned to change

please can you point out the socket CN1101 and can i dot it only on stand by?

[Diah]

so you don't have 5V on the socket i mentioned before...... MB replacement or the chip i mentioned to change

[bohaboha]

only the point of service menu need to do it from STBY all other i wrote should the TV on.

did the Tv response to RC ?

-the TV does not respond to RC

[Diah]

i did but no answer the tv does not want to start allways on STBY

only the point of service menu need to do it from STBY all other i wrote should the TV on.

did the Tv response to RC ?

[bohaboha]

you just play as described the 2 steps.. both no need any on screen... we just do it to see if the screen turn on and display some thimgs

i did but no answer the tv does not want to start allways on STBY

[nomoresonys]

I'm with you Diah, best to test everything possible. Here's the general idea of a simple reflow, using liquid flux on three sides of chip is advised and some type of accurate heat meter and some protective tape or cutout tin foil to protect any small components from blowing away or getting de-soldered: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FU84qGSdE-s

[Diah]

yes, but before we go to reflow , need another testing... just in case we don't like some things going wrong with reflow then we lost.

1- on socket CN1101 i think which it go to Wifi /BT front control LED... on pin 7 need to test if we have 5V
2- on LVDS socket CN1300 i think... pin 3, 4 if there 3.3V... if no V. need to turn off disconnect LVDS and test the both pin with chassis if they are shorted. , if you have 3.3V then good news do following
3- mask the pins on LVDS at MB side 12,13,14,15,16,17,18,18 , see if you get PICTURE. no picture remove the mask and so as nomoresonys suggested.

[nomoresonys]

Do Diah's tests, if no joy, maybe just use some heat from a hairdryer and gently twist the heatsink off the processor, then do a diy reflow, involves getting the solder under the chip melted so it can reattach to the chip. Pretty straight forward, there's some good how to videos on youtube. Must be careful not to overheat or it will kill the chip, not enough heat and nothing bad will happen, it just won't work is all. They recommend gradual heating then gradually take heat away so as not to thermal shock the chip. Using a temperature gauge would be advised. Need to be extra careful not to blow away or lose any of those little components nearby such as those pesky little mlc caps. Here's a rough idea of the procedure using minimal tools. If one must use a heatgun be very careful with the temps, a lot of them were not meant for the lower temps needed for this kind of work, hot air stations are a much better tool for the job: https://www.instructables.com/BGA-rework/

[Diah]

forget to write... we do have another test for T-CON try while TV on MUTE 3 6 9 Mute

[Diah]

Hi can not se anything on screen to handle it with the remote control

you just play as described the 2 steps.. both no need any on screen... we just do it to see if the screen turn on and display some thimgs