Sony KD-60X6700E not turning on

[lotas]

I pulled up a leg on each (just to rule out any other variables) - D660A appears to be short.

Well, replace it, or better yet, two at once and I hope that your TV will work.

[Davi.p]

"appears" or IS?

[lotas]

The markings on it are: SR206 734Y

SR206 - Schottky Diodes 2A, 60V

[sabretooth]

"appears" or IS?

It was an expression, but yes that's what my meter tells me.

Well, replace it, or better yet, two at once and I hope that your TV will work.

Fantastic - thankyou. I'm hoping it's that simple!

Once I've done it, I'll report back on how it went.

[lotas]

When installing new diodes. Observe their polarity (anode-cathode).

[R_J]

Good to hear you found the problem, knowing that R601 was ok, so ic600 is likely ok as well. checking the secondary diodes was the next components to check so replacing them should fix the standby supply.

[Diah]

however its unusual 5V circuit D660A get shorted..,
1- there are over load at MB DC tp DC circuit
2- SMD parts on downside carefully test them. if there one have leak and make overload.

[Davi.p]

I see various ceramic caps at valley of faulty diodes, better to check them also..

[lotas]

These Schottky diodes in secondary power supplies burn out just like that (not only in Sony, but also in Samsung, Lg,...), not often, but they burn (turned it off in the evening, the TV doesn’t turn on in the morning), just like ceramic ones capacitors - they just short out, replace them with new ones and everything works..

[Diah]

These Schottky diodes in secondary power supplies burn out just like that (not only in Sony, but also in Samsung, Lg,...), not often, but they burn (turned it off in the evening, the TV doesn't turn on in the morning),.

comm on we do have many stay over night or 2-5 days in STBY .... LOL... this is never being the cause.... only over load.from MB or its self circuit
if he check the 5V pin on MB with ref TV chassis he will find low resistances
in General Diode will be active in side it material only if there are Load at end of out put

[Diah]

on other hand... lotas you found fault... and my talking on why this fault happen.... if there are issue as i mentioned before we are going to roasted complete TV.

the cleverness here at any one want or like to be repair of electronic.. when he find fault... before he repair it by replacement, should know and discover why this happen... at least this is my method & WAY

[lotas]

I already wrote that they can short out just like that and not because of motherboard overload, why they short out SMD ceramic capacitors and everyone is looking for the reason why they burn, the components do not have a lifetime service life, they are not eternal...

[Diah]

I already wrote that they can short out just like that and not because of motherboard overload, why they short out SMD ceramic capacitors and everyone is looking for the reason why they burn, the components do not have a lifetime service life, they are not eternal...

i can answer this questions... SMD ceramic they shorted for 2 reasons. 1- quality .. 2 - over clock Freq. and this most happened because of the first point of bad quality material.

but still the questions .. unusual 5V circuit D660A get shorted.... some one work or tested in wrong way .... or some one play to MB.... from alone as RAW fault never never happened and will never happen. point.

[lotas]

Now, if OP replaces these diodes and when turned on, whatever the diode closes again, then we need to look for the reason, and maybe there is a defect in the transition of the crystal, a pulse current that exceeds its characteristics...

[Diah]

Now, if OP replaces these diodes and when turned on, whatever the diode closes again, then we need to look for the reason, and maybe there is a defect in the transition of the crystal, a pulse current that exceeds its characteristics...

my friend... you are correct in way if there are no more fault and STBY TV work.... but if the Diode fly out again it will fly with it many others...
this could not happens... but any one should avoid expressive repair when the fault just few cents coast..... test ... test... look for reason..

[lotas]

If the diode fails, then the same thing will happen, the PWM will go into protection and there will be no voltage at the output, but let’s hope that everything will be fine.

[Diah]

If the diode fails, then the same thing will happen, the PWM will go into protection and there will be no voltage at the output, but let's hope that everything will be fine.

PWM no protection here. transformer will eat it and .. the Optocouplers between hot / Cold will be the first victim to deliver RAW.... now we have the begin of horror movies

[sabretooth]

As a result of your discussion and suggestions, I did some more poking around that valley of surface mount components. The two 20R0 resistors there (R660A, R660B), are reading 10ohm each (I haven't removed them from the board).

I assume to the right of those are caps - C660A, C660B. I'm not getting anything from these in diode mode - yet the other caps in the area are showing a reading. So are these caps dead too, or do I need to measure them differently?

For what it's worth, I've owned this TV since new and I'm the first person to open it up.


If the caps are dead too, I'm not sure what I'd replace them with. I assume I'd need a schematic or a donor board?

Speaking financially, there aren't a lot of options where I live for replacement components. I can get a pack of diodes for $11. I can also get a replacement power supply board for $42, so I'm tempted just to go that route. Is there anything I should check on the main board that might be causing issues on the power supply board? Or would I be safe to replace the power supply board?

[lotas]

As a result of your discussion and suggestions, I did some more poking around that valley of surface mount components. The two 20R0 resistors there (R660A, R660B), are reading 10ohm each (I haven't removed them from the board).

I assume to the right of those are caps - C660A, C660B. I'm not getting anything from these in diode mode - yet the other caps in the area are showing a reading. So are these caps dead too, or do I need to measure them differently?

For what it's worth, I've owned this TV since new and I'm the first person to open it up.


If the caps are dead too, I'm not sure what I'd replace them with. I assume I'd need a schematic or a donor board?

Speaking financially, there aren't a lot of options where I live for replacement components. I can get a pack of diodes for $11. I can also get a replacement power supply board for $42, so I'm tempted just to go that route. Is there anything I should check on the main board that might be causing issues on the power supply board? Or would I be safe to replace the power supply board?

Resistors with a resistance of 20 Ohm are connected in parallel and will show 10 Ohm each. Capacitors will not show anything on the multimeter unless they are shorted. Install new diodes and turn on the TV, otherwise you will read horror stories about how many times you have repaired such breakdowns, not when there were no returns for the same reason.

[Davi.p]

Too much Ambulance stories here for me, it was enough to say replace diodes (we know smd are ok) and test first the PSB alone , also with no loads, then attach to the rest if ok, no risks, no ambulance crysis.. ahah..

PS: every SMPS on the globe is protected to the short circuits, here we are at basic school..
If the tv does not boot, then the fault reason is all clear, power spike damaged both PSB and MB..