Update time! So the only diodes I could get quickly were 20A versions, and a quick suggests this is OK to do. So I ordered those, whacked them in and the TV works! I'm going to run it for a while to make sure it stays happy, but so far so good.
Also, I missed disconnecting the ribbon cable that goes to the IR receiver, and damaged the end of the cable, breaking a trace. I cut off the broken bit, and was carefully able to shave the ribbon cable's top layer and expose the traces again. All 100% now.
Thanks everyone for your input.
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As a result of your discussion and suggestions, I did some more poking around that valley of surface mount components. The two 20R0 resistors there (R660A, R660B), are reading 10ohm each (I haven't removed them from the board).
I assume to the right of those are caps - C660A, C660B. I'm not getting anything from these in diode mode - yet the other caps in the area are showing a reading. So are these caps dead too, or do I need to measure them differently?
For what it's worth, I've owned this TV since new and I'm the first person to open it up.
If...
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It was an expression, but yes that's what my meter tells me.
Fantastic - thankyou. I'm hoping it's that simple!
Once I've done it, I'll report back on how it went....
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I pulled up a leg on each (just to rule out any other variables) - D660A appears to be short.
The markings on it are: SR206 734Y
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They are both short! Assuming I don't have to pull a leg on them first, my multimeter is beeping regardless of polarity on both of them. Are these being short the cause, or the symptom?
R601 appears to be orange, black (or brown?), gold, gold with a green tolerance stripe. Regardless, I'm really dumb, and misread what my meter was telling me. It's 3.2ohm on R601. Not 1mil....
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Shows as a diode with positive lead on 3, negative lead on 8. If I swap the leads, it shows as open.
So I lifted a leg on R601. Measures 1m ohm across. Checked ZD601 - shows a reading one way, and open the other....
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I've done some looking, as well as digging through some parts I have lying around, An old monitor's power supply doesn't have that particular IC, and no matches in other boxes of bits.I see a few places online that I can order from, but nothing local.
So do you reckon that IC is our smoking gun?
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Thanks! So using the schematic as a reference (the chip is [URL="https://www.semicon.sanken-ele.co.jp/ctrl/en/product/category/AcDcConverter/detail/?product=STR-A6069H"]one of these - an A6069H[/URL]), I measured IC601 (you guys mean IC601 and not IC600, right? I can't see an IC600) between 5 and 8 in diode mode. In that mode I get a very brief blip before the meter goes to open. If I swap my probes around, the same thing happens.Thanks! So using the schematic as a reference (the chip is [URL="https://www.semicon.sanken-ele.co.jp/ctrl/en/product/category/AcDcConverter/detail/?product=STR-A6069H"]one
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R600 is showing at 100k ohm - unless you meant something else?
It's probably hard to tell from the angle of the picture, but the burn mark is actually one of the "EC"s you can see printed on various parts of the board....
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In the absence of advice, I have the following more targeted questions:[LIST][*]If there's no power at any of the pins on the right hand side of the secondary side of the power supply, does that necessarily mean the power supply is dead? Are there other obvious places I can look for readings that might tell me if the power supply is dead?[/LIST]I don't see any bulging/leaking caps. I don't know where to use as ground, and given there's mains voltages involved, I'm hesitant to go poking around. I'd seen guides that said to use the negative leg of the big capacitor, but I see three big capacitors...
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Sony KD-60X6700E not turning on
Hi all,
I have a Sony Bravia KD-60X6700E which has decided to stop working. To describe the symptoms - it just decided to stop powering on one morning. No standby LED, no sounds, no picture, no startup logo - nothing. Doesn't respond to the remote nor the physical power button on the unit.
I have tested the power cable for continuity. I have also tested the fuse, and that too, has continuity. However I haven't gotten much further with the probing. I've prodded the secondary side of the power supply where the connector connects to the main board, and there's no voltage...4 Photos
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Re: Yamaha RX-V581 going into protection mode
Where/how would I find the rails?
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Re: Yamaha RX-V581 going into protection mode
I did some retesting - results attached. Main differences were with D2113 to D2116.
Bearing in mind SL seemed to work OK, and SR has 50v on it - does anything in those results leap out as wrong?...
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Re: Yamaha RX-V581 going into protection mode
Unfortunately, I never did. The amp lies dormant on a shelf taking up space, still.
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Re: Yamaha RX-V581 going into protection mode
Taking a different approach, if I were to power the unit on in protection override mode, what would be some useful points to probe for voltages at?
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Re: Yamaha RX-V581 going into protection mode
I have a bit of an update on this one. TLDR: Haven't got anywhere.
After leaving the opened amp on the kitchen table for countless months, I finally summoned the motivation and plan to try tackling this again - not for lack of interest, but ability/plan.
From page 120 of the manual, I listed every component that I could see as being part of the "SR" circuit. I then stuck my multimeter on each component that I'd listed. For resistors, I used ohms, and for caps and diodes, I used diode mode. For each...
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Re: Yamaha RX-V581 going into protection mode
I've done some probing around, using the attached page as a starting point. Measurements all taken with the unit turned off. Here's what I've found so far:
R2162 – 7.7k instead of 10k
R2156 – 84k instead of 270k
C2142 – 400-420
C2131 – 400-420
R2141 – 33K
R2113 – 33k
R2133 - 1200
C2106 – no short, don't remember value
R2106 – 1k
C2118 – no short, don't remember value
C2119 - 1960
R2121 – 1.8k
...
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Re: Yamaha RX-V581 going into protection mode
I'm able to get that reading because I'm using the protection mode bypass of holding down Tone + Info as I hold the power button to turn it on.
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Re: Yamaha RX-V581 going into protection mode
So I pulled the entire unit apart - detaching the heatsink and everything, only to see I didn't need to do that, and that here's a way to expose the underside and get a multimeter on everything. So I've put it all back together with the intention of strictly following the service manual to expose the underside and get some running voltages off of it.
And I don't know if this gives anyone any pointers as to where I should start looking, but I'm seeing -19.5v on the SR channel when sticking the multimeter on the SR terminals....
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Re: Yamaha RX-V581 going into protection mode
Photo of the underside attached.
How do you go about getting it assembled and still being able to take measurements? Those resistors are under two boards so I expect this is going to be tricky....
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