Quick repair summary for those interested. I had a Hisense 58R6E3 TV that had backlights working but no picture. T-Con had 12V supply but some of the supplies on the board were 0V. Unplugging one of flat cables to the LCD display driver boards brought the supplies back up, so I figured it was a short on the LCD panel driver board. Narrowed the short down to the 15V power supply by checking the coils on the T-Con board to ground with a diode test and confirmed that all the MLCC caps on that rail all showed a short to ground. I injected 5V/1A into the 15V rail on the driver board (T-Con disconnected) then used a thermal camera to find the shorted capacitor. Removed it and didn't bother replacing it since there are many caps in parallel on that rail . . . ."no capacitor, no shorted capacitor" as Sorin likes to say. Back to working.
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Hi, I'm Daniel, and I'm new to the world of repairing motherboards.
I would like to create a table, or more likely a guideline about the voltage rails and their possible resistance rail.
I know that the motherboard design has a very big depend on the rail's resistance, but I would like to know what is the smallest value for a rail that can be acceptable. For example, I heard that some new gaming motherboards can have 0,5 Ohm resistance on the GPU rail, but on an older type, it could be a sign of a shorted GPU rail.
So, I generated a table with AI so I can... -
I'm working on a Hisense 58” R6E3 $398 Walmart special Roku TV. I picked it up free as the previous owner just said the picture went black so I assumed I'd be doing LED strip repairs. As it turns out the backlight is working fine, the TV responds to remote signals as I can here the typical Roku menu sound effects. My first thought after some typical voltage checks was a bad t-con board so I ordered an eBay damaged set pull for $5. Swapped it out and no change.
Before I order a replacement main board, I wanted to see if anyone else had seen similar issues with this set? I pulled... -
Hi guys! I realized you have a lot of knowledge here so i am hoping you could point me in right direction with my odd issue.
The Tv is a Philips 58PUS8545/12, it had no picture but working backlights.
Original T-con:
Opened the Tv and tested to unplug one ribbon cable at a time. With this test i could see that i got fine picture on both halves as long as there was only one ribbon cable connected, with two connected picture were gone.
First replacement T-con:
I thought it might be t-con and ordered new t-con from china(supposedly tested)... -
I replaced the backlights on this Hisense TV and the LEDs were showing on certain images. Drove me nuts, so pulled it apart, got new LEDs and put it back together. Now I don't have a picture. TV came apart very easily both times and I was very carful with the panel. I've replaced all the boards for good measure and still have the same issue. Unhooking either side of TCON board still gives me a blank screen with backlights and sound. Is it really possible the panel is junk just from taking it off with suction cups and gently placing it back in place? -
This was my main TV for the last 6 years. I'm not inclined to throw out a $2600 TV so quickly so I'm trying to investigate the issue.
Problem
TV was disconnected from power for 6 months during construction. When I plugged it yesterday picture was fine, after 30 seconds it dimmed then started developing horizontal lines, picture then starts to ghost vertically until it degrades into vertical streaks. TV always displays a perfect picture when cold. I can unplug TV for 5 minutes and plug it back in and picture is restored for 20 seconds. I can also keep it in standby mode...
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