petersor
Member
Last Activity: 03-10-2025, 01:11 PM
Joined: 02-23-2020
Location: ANN ARBOR
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Updated the firmware on the 24C512 with your file and it's still not working. I'll try the 25Q80 file at some point, but I'm going to shelf this project for now. I started restoring a Pioneer SX-1010 recently and I want to spend time on that. Thanks again for your help. I'll revisit this post when I pick this project back up. -
Thanks. I'll give them a try when I get back home . . . travelling this weekend.Leave a comment:
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lotas[USER="169795"]lotas[/USER] were you able to find anything in the 24C512 dump?Leave a comment:
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Here's the data from the 24C512 eeprom . . . [ATTACH]n3581336[/ATTACH]...Leave a comment:
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Thanks anyway. It was a good learning exercise and I appreciate all your help. Guess this one is destined for the landfill....Leave a comment:
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lotas[USER="169795"]lotas[/USER] - any thoughts on this? Anything else to look at before I scrap it?Leave a comment:
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Reflowed the crystals and processor . . . no change. Maybe one of the boost or buck converters? They appear to be proprietary Samsung ICs so not much else to do at this point, I think. I suppose I could try reflowing those - especially IC401 / VLS1R0A. Voltages are wrong around that one . . . maybe I have a board with that IC on it. to try swapping it out.
[ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","data-attachmentid":3577095}[/ATTACH]...Leave a comment:
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Panel number is CY-GK050HGAV5HLeave a comment:
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I'll check the panel number when I get back to the house tomorrow. I'll try reflowing the crystals first and if that doesn't help, I'll try the main processor . . ....Leave a comment:
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Voltages and resistances are the same with the jumper in place.
[ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"medium","data-attachmentid":3573307}[/ATTACH]...Leave a comment:
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OK. I'll add the jumper back and test again. Thanks for your patience.Leave a comment:
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Correct - no jumper.Leave a comment:
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here are the voltage and resistance reading I measured:
[ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","data-attachmentid":3572525}[/ATTACH]...Leave a comment:
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Thanks. I'll take a look tomorrow.Leave a comment:
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lotas[USER="169795"]lotas[/USER] - Anything else I can try on this board or is it unrepairable?Leave a comment:
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One other possible clue - The audio amplifier IC (TAS5749M) has a warm, not hot, spot in one corner . . . .that comes and goes as the board powers up and down.
[ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","data-attachmentid":3570176}[/ATTACH]...Leave a comment:
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I hooked a 13V power supply up to the main board and measured voltages on the coils - some are steady and some drop to 0 as the board power cycles. . . . The board was not connected to the TV when I took the measurements. Not sure if this is helpful
[ATTACH=JSON]{"alt":"Click image for larger version Name:\tCoil Voltages.jpg Views:\t0 Size:\t3.12 MB ID:\t3570111","data-align":"none","data-attachmentid":"3570111","data-size":"full"}[/ATTACH]...Leave a comment:
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No change with WiFi disconnected - The jumper is still installed on the LVDS - should I remove that?
The LAN IC (0524P) doesn't have any shorts (except the center pin 3 which is the ground pin . . ....Leave a comment:
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No shorts on the data lines. With the jumper in place, the behavior of the TV is the same with both LVDS connected, left connected only, right connected only and both disconnected . . . 1-2 second flash of the standby light with about 15 ~ 18 seconds between flashes. Same as before.
RichLeave a comment:
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Got it. Thanks for the clarification. I'll give that a try today.
RichLeave a comment:
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