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Ok, I found them. When I turned it up to higher 180's it became more pixelated. When I turned it down to 160's the picture would clear up and not do its static pulsating thing. The only thing I have to test with is an old xbox and when playing a game now it is clear as can be with none of this pulsating. But, when I pause the game it is doing the static pulsating thing (which previously when it was a still picture it didn't do it but when moving it did). Not a huge deal, making progress. Any idea why lowering the recommended voltage is helped somewhat? Worth tweaking the VA?
Partially true anyway. The static still exists every now and then even when turned down low. One other thing to note, I checked the ZSUS heat sink and it is so hot I can't even touch it after 10 minutes of usage or so, does that seem normal?
I re-used what was on the heat sink which there was a generous amount but it was not new. I can try to rig up some fans or something on it to rule it out for now if you think that would be helpful.
I really don't think it's going to make a difference in the picture quality you're having but they're still could be an underlying issue on the ZSUS board. but it definitely looks like an adjustment issue. when I get a TV and sometimes people like to play inside and you never know what they turn
ya on the VS (187) and VA (65) I have them set. It is very flickery when I have them set to this but figure the adjustment must be somewhere else since these are set correctly.
My concern is I wonder if I screwed up the Z-SUS board when I heat it up to get the old IPM off. I also had to re-solder a few pieces back on that board that fell off when it was heated. I am fairly certain I got everything on there good though so wouldn't think that would be the issue. I just wonder if there is a way to at least rule this work out one way or another so I know if I did that right or wrong.
This is sounding more like a problem with the Asus you repaired. Might want.to find out the waveform coming from the sis with an oscilloscope if possible. Since you have the service manual.
Wow my spelling was horrible left there. I meant zsus. Lol. I'd hate to see you buy an oscilloscope if your only using it for that purpose. It would be cheaper to find another known working board.
Did you say the screen was flickering when. You set the voltages from the power supply to the reference label on the panel?
What worries me.most is that you said there were pieces it fell off the board and you had to resolder them back on. were any of those pieces possibly a diode? Because if one of them were then you put it on backwards that could cause severe issue
From experience with the V6, the IPM temperature after 10 minutes in a coolish room is just barely warm.
After an hour or two, it'll pretty warm--but not burning hot, easy to keep hand on it, prob around 40 deg C
I have a skeletonised V6 at work on the end of the bench as a sort of exhibit. Its not got a great panel--has green dot syndrome, but its just for decoration more than anything.
(Plus I get to watch telly at work!)
I repaired another set, a Goodmans with the V6 panel, that had a shot X-SUS IPM, no picture at all, blown Vs fuse...
The same sort of temperature range was observed when I replaced the IPM and got that one working.
The IPM on Y-SUS gets a bit hotter than on X-SUS--then again its a bigger part anyway, but neither should be too hot to touch after an hour...
--I did replace all the 33 and 68uF caps around the three 15V regulators on the Y-SUS of both sets, these 15V rails supply amongst other things the IPM switching drive voltage and if low can cause the IPM to get hot/fail.....
--There's only 6 of 'em and easy to change, might as well do them, Use 100uF 35 or 50V to replace the hideous S.M. ones the makers used.....
Yeah, when the voltage was set it was somewhat pixelated. When turned down it was quite a bit better. I will take a picture of the pieces that fell out but I am certain I have them back in right as the old board I bought from ebay the guy didn't want back and just let me keep it so I was able to use it for a comparison.
I'm not too worried about buying the oscilloscope. I know this TV isn't worth much but, in a weird way I think this is kind of fun trying to learn something new. But, I worry I am going to annoy you all asking questions, hopefully that doesnt happen
Alastair - I will look at replacing those caps. Only thing i can think from a heat perspective then would be that I didn't get enough of the heat compound spread around. I may try to figure out how to pop that heat sink off to look at that as well.
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