I found out, that my philips tv has the exact same 51pin cable, so I tried the Sony with that cable. Same exact symptom, so at least we reduced the possibilities to mainboard, tcon, or panel.
However, without the TCON connected, the tv boots up, and "works" (it has sound, and reacts to everything), so I pretty much would say that the mainboard is also good. Personal opinion only of course, I might be wrong..
If I can find a TCON for a reasonable price, I'm going to try it with that. If not, I have no better idea, than sell as parts.
from his video. its android, logo shown at bootloader ..... system media android start too then brick up.... its 100% non T-CON or Panel... forget about 5 blink red....press joystick forward then down..plug it in wall ... release only when the LED change from white to green.... se if the 5 blink exist or not
easy way
from his video. its android, logo shown at bootloader ..... system media android start too then brick up.... its 100% non T-CON or Panel... forget about 5 blink red....press joystick forward then down..plug it in wall ... release only when the LED change from white to green.... se if the 5 blink exist or not
easy way
Done it a few times already, but didn't fix anything.
The LED changes to green, then 5 blink starts again.
You think he should try using a mouse or keyboard Diah?
we have this issue from user from USA before 4-5 years... he succeed with USB MBR mode formatted Fat32 on it last firmware and the pressing of reset to change LED from white to green.... but only after be sure his LED BL 100 OK
Another "new info", after every Volume down + power (green led for 3 seconds, then 5 blinks), at the next powering on, the TV stays on longer when the circle things are spinning/loading.
It works for like ~8 seconds, before the 5 blinks.
Then at the next start it's 3 seconds max. again.
Okay, gonna check backlight. In the meantime, I tried to power the tv from my bench psu, no change.
Another "new info", after every Volume down + power (green led for 3 seconds, then 5 blinks), at the next powering on, the TV stays on longer when the circle things are spinning/loading.
It works for like ~8 seconds, before the 5 blinks.
Then at the next start it's 3 seconds max. again.
Okay, gonna check backlight. In the meantime, I tried to power the tv from my bench psu, no change.
if yours BL fine as i read now.. its longer... than yours ISSUE BL or MB my post #24 in place
if yours BL fine as i read now.. its longer... than yours ISSUE BL or MB my post #24 in place
Yes, I just checked with tester, both BL lines are good.
Also, when I disconnect MB from PSU, backlight is working properly too.
Out of ideas..
Done so far:
-android software update thru USB stick (it has LED, it was reading from it, the TV restarted 2 times, and played a music while updating, exactly how I read it should be),
-tried another PSU,
-tried different LVDS and panel cables,
-tried VolDown+power button method,
-(cross-)measured and thermal checked every component on the TCON panel, then motherboard found no problems,
-and whatever i dont remember atp.
Everything seems to be fine, until I connect this tcon. Then it's 5 blinking asap.
Could it be, what nomoresonys said in post #11, that the panelid eeprom is corrupt? If yes, am I shot?
Try to disconnect the lvds cable from the t-con and turn on the TV, and after loading, sharply, without distortions or displacements, insert the cable back, that is, connect it hot, see where it is better to do this on the motherboard side or on the T-con side.
yours TV Sony..... how it come the BL come on when MB disconnected ```this is only for Samsung !!
Worked on an old sony from 2009, the backlight on it would only come on when mainboard was unhooked from powerboard and would give the solid color red green blue etc, screens, that one just needed a firmware update/pair but did not have a situation like that before or since.
Well, I don't know, but this is how it works. 😧
When I disconnect MB from PSU, it's starting BL as soon as it gets power.
then. disconnect the 2 LVDS and turn on... check if you have 12V on T-con Fuse.... it you have then color pattern show on screen... if no 12V then teed the fuse with it
then. disconnect the 2 LVDS and turn on... check if you have 12V on T-con Fuse.... it you have then color pattern show on screen... if no 12V then teed the fuse with it
Fed the TCON with 12V.
It took 700mA, screen turned on, and played test pattern: different shades of white/gray, then chessboard pattern, then horizontal lines in R, G, B and white, then repeat.
Pattern was fine, screen was fine.
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