Relative to eachother: 100ohm both.
Relative to ground: 4.6KOhm both.
They are not shorted to eachother.
Unfortunately scoping and BGA has to wait too, I forgot about the holidays and family time.. 😆...
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Yes, I just checked with tester, both BL lines are good.
Also, when I disconnect MB from PSU, backlight is working properly too.
​Out of ideas..
Done so far:
-android software update thru USB stick (it has LED, it was reading from it, the TV restarted 2 times, and played a music while updating, exactly how I read it should be),
-tried another PSU,
-tried different LVDS and panel cables,
-tried VolDown+power button method,
-(cross-)measured and thermal checked every component on the TCON panel, then motherboard found no problems,...
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Another "new info", after every Volume down + power (green led for 3 seconds, then 5 blinks), at the next powering on, the TV stays on longer when the circle things are spinning/loading.
It works for like ~8 seconds, before the 5 blinks.
Then at the next start it's 3 seconds max. again.
Okay, gonna check backlight. In the meantime, I tried to power the tv from my bench psu, no change....
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I found out, that my philips tv has the exact same 51pin cable, so I tried the Sony with that cable. Same exact symptom, so at least we reduced the possibilities to mainboard, tcon, or panel.
However, without the TCON connected, the tv boots up, and "works" (it has sound, and reacts to everything), so I pretty much would say that the mainboard is also good. Personal opinion only of course, I might be wrong..
If I can find a TCON for a reasonable price, I'm going to try it with that. If not, I have no better idea, than sell as parts.
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I just read on another page about sony 5 blink:[B] "...after replacing the main board or tcon, youll have to perform a factory software update...", [/B]however this is the only page I read this, and is not confirmed.
It might be needed to pair up the mainboard-tcon, but since the EEPROM was transferred over, I don't see the reason here.
Now I began an update, however, without the TCON connected, because when I connect it, it couldn't even start the updating process, went straight to 5 blinks.
The update went through, but didn't change anything either, unfortunately....
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Yes, measured capacitors, diodes, and main lines. All good. Thermal cam didn't show any suspicious parts either.
Of course I couldn't cross-measure with another board, as this is the only one on hand.
So we are at the same possibilities, mainboard, cable, tcon, or screen..
Since you said, that the original TCON panelid EEPROM could be also bad.. if that's the case, is there anything we can do, or is it a lost cause?...
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The barcodes are:
New one: TT-5543T02C04-53F-M249754-D4117-02
Bad one: TT-5543T02C04-648-M255040-D5395-02
As I said, the "new" TCON is also an used one, but the person who gave me the TV told me, that the TCON was bought from a local service guy, who asked him about the barcode and TV screen size prior the purchase.
It had no EEPROM/SPI chips, and had a capacitor broken off, so I transfered everything from the bad one, but every other part looks in-tact.
I guess there is no way to turn the protection off - maybe just to see if anything...
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I have made a short video, where you can see, what the TV is doing, and that the screen looks absolutely perfect, when it's active.
Sometimes, VERY RARELY the TV stays on for longer (like, even 10 seconds) with perfect display, then it goes to 5 blinks again.
Tbh, I am totally new to Sony. Should the TV stay on, if I were to disconnect one or the other side of the LCD from the TCON board?
If yes, then I could rule out the LCD, as the TV turns off even if the LCD is totally disconnected.I have made a short video, where you can see, what the TV is doing, and...
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The EEPROM chips were all soldered correctly/good, but of course I resoldered them just in case, its perfect still.
The LVDS cable doesn't have bad pin, and I cleaned it.
Unfortunately nothing changed.
If there is no TCON connected: TV stays on. If the old TCON is connected: TV stays on (even tho it has no NAND/SPI chips on it right now).
With the new TCON, the TV turns off after Sony logo, and 5 blinks.
TCON voltages are all present. Both TCONs show the same thermal characteristics under thermal cam.
I'm out of ideas right now. I attach...
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SONY KDL-43W755C | 5 blinks stand-by LED
Hello guys.
Today I got this TV for free, the friend included a "new" (used) TCON with it, since he told me, that doesn't work either.
With the stock TCON, this TV turns on, stays on, but the screen only has 5 RED vertical lines on it, and that's it.
Backlight stays on and is fine.
With the "new" TCON, the TV turns on, shows SONY logo, some spinning circles, then the TV goes blank, and the stand-by LED is blinking 5 times, won't react to anything.
I have read some forums, where it's been told that the part number is not always enough...
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Re: Philips 55PFL6008K/12K Ambilight not working
Dear William,
Thank you for your answer.
The AL strips both have AMS1122 on them, and put the upg file in the folder accordingly.
Unfortunately that didn't work either.
I also checked the resistors on the strips themselves, and they have +12V and +3V on them, so supply voltages are not problematic.
I saw that there are other lines on this cable, which are most likely the control signals, but my knowledge ends there, don't know what and how should be measured.
...
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Philips 55PFL6008K/12K Ambilight not working
Hey,
---
I just got the TV mentioned in the title the other day.
Yes, I am well aware of it being a QFU chassis which is very hated - although I love QFUs (maybe for being this bad?), my main TV is a QFU too, and I bought this TV for this very reason.
It had the typical 2 blink error, which was fixed by a proper Fusion CPU reballing, with extra cooling mods. It works.
---
Everything is perfectly fine with it, but the Ambilight just won't do anything.
At all.
Won't work on Dynamic, won't work on Static. Not a single...
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Re: Asus ROG zephyrus g401 shorted EC ?
Hey! Did you fix your problem?
I haven an asus laptop, plugging the charger in, only high pitched fast on-off switching whine is coming out of it, no reaction.
7ohm on the VCC line of ITE5125VG. Injecting 1V, indeed the ITE is getting hot.
Did you replace yours? Did it fix it?
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