I also advise against any wandering probes - I already did that once myself.
The resultant fireworks may give a good adrenaline rush but they are brief and expensive compared to contemporary gunpowder types and not really worth the lasting headache.
"Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
-David VanHorn
Well I'm not sure what to make of that test. I had the lamps disconnected as it's the only way I can get to the bottom of the board.
With a voltage reading about 1.3v on the 5v line I switched the probe over to AMPs and switched the meter into the amp range as well.
I was reading 0.00 so I switched to mA scale and now it would read a peak that varied (max about 125ma) but would settle to zero in a matter of seconds. Could only get a reading by removing one of the probes and retouching. Always returned to zero soon thereafter.
OK, I would solder the wires to the S and D, connect everything back together, turn on the TV, then short the two wires together to simulate MOSFET on condition, if the switched 5V is OK, then the TV should function, then you will know that the MOSFET is bad.
That switched 5V must be sequenced on after the 12V is on, otherwise they would not have designed the circuit that way. If you leave the wires connected, the switched 5V will always be present even when the TV is turned off.
Actually it has no problems with the on/off sequence as it is now, but if you're saying it could damage something down the road I will swap out the mosfet.
You need to make it turns on after the 12V is on, we do not want the surprise later and I do not think it is good idea to have the switched 5V be on all the time, they have it turned off when in standby for reason.
Thanks for the feedback. That was fast, you have the MOSFET in stock? Started on Nov 2013, fixed in May 2014, I am glad you did not give up on it.
Also really to have thanks newtothis for providing the SCH, otherwise we may not have gotten this far.
Well I let it sit for a long while until I bought this power supply instead of attempting to fix the train wreck that the original one was. Thanks again and here's a pic of the landfill "escapee"
I'm working on this exact board, looking to replace C810, C834, and C808. The schematic shows different specs than the capacitors physically on the board - does that matter?
For example, C810 is on the schematic as 220uF/450V and what's physically on the board is 150uF/450V.
The TV used to work just fine, and these look to me to be the original caps. Should I follow the schematic or just replace what's there?
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