I believe there are ballast caps inside the panel for each lamp that should be checked.
Similar to this setup: otherwise also check the 4 ballast caps by the output of the inverter transformer. http://s807.beta.photobucket.com/use...49858344048522
Since the inverter transformer is driven by half bridge circuits, check the coupling cap C312, C313 which are under the heatsink of the MOSFETs that drive the transformer.
I remember that thread, the person gave up on me.
Thanks for the suggestions
I checked the caps by the transformer - no signs of failure
Additionally as stated earlier I substituted the lamps with an external lamp
Check my earlier post on the secondary winding resistance
Waiting on approval from the customer before I attempt the transformer rebuild
I have had about 70% success rate rebuilding transformers - most of the time the transformers that have internal thermal protection / fuses and a few times with shorted coils
They work on CRT flybacks well, and those big transformers are doing a similar thing (but with 3-4 kV output instead of 20~50kV.) So I can't see what would stop it working on a transformer like that. As far as building your own, you can use a pulse gen (with low impedance) and a scope. Simply count the rings on the falling or rising edge.
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
Thanks for the suggestion on a ringer
Just talked to the customer - he wants to buy a new board
Bought one off EBay where they want the core back
Looks like I will not be attempting a rebuild on the transformer afterall
I was looking forward to it - O well there will be another in the near future
Not sure what just happened - posted a response and it's not there
selldoor,
That's a great idea - Thanks for thinking of it - Good to see others are helpful
Will do when I get the new part - should be by march 10th or thereabouts
have a sanyo dp42849 tv and i check my voltage and all the only thing i have is the 5 v and when i turn it on in a dark room it doesnt blink on for a sec but i can see the picture with a flashlight so i jump out the 5 v to the bl-on and still have nothing
I measured a known good transformer
Good measurements
Pins 5 <> 10 - 114 OHms
Pins 9 <> 6 - 66 Ohms
My defective transformer had the following measurements
Pins 5 <> 10 - 399 Ohms
Pins 9 <> 6 - 66 Ohms
New part works great
Based off your finding, I checked my transformer and I found:
Pins 5<>10 - 693 Ohms
Pins 9<>6 - 65.5 Ohms
This means my transformer is no longer good am I right?
Well, looks like I've joined the no backlight club on this model of Sanyo with the DPS-260LP power supply board.
I found 2 of what I initially thought were SMD transistors that look bad. But these devices are labeled as diodes on the PC board. They have A.7 stamped in the top, with the number 5 sideways on the end.
Well, I replaced several electrolytics around the inverter section with low ESR caps. Checked each one of the old ones with a Peak Electronics ESR meter, they all looked good. But after reassembly the set wouldn't even power on anymore. Thought I'd installed a cap backwards, but that shouldn't have prevented it from powering up, and after checking they were all installed correctly. I had more pressing repairs pending, so I put it aside.
Cleaning the garage this week and decided to put the set back on the bench. Right away I found one of the connectors on the main board was partially unseated. Pushed it in, and now everything works.
One or more of the electrolytics must have been bad, even though they all looked good. I believe this is the most common failure in these inverter circuits.
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