OK, we need to start isolate the circuits to find out which section is shorted out, let try removing the Q601 (2SK3798) on page 3. You should use the lamp (100~200w) in place of the fuse so you will not keep blowing fuses and cause more damages.
Ok removed Q601 and put every thing back put light across fuse.
the light was at what i would say 100% bright.
OK, the lamp stays bright so you still have shorted circuits.
We still have 3 more MOSFET's we need to remove.
Lets take out Q1701, Q1702 on page 2 of the diagram for the 24V power supply and see if the lamp will stay on bright.
If it does, then remove Q1602 for the PFC circuits.
"I just took old lamp and cut plug off one end of wire to the fuse holder" I just re-read yor post.
OK, so you will have TWO wires that go to the lamp. One end of the wire will go to one of the fuse holder clip, another end of the wire will go to the other fuse holder clip.
We are using the lamp in place of the fuse.
Pictures of the setup?
oh haven't tryed it yet. sorry was posting from my cell phone. must have posted twice.
I have lifted a lag of D1201-D1204 and they tested good reading only one way on diode mode. I tested these because they tested bad onboard. D1607-D1610 Test good onboard.
We want to lifting component till the lamp does not stay on full bright any more. With most of the components we removed so far. there is not much else that will draw so much current to make the lamp to be lit up.
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