So it's almost dropping the same as the 6V does, which leads me to believe there's a short circuit on the board between the 12V and 6V. I have no idea if this could cause your issue - but it's definitely a problem. The higher voltage could potentially cause a voltage regulator (or a few) to overheat, causing some odd problems.
Did the problem suddenly develop or slowly get worse?
Can you unplug the TV, wait 30 seconds, then remove the power board and take a clear photo of the under side (green side?) From memory there are MOSFETs providing 6V, which could short-circuit.
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Yeah, these TVs have always amazed me - the power board can have a severe failure and the TV still mostly works. That right there is a MOSFET which has had a bad day.
The damage is likely to extend further than that MOSFET, so I would say getting a new PSU would be the best option, unless you want to repair 20 other SMD components.
I think the rattling is the relay, it is normal. When you plug in or turn on your TV you probably hear a click or two, the relay is making that sound. It consists of a contact, which can move, and a coil, which pulls the contact when the coil is energized (current flows through the coil.)
I just hope that no damage has been done to the main boards.
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I will try a new PSU and see what happens. Hopefully the rest will be fine. I'm really unsure about the TV not getting channels though. Makes me believe that something else may have blown too. I really appreciate your help! I'll report back and let you know the outcome.
I will try a new PSU and see what happens. Hopefully the rest will be fine. I'm really unsure about the TV not getting channels though. Makes me believe that something else may have blown too. I really appreciate your help! I'll report back and let you know the outcome.
Visibly check the main boards for signs of burning or damage.
Then unplug all of the power connectors and test the resistance between the 6V and case of the TV... I'd guess you should see more than 1k ohm.
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Visibly check the main boards for signs of burning or damage.
Then unplug all of the power connectors and test the resistance between the 6V and case of the TV... I'd guess you should see more than 1k ohm.
"I'd guess you should see more than 1k ohm" spot on,i repaired a uk version with bad 6v and a 12v rail the resistance to ground on the rails was 1027kohm,unfortunatley the psu had simular damage from shorted mosfet on solder side,loads of smd fried and open circuit,it was more economical to replace the psu,(bout £25 i think),the tv worked fine after that.
fixed so far...376 lg lcd tv's,24 onn tv;s,24 panasonic lcd,16 jvc lcd,12 marshall jcm800 amps,refurb of various disco equipment lighting,old style disco decks ,and a flymo!
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please let us know if everything works ok if your tv gets fixed, as it will be and aid for anyone else having the same problem and wishing to fix it.it would save people clogging up this site with topics that are duplicated,and can be found easily using the search function.,and taking up valuable space.enjoy your fixed tv!,hopefully!
Hello, I have a similar problem, no sound.
Just voltage on 3.4V is incorrect
3.4V-1.16V
Middle connector unplugged 1.16V
I had 1 bad capacitor, after replacement most of them except 3800uF ( green V mark) beside connectors, no difference
When the TV is off few hours sometime the sound is back and the led beside 'x' is lighting. After a few minutes the sound is cracking and getting off then I see this LED gets dark and off
Any help is much appreciated !
My personal theory is the buck converter IC is failing (8pin SMD on bottom of PSU board) but I've never been able to confirm such.
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Thank you Tom66, i just look at the forum on your Thread https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=20932 a got the exact same problem and same caps.
It is 100% PSU? I think i have no chance to fix this one, can't find this 8pin SMD on the internet and we are not sure 100% is it this one, probably i need to buy a new PSU .
Yes, the one without the large copper areas connected to it, it is the controller chip.
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tom66 thank you for your time. So just the no. 3037sc is important? no matter which i will get just must be 3037sc because is see they have different numbers below
The other numbers are production/lot codes, so not usually important.
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One thing to make sure is that you get the SO-8 or SOP-8 size which matches your board (compare the ratios), not the MSOP, or other sizes.
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I replaced 3037sc but no result
After this I swapped this 2 smd beside 3037sc [ 2 are the same] they going there where was a bad capacitor and now 4th red led is on but I think not bright enough.
You think it could be the problem?
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