Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

[m1dp]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

THANKS EVERYBODY!! got the parts in soldered them in an tv has been on for about two hours now. the only thing is the power mosfet that came in was smaller than the original so i had to bend the pins like a pitch fork. now i officially brought my first tv back from the dead. 32 inch proview might be next.
(parts, didn't know my links were broken)
RGP10M-E3/73GICT-ND --diode
497-5972-5-ND--mosfet

[m1dp]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

here is what i came up with for replacements what do you guys think

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...83558489434679

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...83558489434679

[Mr Bill]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

D912 is bad. Remove from the board to verify.

As for the mosfet, some of the values are a little higher (drain voltage) and (drain current) but if digikeys tech claims the mosfet are a cross then chances are it will work. That mosfet would definatly pop a fuse as soon as the tv is powered on. How many fuses do you have left? I'm thinking of you replace that mosfet and diode you should be back in business.

[m1dp]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

diode readings all "in-board"
BLACK DIODES IN PIC
zd 904 .638 reverse no change or 1.
zd 902 .638 reverse 1.
d 907 .555 reverse 1.
d 925 .533 reverse 1.
fb 918 .000 reverse .000 ??
D 912 .000 reverse .000 ??
d 911 .564 reverse 1.

[m1dp]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

the setting i use is the 2k setting it has the " -->l-- " symbol on it i posted a pic of it on post #14. i tested the bad mosfet under 2m, 200k, 20k and all pin combinatons tested .000. i tested good mosfet got no change or 1. on all pin combos. (under 2m, 200k, 20k) so now i searched for the replacement and found that it is an obsolete part (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...Words=W18NK80z). i got on help chat with them and they recomend this (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...-5-ND&x=7&y=11) do you guys think the specs are close enough?
then on the pfc, with red on pin6 (gnd) to pin 7 (gd) i get reading .115 then i switch red to pin 5 then back to six the reading changes to .026 (under 30 ohms .030 indicates short right?) should i just desolder and test out of circuit? sucks cause digikey says this part is also Non-Stock. http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...Words=sg6961sz i am alsso thinking some other diodes went bad causing the mosfet to go bad or does the pfc control the mosfet?

[Mr Bill]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

here are the results from mosfet circled in blue
positive on pin 1 to 2= .003
positive on pin 1 to 3= .003
positive on pin 2 to 1= .003
positive on pin 2 to 3= .000
positive on pin 3 to 1= .002
positive on pin 3 to 2= .000

The one i circled in blue appears to be shorted. What setting did you have on your multimeter? The one you got .514 (red) maybe ok if you had the multimeter set to 2M. It would be .514 Mohms. For giggles retest with the highest ohm setting your meter has which i believe is 2M. If its shorted you should still get a value under 30 ohms.

As for the pfc chip on the back. I uploaded the datasheet. Ground and ZCD are the 2 corner pins. So atleast try the other 3 corners. If its under 30 ohms then its bad but i'm leaning towards the one mosfet (blue)

[m1dp]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

here are the results from mosfet circled in blue
positive on pin 1 to 2= .003
positive on pin 1 to 3= .003
positive on pin 2 to 1= .003
positive on pin 2 to 3= .000
positive on pin 3 to 1= .002
positive on pin 3 to 2= .000

[m1dp]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

removed mosfet you circled in red test results
with positive on pin 1 to pin 2 =no change or 1.
positive on pin 1 to 3 =no change or 1.
positive on pin 2 to 1= no change or 1.
positive on pin2 to 3 = no change or 1.
positive on pin 3 to 1 = no change or 1.
positive on pin 3 to 2 = .514
all under 2k. i tried to use 200 setting but the number goes away too fast and is never the same
Now, the chip on the back. With positive on pin 8 to 6 is no change or 1.
positive on pin 6 to 8 is .651 did i do this correctly or did you need me to test all combinations? just trying to be thorough.

[m1dp]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

the diode that was circled in green for me by retiredcaps is reading .454 and no reading the other way this means that the diode is still good and can be soldered right?

the bridge rectifier readings are
pin 1 and 2 .548 ,reverse is no reading
pin 2 and 3 no reading either way
pin 3 and 4 .566 ,reverse is no reading
so according to the video this should be good.
also @ mr.bill the chip#is sg6961sz b1aa1720713e

thanks everybody for the time you are using to help i really appreciate this

[Lobo]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

No blown fuses yet but I did have the same bad caps. At first I only replaced the bad ones but the PSU was making a considerably loud, high-pitched chirping. (buzzing, humming,...whatever you want to call it.)
Then I replaced the remaining caps. Since doing that, the sound is now almost completely gone and it doesn't seem to run quite as hot. But now I'm getting some sort of surge on the T-conn board that blew a small SMD capacitor. The TV seems to work fine without it. I tried replacing the T-conn board but the picture fades to black. Put the old one on without that capacitor and it works. I'd prefer not to run it like that, but...

[Mr Bill]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

ok here we go,

W26NM60 (red) & W18NK802 (blue) are your power mosfets. Check them for shorts (under 30 ohms). I clipped a pic on your photo to help you. Check pins 1-2, 1-3, 2-3

IC902 on the back of the power supply is your Power Factor Controller (PFC). Assuming the dot on the chip is pin #1, check between pin 6 & 8.

Both above check with meter on the ohms setting (Ω). The 200 scale will work fine. Anything under 30 ohms will need to be removed from the board and checked again. If they are good the meter is going to display either 1 or OL because its going to be in the (k) or (m) range and thats well above 200.

I had a bad pfc controller that shorted out and took the fuse with it. Let us know the results.

Lobo, is your tv doing the same as m1dp? (blowing fuse)

[Lobo]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

I have the exact same TV and PSU and the best I can make out on the chip is
SG6961S7
B1AG2897728E
Hard to tell if the first digit in the second row is a "B" or an "8", I just guessed B.

Also, the "mosfet" is actually a diode.
STTH8L06FP
GK0G7 VU
CHN 725

The chip behind it in the picture is a mosfet.
W26NM60
CC126 V3
MAR 719

The one next to it (not in the pic)
W18NK80Z
CC099 VW
MAR Z25

Hope that helps

[Mr Bill]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

I now removed the bridge rectifier and like the mosfet am getting jumpy readings do thes indicate shorts?

i've tried every pin combination. some do stay at, 1. ,with no change and others jump high then back to 1. on the 200 ohms setting. the only results i am getting that stay steady on are when i change the meter to 2k voltage drop. anyway you can clear this up for me so i can get the proper results you need

https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...8a934e8c25.pdf

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dqkT6hF0O3E Here is a link on how to check a bridge rectifier. Your multimeter needs to be in the diode function (picture below).

The ??mosfet?? you removed actaully looks like a diode (marking on board) The mosfets might be the 2 chips behind that one with the 2 bands clipped on them. Can you get a photo of the 2 chips?

Also, I circled a chip on the backside of the power supply, can you make out the numbers on it. Its a real pain but sometimes you get lucky, a magnifying glass helps.

[m1dp]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

I now removed the bridge rectifier and like the mosfet am getting jumpy readings do thes indicate shorts?

i've tried every pin combination. some do stay at, 1. ,with no change and others jump high then back to 1. on the 200 ohms setting. the only results i am getting that stay steady on are when i change the meter to 2k voltage drop. anyway you can clear this up for me so i can get the proper results you need

https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...8a934e8c25.pdf

[m1dp]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

i removed the power mosfet you circled in green and was getting jumpy readings with the 200 ohms setting. I noticed on the pcb in front of the chip is a voltage drop sign so i adjusted to the 2k ohms with voltage drop setting and got no change one way and a reading of .454 ohms the other.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

the power mosfet you circled is 4 pins, the bridge rectifier is two pins.
will you please tell me what setting to use for ohms?

Arrgh, let's try this again. It is hard to tell from the angle of the photo and I can't read the pcb designations.

1) In purple, I think that is the bridge rectifier.

2) In green, I think that is the power mosfet.

3) Set your multimeter to 200 (two hundred) ohms.

See the section on multimeter below

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...4&postcount=19

and mistakes

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...2&postcount=31

[budm]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

I think the one in RED circle is the Bridge rectifier (4 pins), and the blue with 2 pins is the AC line filter cap.

[m1dp]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

the power mosfet you circled is 4 pins, the bridge rectifier is two pins.
will you please tell me what setting to use for ohms? i am only getting results from the continuty beep setting. also notice the smudge on the big brown lelon does it look bad to you and can that be the fuse popper?

[Lobo]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

The cap is the one that was originally on the board. It's the only one I haven't replaced yet. I've tested it and it seems good to me. At least I think I'm reading the Lelon datasheet right. (google translator doesn't really do a good job with their website) It's just that the size and uF don't match up with what's on the schematic.

[selldoor]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37 I May Have Made my Problem Worse

@Lobo - I wouldnt have thought so- in any case there may have been revisions since the schematic was produced. - Was the Lelon in from new?
You could change it and see if it helps?