Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Success??
Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Collapse
X
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
There are already several threads for that chassis; I suggest asking the mods to either move your posts to this thread or to open a new thread.
PlainBillLeave a comment:
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
My apology to PlainBill! I checked the model and it's 42PFL7432D/37 chassis Q523.1U LA
I mixed up the 7432 with 5432. I am searching for the service manual, hope to find one soon.
BackoiLeave a comment:
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Not sure if you got any or not but Solder Wick is a great tool for desoldering the old caps, I have removed and replaced caps without solder wick but it's a pain and isn't as clean of a job as using the wick.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
backoi, there is something very strange going on here. I downloaded the service manual for the 42PFL5432D/37 and got the chassis illustrated below, which is a good match to the one PoteauPets is working on, but not at all like the pictures you posted.
What is the model number and chassis number of your TV?
PlainBillLeave a comment:
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Tracked my caps and found they were mis-delivered to another town, but only 10 miles away, so I went and got them. Now, caps in hand, ready to begin.......=-)
Looks like I have to take out the main power board before I start.Leave a comment:
-
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Did you change any of the caps on the power board?
All the caps look like Rubycon ("K" vent) and then there are 2 blue caps with the "+" vent.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Dang it. Still no caps today. Ordered them Tuesday before noon, was hoping to have them today for sure..............=(Leave a comment:
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
The service manual is available from Elektrotanya. This TV uses a split power supply design that makes troubleshooting a LOT more interesting. I'd suggest downloading the service manual, Philips is excellent about supplying troubleshooting information. I'll be downloading a copy myself and be ready to help.
The fact that you have 24 volts to the inverter and the blue light goes on and off indicates both power supplies may be working. The first step is to check that. Since it does not appear the connectors are labeled, the manual is going to be a big help.
PlainBillLeave a comment:
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
1) Do you have a source hooked up like a DVD player to see if there is a picture and sound?
2) Does the power always go off after 1 minute?
a) If you turn off the TV and turn it back on, does it stay on 1 minute and go off again?
It can't be turned on. I tried to hold/release the power button on the side of the TV and sometimes, I was able to turn the unit on after hitting the power button few times, then the power button worked and I could turn it on/off as usual until I shut off the main power, then the problem re-occurred.
3) Can we get a picture of the entire TV backside so all the boards are in view? We want to see the relationship and cabling between boards.
See attached pictures.
4) PS. Sharp eyed readers and future people will notice this is why we always INSIST on photos on your own TV. The boards are completely different even though backoi says the models are the same in post #36.
1) Do you have a source hooked up like a DVD player to see if there is a picture and sound?
Yes, I have one. Since TV can't turn on, so the dvd wouldn't do anything.
2) Does the power always go off after 1 minute?
Yes, after pluggin in the main power cord, one of the LEDs on main board stayed on 1 min, then it went off at the same time with a blue indicator LED in front of TV. See attached pictures.
a) If you turn off the TV and turn it back on, does it stay on 1 minute and go off again?
It can't be turned on. I tried to hold/release the power button on the side of the TV and sometimes, I was able to turn the unit on after hitting the power button few times, then the power button worked and I could turn it on/off as usual until I shut off the main power, then the problem re-occurred.
3) Can we get a picture of the entire TV backside so all the boards are in view? We want to see the relationship and cabling between boards.
See attached pictures.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
2) Does the power always go off after 1 minute?
a) If you turn off the TV and turn it back on, does it stay on 1 minute and go off again?
3) Can we get a picture of the entire TV backside so all the boards are in view? We want to see the relationship and cabling between boards.
4) PS. Sharp eyed readers and future people will notice this is why we always INSIST on photos on your own TV. The boards are completely different even though backoi says the models are the same in post #36.Last edited by retiredcaps; 01-05-2012, 03:56 AM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Hi, I would start by going up to the beginning (the 1st page) of my posts and see how Retiredcaps has walked me thru everything step by step. It will help you to see what to check and what to look for until you find the problem.Leave a comment:
-
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Hi, I am new to this forum. I have the same model TV. Recently, it had no picture and no sound. I checked the power to both inverters, measured 24V DC. Visually, I didn't see any sign of caps burned or deformed. When power on, the blue light in front stays on for 1 minute, then goes off. What else should I check? Thanks for help!Leave a comment:
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Went to Radio Shack and got the iron and the solder that you had linked to me. Checked to be sure they were the right part number(s) also. They didn't have any extra tips though. He said they have to be ordered from their online store. So, now I wait anxiously for my caps to arrive.............lol
Yes, electronics do get cheaper each year but some things are still a little too high to just run out and replace. I think my cut-off point is just about at a 42" flat screen price...heheheh
Funny thing is......Right before I found this site and learned about "bad caps" I had searched online for prices for new flat screens (above 50") and then compared that to the estimated cost to fix my tv's unknown problem. I thought, if I'm gonna have to pay $200.00 or up to fix it, I might as well get a new "larger" one instead.
So, if all goes well, when my caps arrive, I will replace the 3 capXon LZ's and my tv will be rocking again for under $20.00......woo-hooLeave a comment:
-
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
1) Electronics gets cheaper and cheaper every year making repairing a less economically viable option.
2) People are brainwashed into thinking newer is better (see iphone/ipad/ipod generation).
3) Some, not all, TV "repair" shops simply swap entire boards and don't even do component level repair. For that, they buy an OEM board which costs $$$ and charge you $100/hour for the service. Quite often, I have seen people here say that the repair costs exceeds the price of a new TV.
4) Some electronics are impossible to DIY repair. Try soldering in a 200 pin IC at home. Try working on cell phone boards where you need 30x magnification just to see the component.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
I already called and checked availability and had him set them aside for me. They are open till 9:00 so I am thinking about going over there this evening.
It just kills me to think of all the electronics that we have thrown out over the years with the same problems.Leave a comment:
Related Topics
Collapse
-
by G33RTPhilips 8200 series 65PUS8204/12 stuck at Philips Logo, it does not reboot it just stays on the logo.
It does power up when pressing the power button.
I already try the power button while plugin the plug with no result.
Also put the latest firmware autorun-TPM191E_R.001.004.100.000.upg on a MBR/FAT32 USB stick at USB port2 with no result either.
Could this be an PSU or eMMC issue ? -
by Ifixstuff9I have a Philips TV that shows no signs of life when plugged in - no standby LED, no response to buttons, no noises, nothing. This model is well known for having bad caps, so I started by replacing a few of them (3x 35v 1500uf and 1x 2200uf 16v). I don't know the history of the TV but it looks like someone's been at it before because some of the solder joints looked really bad, so I re soldered them as well.
After swapping the caps I still got no signs of life so I started checking voltages, and found that the board is supplying 24v but not 12v. Here's what I measured on the connector... -
by aidanmoHello,
I've got a really strange issue with the speakers on my Philips 43PUS7506/12. It makes this awful loud buzzing now. It happened after it was attempted to be wall mounted - I think the back got squeezed and something broke.
I thought maybe the speakers got damaged, so I replaced them - no dice.- Using the internal speakers, it always happens.
- Using the headphone jack, it never happens.
- Using the digital/optical out with a soundbar - it happens after about 2h/movie runtime - it's never as drastic, it just pops in and out, but I didn't want it to damage the sound bar
-
by CornitoHello Team,
New issue on LCD panel where I need to find out the cause and the potential solution.
This is on the Philips 50PUH6400, the LCD panel is an INNOLUX V500dk2 xrs1.
I have image, on the right side, the image is more or less normal even if there is a small blur on edge, on the left there is an issue.
When moving up and down in the menu on the right the image is slow to disappear, and is darker, like red/brown.
I've checked voltages, no issue found comparing right and left side of the panel driver.
VHG VGL CKV... are the sames on... -
by spantorHello partners.
Could someone tell me how to make this Philips TV source work without the mainboard being connected? The model of the board is EAX65423701 (2.1) and the model of the Philips TV is 40PFH40009/88.
The TV is dead, there is no standby light, however there is a voltage of 12v on the pins ( included 12v VAU ) and 3.2v on the PS-ON pin (see photo) when the power board is connected to the main board. If I disconnect both boards I only get 8 volts on 12v pins. I would like to rule out a fault in the main board by making it work, but so far no one has been able to tell... - Loading...
- No more items.
Leave a comment: