Also, the way that these two caps are sitting next to this blue thing that is right next to the microcontroller makes me think that the blue thing is a crystal oscillator .... is that correct?
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Re: Fish Tank LED Power Supply Gets Hot then shuts down
Also, the way that these two caps are sitting next to this blue thing that is right next to the microcontroller makes me think that the blue thing is a crystal oscillator .... is that correct?
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Re: Fish Tank LED Power Supply Gets Hot then shuts down
As a matter of fact, there is an RS-232 chip on the board ...
Also, I forgot to show this ...
These are the same ... looks like a voltage regulator...
Also not sure what this means, but this chip has like a volcano ... zit looking protrusion coming out of it ...
Last edited by EasyGoing1; 10-12-2022, 10:53 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Fish Tank LED Power Supply Gets Hot then shuts down
i bet the RTC doesnt keep time anymore.
how the hell do you use it - serial port??Leave a comment:
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Re: Fish Tank LED Power Supply Gets Hot then shuts down
So I took the circuit board out and as you can see ... several places got damaged by excessive current draw ... the side by side is the board flipped against itself so you can see that one side of the board got burnt while the other side didn't except in that one general area.
The housing has FOUR fans, two on each end... the red and black wires connect those fans and thats all those wires do.
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Re: Fish Tank LED Power Supply Gets Hot then shuts down
Jokes ... love it!
Up next ... I removed the circuit board and there are some interesting places on the board with obvious over heating ... even traces where the solder mask is burned off but not even near any component ... ill have pictures soon.Leave a comment:
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Re: Fish Tank LED Power Supply Gets Hot then shuts down
looks like you found the very slow blow fuse .Leave a comment:
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Re: Fish Tank LED Power Supply Gets Hot then shuts down
OK, I cracked open the LED panel itself, which turned out to be only 4 screws then slide out the plastic that covers the LEDs and it exposes everything ... as you can see... I saw a problem immediately... You'll have to zoom in on the second picture to see it but the plastic on whatever that DC power connection is, is totally fried off of the wire though the wire is not disconnected.
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Re: Fish Tank LED Power Supply Gets Hot then shuts down
Nope. ESR meters aka LCR meters are their own, and these functions are not to find in a DMM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Fish Tank LED Power Supply Gets Hot then shuts down
it does not do esr, it's a basic compact clamp meter with a 100A limit.
it's fame is that it can read DC with the clamp with a 1mA resolution!Leave a comment:
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Re: Fish Tank LED Power Supply Gets Hot then shuts down
Could this meter replace my MESR-100 ESR meter? Does it have ESR capability? If so, I could send this one I just bought back and get the UT210E almost at a straight swap - cost wise.Leave a comment:
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Re: Fish Tank LED Power Supply Gets Hot then shuts down
Yeah, another vote for the UT210e from me.Leave a comment:
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Re: Fish Tank LED Power Supply Gets Hot then shuts down
Uni-T, Bside, Extech, Fluke…
The only thing about Uni-T is that you have to make tripple sure it’s the meter you want. Some are doing only DC, not AC, etc. Your better off to go to the official Uni-T website and see what you want, then look for that specific model. Then compare pics etc.Leave a comment:
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Re: Fish Tank LED Power Supply Gets Hot then shuts down
maybe the opamp died - easy to diagnose the fault in them.Leave a comment:
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Re: Fish Tank LED Power Supply Gets Hot then shuts down
I had one but I did not think it was that cheap but it only lasted a couple of years and then it would not read any dc current anymore
I just have not bought another one yet but plan on doing this again when I need to have one for something that I can not use my meter forLeave a comment:
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Re: Fish Tank LED Power Supply Gets Hot then shuts down
dont you have a DC clamp-meter btw?
i thought everybody got one when uni-T released the cheap one!Leave a comment:
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Re: Fish Tank LED Power Supply Gets Hot then shuts down
No, I'm curious why it's drawing 28W on the 5V line
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Re: Fish Tank LED Power Supply Gets Hot then shuts down
Take the lamp apart and see how it's wired. Using that much +5 when +12 is available is kind of weird.Leave a comment:
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I have here a Magnum IA.100 which belongs to my parents.
The unit powers on & when the relay kicks in, you get a pop from the speakers (this might sound weird but is usual behavior for this amp). However, you get nothing coming through it from any of the inputs & no pops and crackls from any of the controls.
Because of the sound from the speaker when the amp turns on I have assumed that the output section probably works but I could be wrong & I'm not sure how to test that side of things further.
What Ive done........01-01-2025, 01:26 PM -
Hello
Laptop E15 I5 10gen
Mb nm-c421
I have a problem with the usb-c power dc.
The motherboard start only in one side of the usb-c
Replace the usb-c port 2 times same problem
With the usb-c meter, one side 20v ok, other side the usb-c meter don't come on
Try to test the pin with the Mechanic Tail insertion tester and every pin are ok ?
Can the pd controler be the fault ? Or something else maybe ?
Thx
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The model is 15ec-1061nm
Board number is DAG3EDMB8D0
SO i turn the laptop on , and as soon as it starts booting from disk, from usb, windows,linux,HBCD,anything i boot it just turns off....while in bios menu or in linux boot menu it stays on normally...It's like when it starts to use graphics it shuts down...But i measured 0.72V while working on the GPU power line,no excess heat is comming from GPU or CPU, i even removed the heatsink and turned the laptop on and everything worked fine, got a bit hot, fan span to full speed, but it worked like that for few minutes in bios...10-29-2024, 12:05 AM -
All left and right refers to looking from rear of TV (or looking from front with TV upside down)- TV came with vertical bars and no image. Found faulty TVS on left buffer board. Also replaced T-Con (may have damaged the original while hot air removing components, board has slight warp) and have full image but few horizontal lines on the screen. Some of the lines appears to be 2 pixel tall while others are 1 pixel tall.
- Disconnecting left and right buffer board potentially reveals problems on both sides with different signals (unless this T-Con require jumper like Samsung FB_TRDY1&3) Fault
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Right SIDE usb.c port charges and transfers data without issue, two left side uSB c ports charge but do not receive or see data. Was liquid damaged, and repaired significantly and thought we were in the clear but appears this is the last issue that is rearing its head. I am trying to locate the RETIMER chip that communicates the DATA TX/RX but I cannot seem to find it on the schematic or maybe I am just so tired my eyes wore out lol. Any help would be great.05-29-2025, 10:35 AM
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