Bestec ATX-250 12Z problems and solutions
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Re: Bestec ATX-250 12Z problems and solutions
Does anyone have a pic of the underside foil pattern of this PSU?
Particularly where the + lead of the 220mf 50v electrolytic cap in the 5vSB circuit is connected. The traces are thin there and the vision of a 60 yr. old is frustrating me! This may be my last electronics repair I undertake.
Thank you. JerryComment
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Re: Bestec ATX-250 12Z problems and solutions
And don't give up! Life may be throwing "challenges" at you, but take it as nothing more than that and try to find creative ways to work around that.Last edited by momaka; 05-22-2014, 03:23 PM.Comment
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Re: Bestec ATX-250 12Z problems and solutions
According to the post on how to change the over voltage protection what value resiston would you use when you change the r 60 resistor. I'm currently using this power supply for my work bench and it keeps cutting out and I have to unplug it and let it reset. I know I'm far from the limits on what is says it can do.Comment
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Re: Bestec ATX-250 12Z problems and solutions
According to the post on how to change the over voltage protection what value resiston would you use when you change the r 60 resistor. I'm currently using this power supply for my work bench and it keeps cutting out and I have to unplug it and let it reset. I know I'm far from the limits on what is says it can do.
I have removed R60 on this power supply and replaced it with a trimpot, either 50k or 100k. Before soldering it in, adjust it to the value of the surface mount resistor R60 which you removed. Then power up the psu and adjust the trimpot for best balance between the 5 volt and 12 volt rails.Old proverb say.........If you shoot at nothing, you will hit nothing (George Henry 10-14-11)Comment
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Re: Bestec ATX-250 12Z problems and solutions
Does anyone have a complete schematic of the Bestec ATX-250-12E? I have two dead ones. The electrolytic caps check good and there is 320VDC on C15-C14. No 5VSB present. I would like to avoid the time/trouble to trace out the circuitry and make my own schematic if someone else has one. Thanks.Comment
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Re: Bestec ATX-250 12Z problems and solutions
Here is schematic of Bestec ATX-250 12E 5vsb circuitAttached FilesOld proverb say.........If you shoot at nothing, you will hit nothing (George Henry 10-14-11)Comment
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Re: Bestec ATX-250 12Z problems and solutions
How to increase the 12v to 14v for using as battery charger for car with this power supply bested ATX-250zComment
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Re: Bestec ATX-250 12Z problems and solutions
My ATX-250 12Z REV: D4R is from an 2.0GHz Conroe HP Pavilion that looks like first thread photo, except having no evidence of anything overheated. All glue was soft white, and it was very clean, same as inside the PC case. It had bad 5V, and after replacing 2 Jamicons, 6 OSTs and 10 CapXons, none of which tested out of spec, bulged or leaked, still has bad 5V making my PS-224 Coolmax digital PS tester beep wildly, and blink the LCD display and 5V LED. The only caps not replaced were 0.1 uF and 0.47uF, which my Peak Atlas ESR60 tester shows out of range for testing. I tried recapping as I did because I read among several threads here that the 12Z was supposedly a good design as long as the caps were quality replacements. I used UCC KZN 12.5x20 for the 10x25 OST RLS 2200uF/16V and 10x25 Jamicon TK 2200uF/16V. I used FR for the two 1000uF/16V CapXon KM, all 10x20. I used 10X16 Jackcon for the 8X16 220uF/16V CapXon KM. I used UCC KY for the CapXon KM 2.2uF/50V. I used FR for the CapXon KM 22uF/50V. I used UCC KY for the CapXon KM and Jamicon TK 10uF/50V and The rest replaced were OST RLS 10x20x1 and RLG 10x20x4 2200uF/10V for which I used 10x25 FR. Over 5 hours wasted for no change.Comment
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Re: Bestec ATX-250 12Z problems and solutions
Is the main 5 volts bad or is the 5VSB bad? How to troubleshoot depends on which is bad. The white glue LOOKS better but does not always have a brown or black area to indicate a current leakage path. If your main 5 volt line is unstable, you might have some white glue on the output diode leads which has an intermittent leakage path.Old proverb say.........If you shoot at nothing, you will hit nothing (George Henry 10-14-11)Comment
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Re: Bestec ATX-250 12Z problems and solutions
When I apply 120V to the 12Z with nothing else connected, the LED flickers, and something makes a faint ticking/ringing noise that takes a while to fade away when 120V is removed. When I put my multimeter set on DCV on purple pin 9, the readout says OL, which its manual says is out of range. I get that a lot with this multimeter testing alkaline batteries, suggesting it may be time for a new multimeter.
Putting my Coolmax PS-224 tester on it I get:
+5V = blinking (value) and LL (alternating)
+12V1 = blinking (value) and LL "
+3.3V = blinking (value) and LL "
+12V2 = blinking (value) and LL "
PG = 990
5VSB = blinking ~4.7V and HH
The PS-224 instructions do not say what HH means.
How to troubleshoot depends on which is bad. The white glue LOOKS better but does not always have a brown or black area to indicate a current leakage path. If your main 5 volt line is unstable, you might have some white glue on the output diode leads which has an intermittent leakage path.Comment
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Re: Bestec ATX-250 12Z problems and solutions
All of these symptoms point to a problem in the 5vsb circuit. This circuit MUST be fixed first or none of the other circuits will operate properly. I will look for a schematic diagram so that we may proceed.Old proverb say.........If you shoot at nothing, you will hit nothing (George Henry 10-14-11)Comment
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Re: Bestec ATX-250 12Z problems and solutions
Ditch the PSU tester. They aren't useful at all. Fix your multimeter or get a new one, because that's what you need to fix this PSU.
I've not yet found an explanation of how to ID the "main 5 volt line". General PSU Discussion and FAQ contributions doesn't show a 20/24 connector diagram or pic. I found the purple #9 on an off site search, which explained only #9.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATX#Power_supply
In general: RED = 5V rail, ORANGE = 3.3v rail, YELLOW = 12V rail, PURPLE = 5VSB rail, BLUE = -12V rail, WHITE = -5V rail, GREEN = PS_ON.
However, a small number of PSUs do use different colors for their wires, so don't always take the above for granted (but in like 99% of the cases, it is true). And also, Dell PSUs from the Pentium 3 era may have different pinouts as well. But I don't think anyone repairs those anymore.Last edited by momaka; 06-16-2015, 09:26 PM.Comment
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Re: Bestec ATX-250 12Z problems and solutions
^ I'm talking about the proprietary ATX Dell PSUs from the Pentium 2 and Pentium 3 era (i.e. 1998 - early 2000). They had different pinouts than standard ATX, even thought the connector was still standard ATX.
They rarely broke, though. Actually, I have never seen one broken, ever. Most of them used Japanese capacitors and were build by Delta, Lite-ON, and HiPro.Comment
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Re: Bestec ATX-250 12Z problems and solutions
Here is a schematic of the 5vsb circuit on the Bestec ATX-250 12Z. Be sure that all of the aluminum electrolytic capacitors in this circuit are replaced with good ones.Attached FilesOld proverb say.........If you shoot at nothing, you will hit nothing (George Henry 10-14-11)Comment
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Re: Bestec ATX-250 12Z problems and solutions
Does anyone have the schematic to the Bestec ATX-250 12Z?Comment
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Re: Bestec ATX-250 12Z problems and solutions
I don't know of any "complete" schematic for the Bestec ATX-250 12Z except perhaps one which the Bestec factory might have. I have posted several schematics of sections of this power supply on this forum in the POWER SUPPLY DESIGN AND TROUBLESHOOTING section. Try doing a search on the Bestec ATX-250 12E, ATX-250 12Z. ATX-300 12E, and ATX-300 12Z. All have similar circuits except for the ATX-250 12E 5VSB (the motherboard killer circuit). There are also some postings of schematics for other Bestec models which have similar circuits. Try doing a search for Bestec (no specific model).
If you are having a problem, I suggest that you start a new thread, give the model number of the power supply, tell us what the power supply is doing (or not doing), and post a few pictures of it.
Some things to do first: check to see that the fan is not stuck, check for bulging capacitors, check for possibly conductive glue on the pc board (will be dark brown or black), check to see if the fuse is blown, power up the psu and see if you have 160 volts across both of the main input capacitors, and check to see if you have 5 volts on the 5VSB line. If the 5VSB is not working, nothing else will work correctly.
If you are new to fixing power supplies, remember that some areas of the power supply have as much as 400 volts and can be deadly and dangerous. Don't be touching anything on the pc board when power is applied. Also, for safety, wear safety glasses. Sometimes they blow up and send pieces flying in all directions. Safety glasses are cheap compared to the cost of losing your vision.Old proverb say.........If you shoot at nothing, you will hit nothing (George Henry 10-14-11)Comment
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