Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

[c_hegge]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

In Win IP-P350AJ2-0.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1440028267

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1440028267
Looks kind of similar to the rather common IP-S400CQ2-0 at first glance, but there are a few differences

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1440028267
The topology is STF, with an ST W12NK90Z FET (11A, 0.72Ω RDS-on)

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1440028267
5V and 3.3V rails use SIRectifier 4045PTs (40A). 12V uses a single MBR20100CT

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1440028267
The fan is an ARX sleeve bearing, and it's stuck. It looks like the thick grease they used got pushed out of the bearing.

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1440028267
And here's the end result. The caps are all bad and the thing won't start.

I'm hoping that it will be fine if I just recap it and give the fan some better lubricant.

[Wester547]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

Looks like the dreaded glue is starting to go conductive too. Best to get rid of as much as you can.

[c_hegge]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

Yup. I seriously hate that glue. Not only does it do this, but it's very difficult to remove without damaging anything else.

[GaryRob]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

I notice a number of OST RLP caps. What do you intend to use to replace those?

[c_hegge]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

It will be a bit of a grab bag of Panny FK, FR and FM and Ruby ZL, depending on what I have on hand. The really small <100uF caps will probably get replaced by Panny FC.

[c_hegge]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

All done. I'll see if I can get some pics later when I have better light. Caps are a grab bag of Pannies, Rubies and a couple of NCCs. The stock ARX fan works fine after giving it some better lubricant, and I was able to get rid of most of the glue. There was a bit near the 3.3V wires which I couldn't remove without damaging anything, but it's not in a hot area, and it's not bridging anything on the primary side now.

[Pentium4]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

Nice. These are great units. I've seen one last 8 years with all the ost in spec. But I've also seen the glue take a few out in fireworks fashion. Hate that stuff so much. I've ruined a few of these trying to remove the glue and accidentally ripping a component out, only to discover that there was so much glue on it that you couldn't even read any info on the part to find a replacement. And seen a ton of those arx fans fail, more than adda in the same design. With good caps and oiled fan it should be good for at least 15 years.

[Compgeke]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

Power One HC12-3.4-AG. 12V, 3.4A Linear PSU.

Cap wise it has a decent sized Marcon 35V 1000uF cap then 3 small Elnas and a Nichicon SE hidden in the back. Got adjusted to 12.00V (someone had it adjusted to 12.8) and it's holding fine, no fluctuation at all.

[Stefan Payne]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

I was bored so I did this:

[Agent24]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

I was bored so I did this:

[coreAngel]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

i also posted this on jonnyguru but decided it deserves to be shown here i really do like this psu

ThermalTake Xaser III Silent Purepower 480 Power Supply (with a knob that could be installed in the front or back to turn up both fans speeds to max,and it is loud) it has a voltage selector switch though and newegg says it is active PFC maybe its passive , all caps are teapo as well and in good shape, and it has 2 fans in orange color,it has a bridge rectifer GBU805 (it has an EMI filter, 2 y caps , 2 x caps, a coil and an MOV on the board) the ul file number is E144195 Level3 it came back as Sirtec,(as was mentioned to me before)
side note: i checked the PCB board and there are models made with this board
300-350W 6.3A ,360W 8A, and 420W @10A all at 250V.

this is the listing from newegg saying it's active PFC?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817153007

I was fearing this PSU was over rated but so far since i purchased on December 2005 and it was built on July 2005 so it has passed almost it's ten year mark...it still won't die at 400 watts im pulling..

it is made in taiwan, but im surprised at it's realibility.I want to recap it if possible as it's my first true psu i bought ( the last one i used for a year was a L&C power (deer) psu which worked reliably until i realized how light weight it was) , and yes it is Sirtec aka Solytech, but an unusual unit at that.

[momaka]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

it has a voltage selector switch though and newegg says it is active PFC maybe its passive

The voltage selector switch means either passive or no PFC. And I don't see a large toroid on the primary side, so this is definitely not active PFC. Passive? Maybe... but unless there is a large transformer coil that is not in view on any of the pictures, then this is not a passive PFC either. Just regular PFC-less PSU. But no worries - simple PSUs like that tend to last a very long time .

all caps are teapo as well and in good shape

Yes, sometimes, Teapo can last a surprisingly long time. I have some PSUs with Teapo as well, and many are almost as old as yours.

the ul file number is E144195 Level3 it came back as Sirtec...aka Solytech

Sirtec and Solytech are two different PSU companies. Solytech makes Deer, L&C, and Allied. Sirtec is usually bought and re-branded by other companies as their own (like ThermalTake, as in your case).

it still won't die at 400 watts im pulling..

That's a power-hungry system you got there? Is this power from the wall or DC power (and if the latter, how are you measuring it?)

I want to recap it if possible as it's my first true psu i bought

It is possible.
Just do NOT use polymers, thats all (or motherboard-grade very low ESR caps).

[coreAngel]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

The voltage selector switch means either passive or no PFC. And I don't see a large toroid on the primary side, so this is definitely not active PFC. Passive? Maybe... but unless there is a large transformer coil that is not in view on any of the pictures, then this is not a passive PFC either. Just regular PFC-less PSU. But no worries - simple PSUs like that tend to last a very long time .


Yes, sometimes, Teapo can last a surprisingly long time. I have some PSUs with Teapo as well, and many are almost as old as yours.


Sirtec and Solytech are two different PSU companies. Solytech makes Deer, L&C, and Allied. Sirtec is usually bought and re-branded by other companies as their own (like ThermalTake, as in your case).


That's a power-hungry system you got there? Is this power from the wall or DC power (and if the latter, how are you measuring it?)


It is possible.
Just do NOT use polymers, thats all (or motherboard-grade very low ESR caps).

i wont use polymers, so general purpose caps should work great..
about 400 watts im using a amd duron motherboard a ATI radeon 9200se AGP, a modem,sound card, 2.5 gb of ddr memory 5 old hard drives and two dvd/cdrom,dvdburner,plus lots of fans (im using a p3 killawatt meter) and its about 380 watts.But i have removed some components to ease off the load since it's too high.

[momaka]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

i wont use polymers, so general purpose caps should work great..

Well, entry level low ESR would be better. Something like:
Panasonic FC, and possibly FK (or FR and FM if you really can't find anything else)
Chemicon LXZ, LXY, LXV, KY, and even KZE
Nichicon PW, PS, PM, HE, and HD (if you have to)
Rubycon... not sure what they have suitable for PSUs, but ZL would probably be okay.

about 400 watts im using a amd duron motherboard a ATI radeon 9200se AGP, a modem,sound card, 2.5 gb of ddr memory 5 old hard drives and two dvd/cdrom,dvdburner,plus lots of fans (im using a p3 killawatt meter) and its about 380 watts.

Ha! AMD Duron and ATI Radeon 9200 SE? That's what my first computer build had too . Good to see you are still rocking that old system . Mine is tucked in the closet, but it works otherwise.

Anyways, something tells me your P3 Kill-a-watt is somehow getting tricked (not sure what/how, though... perhaps you incorrectly mistook the VA consumption for the power draw). The most power-hungry AMD Duron CPU is the 1.4 GHz Morgan core, with a max TDP of about 60 Watts. The Radeon 9200 SE is no more than 10W (if even that much). RAM, modem, and sound card - another 15 W. Biggest load is your HDDs. Let's say each one pulls about 20W (a gross overstatement, as most usually pull half of that)... that's 100 Watts total for them. The optical drives barely pull anything when they are not used, so I will just throw in 5 W for them. So in the absolute worst case, that PC will be drawing 190 Watts DC power max. Assuming your PSU has an ugly 60% efficiency, that's 310 Watts from the wall. But I doubt that is the case, since even most old PSUs will get about 70% (which turns that 190 Watts DC power into 271 Watts from the wall, which is quite far from the 380 W you measured).

[coreAngel]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

Well, entry level low ESR would be better. Something like:
Panasonic FC, and possibly FK (or FR and FM if you really can't find anything else)
Chemicon LXZ, LXY, LXV, KY, and even KZE
Nichicon PW, PS, PM, HE, and HD (if you have to)
Rubycon... not sure what they have suitable for PSUs, but ZL would probably be okay.


Ha! AMD Duron and ATI Radeon 9200 SE? That's what my first computer build had too . Good to see you are still rocking that old system . Mine is tucked in the closet, but it works otherwise.

Anyways, something tells me your P3 Kill-a-watt is somehow getting tricked (not sure what/how, though... perhaps you incorrectly mistook the VA consumption for the power draw). The most power-hungry AMD Duron CPU is the 1.4 GHz Morgan core, with a max TDP of about 60 Watts. The Radeon 9200 SE is no more than 10W (if even that much). RAM, modem, and sound card - another 15 W. Biggest load is your HDDs. Let's say each one pulls about 20W (a gross overstatement, as most usually pull half of that)... that's 100 Watts total for them. The optical drives barely pull anything when they are not used, so I will just throw in 5 W for them. So in the absolute worst case, that PC will be drawing 190 Watts DC power max. Assuming your PSU has an ugly 60% efficiency, that's 310 Watts from the wall. But I doubt that is the case, since even most old PSUs will get about 70% (which turns that 190 Watts DC power into 271 Watts from the wall, which is quite far from the 380 W you measured).

Hmm maybe i did make a faux pas when measuring the wattage, i will test it again when i get a chance.

[Stefan Payne]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

Chemicon LXZ, LXY, LXV, KY, and even KZE

Newer LXZ seems to be ultra low Impedance ones.
The 2200uF/16V Type has an ESR of 0.03 Ohms (+20°C) or 0.06 Ohms (-10°C), Ripple Current is 1950mA (and this one only exist in a 12,5x25mm type)...

Maybe the KMF or KMY Series could be also an option?

[Stefan Payne]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

Chemicon LXZ, LXY, LXV, KY, and even KZE

Newer LXZ seems to be very low Impedance ones.
The 2200uF/16V Type has an ESR of 0.03 Ohms (+20°C) or 0.06 Ohms (-10°C), Ripple Current is 1950mA (and this one only exist in a 12,5x25mm type)...

Maybe the KMF Series could be also an option?

[coreAngel]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

Well, entry level low ESR would be better. Something like:
Panasonic FC, and possibly FK (or FR and FM if you really can't find anything else)
Chemicon LXZ, LXY, LXV, KY, and even KZE
Nichicon PW, PS, PM, HE, and HD (if you have to)
Rubycon... not sure what they have suitable for PSUs, but ZL would probably be okay.


Ha! AMD Duron and ATI Radeon 9200 SE? That's what my first computer build had too . Good to see you are still rocking that old system . Mine is tucked in the closet, but it works otherwise.

Anyways, something tells me your P3 Kill-a-watt is somehow getting tricked (not sure what/how, though... perhaps you incorrectly mistook the VA consumption for the power draw). The most power-hungry AMD Duron CPU is the 1.4 GHz Morgan core, with a max TDP of about 60 Watts. The Radeon 9200 SE is no more than 10W (if even that much). RAM, modem, and sound card - another 15 W. Biggest load is your HDDs. Let's say each one pulls about 20W (a gross overstatement, as most usually pull half of that)... that's 100 Watts total for them. The optical drives barely pull anything when they are not used, so I will just throw in 5 W for them. So in the absolute worst case, that PC will be drawing 190 Watts DC power max. Assuming your PSU has an ugly 60% efficiency, that's 310 Watts from the wall. But I doubt that is the case, since even most old PSUs will get about 70% (which turns that 190 Watts DC power into 271 Watts from the wall, which is quite far from the 380 W you measured).

Well, entry level low ESR would be better. Something like:
Panasonic FC, and possibly FK (or FR and FM if you really can't find anything else)
Chemicon LXZ, LXY, LXV, KY, and even KZE
Nichicon PW, PS, PM, HE, and HD (if you have to)
Rubycon... not sure what they have suitable for PSUs, but ZL would probably be okay.


Ha! AMD Duron and ATI Radeon 9200 SE? That's what my first computer build had too . Good to see you are still rocking that old system . Mine is tucked in the closet, but it works otherwise.

Anyways, something tells me your P3 Kill-a-watt is somehow getting tricked (not sure what/how, though... perhaps you incorrectly mistook the VA consumption for the power draw). The most power-hungry AMD Duron CPU is the 1.4 GHz Morgan core, with a max TDP of about 60 Watts. The Radeon 9200 SE is no more than 10W (if even that much). RAM, modem, and sound card - another 15 W. Biggest load is your HDDs. Let's say each one pulls about 20W (a gross overstatement, as most usually pull half of that)... that's 100 Watts total for them. The optical drives barely pull anything when they are not used, so I will just throw in 5 W for them. So in the absolute worst case, that PC will be drawing 190 Watts DC power max. Assuming your PSU has an ugly 60% efficiency, that's 310 Watts from the wall. But I doubt that is the case, since even most old PSUs will get about 70% (which turns that 190 Watts DC power into 271 Watts from the wall, which is quite far from the 380 W you measured).

My AMD Duron even though it says 1800+ on the CPU its about 1.2Ghz , the main reason it is permanently soldered on the PC-chips ( but it can be desoldered sort of , it's not BGA), i do have it overclocked to 1.5ghz but that is not that much at all unfortunately the cooler is permanent as it needs to be screwed in yeah, to be honest it was free long story but people here dont want to hear boring stories..but i do like the processor i just wish it wasn't soldered to a PC-chips board.

The video card has a Vantec ICEBERQ and copper heatsinks on the mem so i am pushing it by about an extra 40% it does run lubuntu a bit slow but fine considering it's age

[momaka]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

Newer LXZ seems to be ultra low Impedance ones.
The 2200uF/16V Type has an ESR of 0.03 Ohms (+20°C) or 0.06 Ohms (-10°C), Ripple Current is 1950mA (and this one only exist in a 12,5x25mm type)...

That's about equivalent to Chemicon KY and exactly equivalent to Nichicon PW, both of which are a good choice for PSUs. I'm not familiar with KMF, but KMY is another good choice.

long story but people here dont want to hear boring stories..

Oh no, we DO actually .
Just please put some punctuation in your future posts. It's hard to read anything like that.

[Behemot]

Re: Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

I recommend Samxons RS 3300/16 D10 I have on stock, they are jsut te best for such old unit.

Your wattmeter measures BS as this has no PFC whatsoever.

BTW thats some far-east version, I cannot even find that in database.