this glue is conductive once it cooks on hot parts.
the result is leakage to the gates of these mosfets.
result..BANG!
the result is leakage to the gates of these mosfets.
result..BANG!
Attached Files
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Re: this is why enermax liberty and noisetakers blow up!
Dammit! Glue can't be easily removed, I suppose: these psus are doomed to death ...
ZandraxHave an happy life. -
Re: this is why enermax liberty and noisetakers blow up!
well..i understand them: without those small chokes the damn thing just wouldn't work...hehe...Comment
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Re: this is why enermax liberty and noisetakers blow up!
just scrape it off and tack the beads with rtv.
just had a proliant ml370 psu go with a bang due to the same glue.
gotta rebuild it and clean out the other one in the chassis.
hey a $20 dual xeon server is gonna need work!Comment
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Re: this is why enermax liberty and noisetakers blow up!
They probably wanted to glue the ferrite beads to avoid any vibration noise. Good idea, bad practice.Comment
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Re: this is why enermax liberty and noisetakers blow up!
A good design include the bead on the wire soldered to the PCB instead on the transistor's leads. Otherwise silicon RTV on these beads on the component leads.
Nasty to see this tan-colored glue still used to this day. NASTY.
I had a monitor, I pulled components and scraped the areas clean of this. It was in use for awhile so it was more easier to chip off brown/black stuff instead of trying to tear up monitor because that damned tan glue is stronger than krazy glue!?
Cheers, WizardComment
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Re: this is why enermax liberty and noisetakers blow up!
@ kc8adu
If for any reason you decide not to repair the Enermax, I'm looking for a PS223 monitor IC for my Enermax.E8400 8G Kingston PC6400 RAM
GA-EP35-DS3R mobo
HD4850 512M GA, 2x 1T WD SATA drives
CoolerMaster case/Seasonic 850w PSUComment
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Re: this is why enermax liberty and noisetakers blow up!
Good to know that that the problem has been found. Now I know why mine blew up.
Thanks.
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Re: this is why enermax liberty and noisetakers blow up!
Damn I got two Galaxy's, I'm wondering if I should examine them? I'd hate to have this happen to me. They are good with warranty work, they have done the same PSU for me about four times.X99 5930K
X99-gaming 9
EVGA 1080 Vanilla
Gskill 16GBRip JAWS@2400
SSD'S
Corsair AX1200Comment
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Re: this is why enermax liberty and noisetakers blow up!
These are older enermax's, new ones do not suffer from the same conductive glue.
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Re: this is why enermax liberty and noisetakers blow up!
I don't like that glue at all. It takes a lot of effort to remove completely.My first choice in quality Japanese electrolytics is Nippon Chemi-Con, which has been in business since 1931... the quality of electronics is dependent on the quality of the electrolytics.Comment
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Re: this is why enermax liberty and noisetakers blow up!
Hi all, just ran into a 620 watt Liberty that tests ok with a power supply tester, but fails to boot the PC. Debating if it's worth trying to fix before the sparks fly or just scrap it. A new Corsair CX600 is only $40 after rebate, any thoughts if cleaning off the glue and recapping would make it trustworthy again?Comment
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Re: this is why enermax liberty and noisetakers blow up!
The tester puts a hard short on the PSU pin /PS_ON (14 or 16 depending on 20 or 24 pin connector) to ground which pulls the +5V down low enough to cause the power on. If you measure this pin during the power up you will likely see that the voltage does not drop far enough - needs to go below 0.8V to power up. I'm guessing but I suspect that there is a resistor in the PSU that is between the /PS_ON pin and the actual input to the switching device, and that it is out or spec (high resistance) causing the sense voltage to be too high... but that's just a theory in the absence of a circuit diagram
THIS LINK may be worth a read..
I have seen this with certain MoBo before and in fact my Enermax and MoBo combo intermittently suffer this.... I have just replaced the PSU with a new Seasonic 850W
E8400 8G Kingston PC6400 RAM
GA-EP35-DS3R mobo
HD4850 512M GA, 2x 1T WD SATA drives
CoolerMaster case/Seasonic 850w PSUComment
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Re: this is why enermax liberty and noisetakers blow up!
I have yet another of the units with clicking primary. I've replaced the film cap, the MOV, the input cap and the PFC choke from similar scrapped Enermax unit, still does it. And I am not sure if this is quite normal, but there is 136 volts on the primary heatsink against earth ground.
There is almost no glue at all in this unit and most of it is on secondary. Nothing really on primary silicon. Maybe some of the primary silicon is bad, or insulation tab between them and the heatsink?Last edited by Behemot; 04-03-2015, 04:18 PM.Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry!
Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts 
Exclusive caps, meters and more!Hardware Insights - power supply reviews and more!Comment
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Re: this is why enermax liberty and noisetakers blow up!
Been also thinking whether it may be some leaking ceramic cap or something. The ground behind rdectifier may be somewhat flotaing over the earth ground because of that and have higher potential. Bu I guess I will have to start with removing the heatsink and cheking all the silicon and insulation tabs/O rings…?Last edited by Behemot; 04-03-2015, 06:32 PM.Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry! Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts
Exclusive caps, meters and more!Hardware Insights - power supply reviews and more!Comment
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Remember this pile of junk electronics I got last year? Well, that's where this Enermax Liberty ECO 400 Watt PSU came from. Like I mentioned, it had cut cables and many bulged caps on the DC output side. I stripped a few cables and did a quick temporary recap with whatever junk (but still reading OK) caps I could find, then performed a basic power test – the PSU passed.
Thus, I knew I'd eventually go around to repairing it. One year later and we're here. 
First shown is the label below, so anyone reading can see what PSU we're dealing with here.
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This is a guide that I am writing for helping others to replace their MEC1503 EC chip if it breaks (or to get around an inconvenient prompt to the BIOS). This forum has been extremely helpful to me so I would like to contribute to help others. I will tell you right now that this task is very difficult to do. You MUST have experience and tools to do precision micro-soldering, BGA reballing, trace repair, and general laptop repair skills.
There are some specialty tools needed to do this task. The replacement MEC1503 chips can be acquired from Aliexpress. Do not buy the bare chips as... -
I know many folks on this forum warn against conductive glue and suggest removing it immediately upon site. I'm here to vouch and say these people know what they are talking about. To be more accurate, the glue isn't intended to be and doesn't actually start out conductive. It gets conductive as it is heated by components that get hot. The glue starts out to be a light tan color but as it is exposed to heat, it gets darker and darker until it is a dark brown. I have found that it becomes conductive at the point that it reaches a light brown color on darker.
Here is an experience I... -
I bought a dead motherboard, and connected it to this PSU,
Was checking the standby voltages on the motherboard, and, whilst doing so, the PSU made a loud bang with a flash of light.
So now i truly got a bang for my bucks, and something else to try and fix.
The fuse was blowen, and the top was blowen off of a TNY276PN chip
The glass fuse didn't have any marking to say if it was fast or slow blow
So i checked the marking on the PCB thinking that that would tell me,
but it 's got a T/F8A printed on the board
So should i get a fast blow fuse, or should... -
I had a switching transistor and PWM IC blow up as part of a repair, where a big chunk of each went missing. Now I would like to understand the likely turn of events, and maybe determine if I did something stupid. If nothing else, I should at least extract some lessons from it.
"IC10" can be found on page 169 in the service manual:
https://www.manualslib.com/download/...n-Mas-101.html
The entirety of the repair is basically:
1. Device doesn't power on (IC10 supply voltage unstable)
2. Replaced C18 and C66
3. Device works...
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