It may appear like it was "working excellent", but the truth is, such low quality PSUs *never* do. The problem is that you don't see anything wrong on the surface. But the lifetime of the HDD and other system components is greatly reduced, which is why you got those "ATAPI errors". And the more you use these PSUs, the more "errors" and "bugs" will appear. You will get to a point where you will be pulling your hair all the time, because of all of the problems these PSUs will cause eventually.
No need to be sorry here.

If you really have no other option but to fix these power supplies, we will help you, because any kind of fix or "upgrade" on these PSUs would be better than using them the way they are right now.
However, let me just warn you that the parts for these PSUs may cost almost as much as buying a used PSU.
At a minimum, you will need:
* four (4) 6.3V or 10V, 2200 uF capacitors
* two (2) 16V or 25V, 1500 uF capacitors
* two (1) 6.3V or 10V, 1000 uF capacitor
* one (1) 16V or 25V, 470 uF capacitor
* one (1) 20 Amp, 60-100V schottky rectifier (TO-220 or TO-247, 3-pin with common-cathode)
* two (2) 50V, 1-10 uF capacitors (will tell you specifically when I see more pictures of the PSU)
* one (1) 50V, 1-47 uF capacitor (will tell you specifically when I see more pictures of the PSU)
^ These are all of the parts for one (1) power supply. Also, if you want your repair to last, you should use only quality Japanese capacitors. That means avoiding eBay (especially sellers from China). And even then, the fixed power supply still won't be decent by a long shot. But those parts may be just enough to keep the PC alive and not crash.
Also, I would suggest adding more pictures here so we can see exactly what we are working with (preferably, one picture of each side of the PSU). And if you can, give us the part numbers you see on the parts mounted on the heatsinks (radiators). I actually have an idea of what they will be, but would just like for you to confirm. (Probably 13007 NPN BJTs for the main PS with 10-15 Amp schottkies for the 3.3V and 5V rails, and 10 Amp or *maybe* 12 Amp FR rectifier for the 12V rail. 5VSB probably standard 2-transistor motherboard killer design.)
Ouch!
Do they ALL use this same exact PSU?!
If that's the case, I think you might be better off finding a few used but *good quality* power supplies for cheap and fixing only a few of those machines than spending all of the money on parts to fix these cheaper power supplies. But I will wait for your response.
Originally posted by kaboom

Whenever dealing with low-quality PSUs, I always try to refer to the output power as being RAW, precisely because of all of the ripple and noise.
Originally posted by kaboom
I actually had a super-gutless wonder PSU that helped me save at least two other PSUs (one of them was a good quality HiPro, the other a 105W, 12V halogen light converter), a CRT monitor, and a few other things I can't remember without digging a bit in my "repair" gallery. Also was a good source of parts for my college projects. And best of all, it was an excellent lesson to further improve my desoldering skills (this was back when I joined BCN).
So yes, I have respect even for the worst PSUs.

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