Re: Upgrade a 300watt noname power supply
Hello,
I am very busy with school and other computer things at the moment so i will work on it in the weekend but not on school days. So it can take a little longer before i will respond to your post.
Upgrade a 300watt noname power supply
Collapse
X
-
Re: Upgrade a 300watt noname power supply
^
The part numbers on the transformers don't looks like L&C, neither do the heat sinks, and L&C have never used Fuhjyyu caps (whereas CWT love them).
The PSU in post #20 is an L&C, though
EDIT: Maybe I should add that the OP's PSU looks like it is from their ISO division, and so it lacks some of the usual CWT features, like green tape and CWT markings on the transformers.Leave a comment:
-
-
Re: Upgrade a 300watt noname power supply
On your PSU, the BYQ28E is for the 12V, the STPS2045CT is for the 5V rail, and the STPS1545CT is for the 3.3V.
EDIT, you could use those other heat sinks, but maybe bend the fins outwards, that way, you will get some airflow between themLeave a comment:
-
Re: Upgrade a 300watt noname power supply
Often the +3.3V rectifier is aligned with the orange wires, the +5V with the reds, the +12V with the yellows.
To be sure test for continuity between the center leg of each rectifer and the orange/red/yellow wires.Last edited by TELVM; 12-16-2012, 08:37 AM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Upgrade a 300watt noname power supply
Those rectifiers are fine. Use the BYV42E on the 12V rail, the MBR4045 on the 5V rail and the SBL4040 on the 3.3V Rail. Sometimes, if you unsolder the 4 diodes, the PCB will be screened for a rectifier as well. Do that and post a shot of what's under there.
Your new heat sink looks nice and chunky, although you may have to drill a couple of extra screw holes for the rectifiers. I'd install it with the overhang over the toroid coils and caps, not over the transformer. The other consideration is that you don't want the primary heat sink to be much smaller than the secondary one if the fans will have a speed controller, because the secondary heat sink (which controls the fans) could stay cool, while the primary heat sink is red hot, and the fans won't speed up.
I don't know which rectifier is what so i don't know which is the the 3,3, 5 and 12v rectifier. Can you tell me which rectifier is what? The big heatsink is made of too thick material so it wil short some components on the pcb.. But from another psu i have these heatsinks:
Are these big enough?
Also, this psu has no fan control so it is making terrible noise when it's on. After replacing the rectifiers i am going to test the unit and a.fter the testing i am going to unsolder the diodes.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Upgrade a 300watt noname power supply
Those rectifiers are fine. Use the BYV42E on the 12V rail, the MBR4045 on the 5V rail and the SBL4040 on the 3.3V Rail. Sometimes, if you unsolder the 4 diodes, the PCB will be screened for a rectifier as well. Do that and post a shot of what's under there.
Your new heat sink looks nice and chunky, although you may have to drill a couple of extra screw holes for the rectifiers. I'd install it with the overhang over the toroid coils and caps, not over the transformer. The other consideration is that you don't want the primary heat sink to be much smaller than the secondary one if the fans will have a speed controller, because the secondary heat sink (which controls the fans) could stay cool, while the primary heat sink is red hot, and the fans won't speed up.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Upgrade a 300watt noname power supply
Here a pictures of the power supply now:
All the parts i use in this power supply come from other (broken) power supply's. So i found this heatsink on a old broken power supply:
The red line on the big heatsink is the line that i am going to follow if i am sawing the heatsink in the right shape (is that good english)
I am going to place a fan at the front of the power supply and at the back of the power supply.
Here a picture of the new (ehhh.. from a old psu) rectifiers:
I can't find anything of the 1st rectifier.
Are these rectifiers good ones? And how can i replace the diodes with a rectifier? I also hear that i have to replace almost whole the power supply so this is going to be a job for the whole weekLeave a comment:
-
Re: Upgrade a 300watt noname power supply
OP's PSU looks almost exactly like an Antec PSU I recapped in the past; either a PP-303X or an SL-350. Can't remember which one, but it looks SO familiar.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Upgrade a 300watt noname power supply
That's how I'd do it on this PSU. With the shape of the heat sinks, they will work better with front to back airflow, not 90 degree top to back.
EDIT: I went on a similar venture to this with a Rexpower PL-400 power supply. You mey find that thread interesting - https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11247Last edited by c_hegge; 12-15-2012, 08:07 PM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Upgrade a 300watt noname power supply
... i can also add a second fan that blows right on the heatsinks like here:
http://laptopshopcyprus.com/41-247-l...aptop-shop.jpg
Straighter flow and less turbulence = better cooling.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Upgrade a 300watt noname power supply
Hello, here i am again
Thanks for the tips P4! I am going to replacing the secondary rectifiers tomorrow. You say that i need a bigger heatsink on the secondary, i can do this but i can also add a second fan that blows right on the heatsinks like here:
http://laptopshopcyprus.com/41-247-l...aptop-shop.jpg
Another question: I am going to replace the 3,3/5v rectifiers for bigger one's that are skottky. But at the 12v there are only holes in the pcb for a small rectifier.So i am going to replace the 12v rectifier to another stronger rectifier that is also a small one but that one is not skottky. Tomorrow i will post pictures and specs of the new rectifiers.
Leave a comment:
-
-
Re: Upgrade a 300watt noname power supply
Hello, here i am again
Thanks for the tips P4! I am going to replacing the secondary rectifiers tomorrow. You say that i need a bigger heatsink on the secondary, i can do this but i can also add a second fan that blows right on the heatsinks like here:
http://laptopshopcyprus.com/41-247-l...aptop-shop.jpg
Another question: I am going to replace the 3,3/5v rectifiers for bigger one's that are skottky. But at the 12v there are only holes in the pcb for a small rectifier.So i am going to replace the 12v rectifier to another stronger rectifier that is also a small one but that one is not skottky. Tomorrow i will post pictures and specs of the new rectifiers.
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Upgrade a 300watt noname power supply
If you're going to upgrade to 30A rectifiers then you need a better heatsink for the secondary. You don't HAVE to use japanese caps on the input but it doesn't hurt, and I'd use 680uF caps instead of 470. I would add a bridge 6A rectifier to replace the diodes. They look decent but their ratings go down a lot when they get hot. I'm guessing that thing has probably 1 or 2 caps for 12V filtering so definitely increase the capacitance on those caps, at least 2200uF, preferably 3300uF. Replace those orange ceramic discs on the primary with matching Y caps, and if you're up to it solder an X cap to the AC receptacle. The transformer looks good enough...Also, I would replace the fan with a high quality ball bearing fan
Edit: didn't realize hegge mentioned some of the same thingsLast edited by Pentium4; 12-15-2012, 04:41 PM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Upgrade a 300watt noname power supply
13007s. I can never pull more than about 250W from them without blowing them up. I'd replace them with 13009s, D209Ls, or 2SC3307sLeave a comment:
-
Re: Upgrade a 300watt noname power supply
Had like two dozen of these CWT psus at work and even after six years (24/7) they sort of worked. Standby gets a little cooked and sometimes the primary capacitors (Koshin) start to bulge.
If you can do as others suggested and put an even bigger transformer, (like ERL35) 13009 primary transistors and 680uF capacitors plus recap and upgrade the secondary I think this psu would be a good emergency spare. I hope this helps.
Also here is one of the lowest-of-the-low versions of this psu claming 300W but exploding at 200W.Leave a comment:
-
-
Related Topics
Collapse
-
Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?by Tynan DillI was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.
Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.
I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.
The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.
With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.
Assuming...7 Photos -
by JimBanvilleThe sub developed a constant popping every couple seconds from woofer and power LED flickering with nothing but wall AC connected. Connecting an audio cable didn't change anything. It doesn't play but a second or two of audio in between the pops.
Opened it up and discovered the power supply is making a faint clicking or ticking sound.
I measured the amp's output to the woofer and it pulses up to 50mv DC to be driver. The pulses coincide with the power supply ticking/clicking.
I measured the power supply output going to the amp board and it too has this pulsing. Voltage cycles...-
Channel: Troubleshooting Audio Equipment
-
-
by Gust zhangI have a 15 - inch Retina MacBook Pro from the mid - 2014 model. Here is the link: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...light=820-3662 . The battery broke some time ago. After I removed the battery and plugged in the original power adapter, the MBP could boot up normally. However, when I checked with IntelPowerGadget, I found that the CPU speed was limited to 0.8 GHz, and it ran very slowly. Later, I found a solution on GitHub. There is an open - source project called cputune that can set the CPU running speed. So I can now run the MBP at full speed. But another problem...
-
by Andreas_deHello!
i got a damaged Manson NTP-5561 (60V, 1,6A DC output) and and the main issue is that the controler IC for the LCD display has a short. The controler IC PIC18F87K90 is mounted on the back of the back of the LCD. Vss-Vdd = 3 Ohm. The 5V and 3,3V power line was killed as well, but that is not a problem. A new LDO 3,3V and 5V 7805 is already ordered.
Replacing the PIC18F87K90 is necessary but that makes no sense without having the HEX dump of the new controler.
Does anybody have such a power supply and could do a HEX dump of the Flash and EEPROM memory?
...2 Photos04-12-2025, 10:38 AM -
by shamsudeenHi all, I just need to know that, can i use SMPS type power supply to test and short circuit detection on a laptop motherboard?
I saw 95% of repair guys are using only Linear bench power supply. linear bench power supply is pricy, thats why i planned to get one SMPS supply.
i know that in linear power supply the noise will be very low comparing to SMPS supply.... - Loading...
- No more items.
Leave a comment: