Re: Antec 350 Recap Epic Fail
Those Nichicons look fake.
Those Nichicons look fake.
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A working TV? How boring!Originally posted by PeteS in CA -
Re: Antec 350 Recap Epic Fail
Having polychromatic image would definitelly help judging. In this can size, ultra-low ESR caps are on most motherboards.
Can you share color images with series marks and vent of those Nichicon caps?Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry!
Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts 
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Re: Antec 350 Recap Epic Fail
They might be.
It appears that the color/ink of the label is silver, although I have a hunch that that is b/c the camera's flash was used.
The curled wrapper at the top (the vent end) looks strange.
Replacing with a smaller cap might be fine. Two reasons it might not be fine: 1 - smaller cap has higher esr. 2 - less surface area to dissipate heat. I think that it would be VERY rare for this to be a problem, so I say go ahead and do it
Muh-soggy-kneeComment
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Re: Antec 350 Recap Epic Fail
Hi,
Series: VZ(M), 105C, H0812, 8mm DIA x 12mm H.
Will post a color photo soon when I can.Comment
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Re: Antec 350 Recap Epic Fail
Here is the capacitors in color this time. The black and white photo may have not shown their true colors.
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Re: Antec 350 Recap Epic Fail
Font and text seems genuine on the Nichicon, what shape does its vent (the top part) has?Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry! Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts
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Re: Antec 350 Recap Epic Fail
Actually, the font on that "Nichicon" cap looks like it's in Arial, specifically the numeral 1 in "H 0812". Most Nichicon caps I've seen use Univers, which is slightly more square/narrow than Arial. Also, the "VZ( M)", why the odd-looking space?Comment
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Re: Antec 350 Recap Epic Fail
The vent looks very much like any other vent I see on most capacitors I have seen.
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QUOTE: Actually, the font on that "Nichicon" cap looks like it's in Arial, specifically the numeral 1 in "H 0812". Most Nichicon caps I've seen use Univers, which is slightly more square/narrow than Arial. Also, the "VZ( M)", why the odd-looking space?
Looking closely at the two number 1's they appear to be the same. The photo may be deceiving the eye for the angle it is shot at.
Something interesting now that Fake has come into the topic, the outer of the capacitor has a twist in it and only on both side of it. It runs from the bottom of the 1 in the 105 up through the 0 and 5 and the o nd 0. Also on the top the cover is raised for about 2mm over the vent on the edge. Pointing to a low quality product.
I think these are new and dont think they have been removed from another product, the wires are clean with a few tiny patches or corrosion or rust, dark grey spots which I have seen on cap wire bought as second hand capacitors.
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Re: Antec 350 Recap Epic Fail
You mean a "cross"-shape???
If so, that's the correct vent for Nichicon.
EDIT: That doesn't really matter, because VZ series is not low ESR.Comment
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Re: Antec 350 Recap Epic Fail
Yeah, VZ is general purpose.Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry! Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts
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Hi all!
HISENSE 65E7KQ PRO
RSAG7.820.13512 - chassis
MT9618BAATAB - cpu
RSAG7.820.12059 - power
HD650Y3U77 - panel
KLM8G1GETF - emmc
The TV does not turn on, the standby indicator is on. All voltages are present.
Emms is dead. Not readable, not detected.
Replaced emmc.
But with another dump there is no launch
Terminal log
UART
<
AC_ON
RPMB key is not yet programmed
HASH1_VERSION=0x00000000 64bit
E-B
FDE enabled
layout pattern onebin by SAR7,0... -
I have peltir element glued to heatsink with something thick and sticky like putty... it cant be separate with force or heat without risk of breaking ceramic or damaged semiconductor layers due to force (eg if try twisted, pulled, lifted)... method that I am using is a single thread for needle (thin and firm thread of pure polyester that cant break with bare hands without glowes), and using it like a saw between heatsink and peltir. I holding a heatsink with knee against table. It slowly cut throug putty and release glued parts. It is slow proces, but preserve undamaged component and heatsink....
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Hello everyone,
I'm looking to upgrade the heatsink on the main processor of my TV's motherboard for better cooling performance.
The current heatsink is a square-shaped one (2.8cm x 2.8cn) with a basic design, and I believe a more efficient heatsink could help with thermal management and potentially extend the life of the TV.
I'd appreciate any advice on the best type of heatsink to use, specific product recommendations, and tips for installation.
If you've done a similar upgrade, I'd love to hear about your experience and any challenges you... -
My turn to post a build I guess, wasted way too much time on this one…
First proper SLI board I get so wanted to play around a little bit since I got a couple 8800 GTS.
Everything done with random parts I had lying around.
Specs :- CPU: Core 2 Quad Q9450
- RAM: 2x2GB KHX6400D2K2
- GPUs: 2x Nvidia GeForce 8800 GTS G80 320MB
- MB: P5N-E SLI
- PSU: Antec Basiq Power 550 Plus
- HDD: Hitachi Ultrastar A7K2000 1TB
- ODDs: DVD ROM, DVD RW
- Case: not sure
Cooling:- 92mm rear fan
- 120mm front fan
- Additional heatsink on southbridge
- Additional heatsink
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I have RX26PG2 graphic card with incomplete original heatsink, only aluminium plate... but in original solution it look like such bad termal design that I asking if is proper fanless heatsink be adequate replacement ot better... what you think? Till powering on, it is propper hot......
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