my board is X540up rev 2.0
its label is 2h=3K C2P
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my board is X540up rev 2.0
its label is 2h=3K C2P -
Re: identy this ic chip please..
RT2853BHGQW
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Re: identy this ic chip please..
You can buy on DigiKeyComment
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Re: identy this ic chip please..
mcplslg123 may I ask how you converted that chip as I am also trying to fix a board where all chips are coded like that with no schematics availableComment
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Re: identy this ic chip please..
Thank you very much. Huge help for me.Comment
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Re: identy this ic chip please..
Have a look in here
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?p=890107Comment
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Re: identy this ic chip please..
But what is the issue, the component isn't a RT2853BHGQW ?
To identify other ic this link is a great help.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=33846Comment
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Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?I was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.
Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.
I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.
The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.
With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.
Assuming... -
Hi, this is my personal laptop, which the original board (lets call it Board A) blew up PU8700 (TPS51486), making a hole on the board, i had left the laptop at my desk one day with the battery fully charged and didn't touch it for a week, but when i tried to turn it on it didn't
Thought the battery was dead, so i plugged in the charger then tried to power on, the power LED blinked once, charged LED still orange, unplugged the charger, plugged in again and I noticed the "magic smoke" smell, so i unplugged the charger, removed the back cover and saw the blown IC (the "magic... -
I am new to hot air soldering. I need to remove one chip from the board. I have a hot air solder and I set the temperature to 350°C. I slowly started heating the chip, but the solder didn't melt. I heated it for about 5 minutes, but the solder still wouldn't melt. I increased the temperature to 450˚C and still nothing. After a while, the board started to change color, but the solder still didn't melt.
Fortunately, I'm testing it on old network switches to see how it works.
What am I doing wrong?
I've seen a lot of videos on youtube and everyone got the solder melted and the... -
All left and right refers to looking from rear of TV (or looking from front with TV upside down)- TV came with vertical bars and no image. Found faulty TVS on left buffer board. Also replaced T-Con (may have damaged the original while hot air removing components, board has slight warp) and have full image but few horizontal lines on the screen. Some of the lines appears to be 2 pixel tall while others are 1 pixel tall.
- Disconnecting left and right buffer board potentially reveals problems on both sides with different signals (unless this T-Con require jumper like Samsung FB_TRDY1&3) Fault
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As the title states, got one CD3215 chip being a complete butthole to me. All readings on the other 3 chips read as follows
5.16V .47amp
5.16V .47amp
5.16V .47amp
5.16V .04amp (this guy is the issue) (U3200)
So I went ahead and replaced the chip, (actually 3 times with 3 new CD3215 chips) all same issue, at first it wasn't reading at all then it finally started reading. I can rest assured is it not the CD3215 chip now but something else is causing this port to not fully read (god I wish the board would just turn on so we can just recover the data)
...
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