I Would Like To Fix This HP Laptop, Model:15-dy5058cl

[TurcoLoco]

Hello all,
My first post on this forum. Looking at the "Beginner's Guide", I am in the second group even though I'd like to fix this laptop so I can donate it to someone.
I am a computer tech but very new to electronics repair iow, a total noob but in the process of learning, hence posting here. The laptop was donated to me by a client.
It is a couple of years old 15" HP Laptop, Model:15-dy5058cl, Prod ID: 8L5X9UA.

The issue: Charger is detected but doesn't charge the battery.
Laptop won't power on without the battery (not sure if this is by design or related to the issue).

Notes:
Troubleshooting done to confirm the issue is not the battery or the charger.
After seeing it on a site, I tried discharging the battery by holding the ON button for 30 seconds, 5-6 times...no go.
Tried a brand new battery, still not charging and instead continues to discharge the battery.

I have checked the circuit with a multimeter to confirm 19V power gets all the way down to the battery connector on the motherboard.
Definitely nothing looks shorted or damaged visually using a 10x magnifier. No one worked on it previously.
Using Uni-T thermal camera, no hot spots that stood out either.

I am guessing one of the chips in the charging circuit gone bad but I don't have a schematic and even if I did, not sure what to check.
I located the BQ chip which I believe referred to as charging IC, would that be the likely culprit or could a MOSFET in the charging circuit or even the SIO?
If someone has a schematic for this laptop and/or any tips on where to go, I'd very much appreciate it!

TIA

[TurcoLoco]

PS. I did find a schematic shared by oddbondboris on this thread. Not sure if it is the exact same board but seemed quite similar.
I'd really like it if someone tell me which components to check using a mm and I will share the values here to hopefully nail the culprit.
Thanks.

[m1ch43lzm]

It may be a faulty MOSFET, as you're not supposed to have 19V at the battery connector with charger plugged in, it may have triggered the protection circuit inside the battery

The schematics available may not be for the exact same board you have (12th gen Intel CPU), i think this one is not available right now; the one you linked is for the 10th gen Intel version, but those will do for the charging circuit as it looks similar enough
Post the full board number for reference, it starts with DA0P5********, somewhere on the silkscreen on the board

Suggest to check PQ1003, PQ1002, PQ1001; and PQ1011, PQ1012, also post the markings on those MOSFETs

With all power disconnected (no charger, no battery) Measure resistance from S-D, S-G, D-G on those MOSFETs and post the values here

[TurcoLoco]

Thank you for the detailed info!
OK, I will check the resistance and provide the info asap.

Board number I could see is: DA0P5NMB8E0 Rev. E

Cheers!

[TurcoLoco]

Here is the info:
PQ1001 markings: ME 7362-G / GD2G-2
S-G = 2.4 M OHM
D-S = 1.1 M OHM
D-G = 0L M OHM <-- what does 0L mean, short/open?

PQ1002 markings: B20 / N03 / EPF4260
S-G= 0L M OHM
D-S = 3 M OHM
D-G = 5 M OHM

PQ1003 markings: 36380 / NL 3T2B
S-G = 1.1 M OHM
S-D = 0.9 M OHM
D-G = 0.4 M OHM

PQ1011 markings same as PQ1002
S-D = 1.3 M OHM
D-G = 1.3 M OHM
S-G = 200 K OHM

PQ1012 markings same as PQ1002 and PQ1011
S-G = 64 K OHM
S-D = 0.8 M OHM
D-G = 1.1 M OHM

[m1ch43lzm]

0L, OL O.L on resistance mode on your multimeter, means that it's out of the range your multimeter can measure on the given scale (or if it's auto range, it's over the highest range)
It's the same as if the leads are not touching together, you can assume it's "open"

S-G on PQ1012 seems a little low, but I wouldn't say it's faulty yet, as you're measuring the resistance in circuit
None appear to be shorted S-D

Now, with only the charger (no battery), measure the following voltages respect to GND and post them, you need sharp probes for your multimeter
+VA, at the red wires from the charge port connector (it's the charger output voltage)
+VAD, at pins 1-2-3 of PQ1001-PQ1002, it should be the same as +VA, after 1st MOSFET
+VIN, at PR1001, you should get the same voltage, maybe a tiny bit lower (around 0.01V less or so)
BATT+, with no battery connected

Also measure the voltage BATDIS_G at the Gate of PQ1001-1002, you can probe it at pin 3 of PQ1006, it should be around 25-26V

Click the image to enlarge, I marked where you can measure those voltages

Confirm if the LED at the charge port turns white with only the charger connected; if everything works properly laptop should power on with only the charger (no battery), as the charge circuit allows for this, it switches the main power rail +VIN between charger or battery

[TurcoLoco]

Thank you, Michael for taking the time to help me and provide me with such detailed instructions.
I will get to it and post back the results.
Yes, the probe extensions I got made it possible to measure all the components before otherwise I'd be able to.
My multimeter is auto ranging and I typically double check but I can check again if you think those measurements are off.

The motherboard is out of the case so I am not sure if I will be able to see any LEDs but I will check. Before dismantling, when I press the power button, I was seeing a solid white LED for several seconds or so.
Do I need to reassemble the motherboard to be able to acquire the info you requested or would it be OK to just plug the power adapter (no battery) and take the measurements?
Sorry if my questions are stupid but I want to eliminate any potential mistakes due to misunderstandings and assumptions.

Cheers,
Matt


PS. Is it normal that I have to do a image verification each time I post or even when I edit my own posts?

[m1ch43lzm]

Motherboard out of the case, also the charge port, the power button according to the schematics is on a separate board with 2 USB ports, you can remove it from the chassis along with its cable

The charge port on HP laptops has a white/orange LED on it, it turns orange when charging the battery and white when fully charged
But with only the charger plugged in it should turn white


Yes, the captcha is to prevent spam bots, it will go away after some time

[TurcoLoco]

Hi,
Sorry for the delay (under the weather).
I actually had already traced the power button and removed that secondary piece that you mentioned.
The rest, I believe I was able to follow your instructions and get all the readings but if something is missing or wrong, please let me know.

+VA = 19.85V

Both PQ1001 & PQ1002 S/D = 19.85V G = 25.65V +VAD
PQ1006 pin 3 = 25.65V BATDIS_G
PR1001 = 19.85V same as right side of all 5 caps +VIN

With adapter connected, when I press the power button, all I see if 3-4 white LED flashes then it goes off.

Thank you.

[m1ch43lzm]

Ok, power is getting to the board (+VIN), but it's not detecting the charger type, as the LED on the charge port should turn solid white after plugging in the charger

Use an HP charger, 45W-65W, a Dell charger won't work even if they have the same plug (the adapter ID pin works differently on HP and Dell)

Measure voltage at AD_ID respect to GND on the DC jack connector on the board, be very careful not to short the multimeter probe to the other pins


EDIT: Added location of "Adapter type check" circuit, very close to the keyboard connector

[TurcoLoco]

One thing I wanted to ask/add, I have the board out naked, so there is no CPU heatsink or RAM installed.
Would any of these matter for what we are doing?
Thank you again.

[TurcoLoco]

Charger is authentic/original charger and I even tried another known good charger and same thing.
AD_ID (3rd pin) showed 7.23 K Ohm whether the charger is plugged or not.

I am sorry, I didn't understand what I was supposed to do with the last 2 images?

[m1ch43lzm]

The last 2 images are the adapter type detection circuit, forgot to tell to measure the resistors, sorry
7.23K to GND on AD_ID is fine if you check the schematics, you have 100 ohms (R4730) + 7.15K (R4731) = 7.25K, but you should measure voltage (meter in Volts DC) on that pin

Only thing left is:
With no power to the board, measure resistance across R4729, should be 2K
Hopefully HP placed it in the same location as the previous years model, please post a picture of the area near the keyboard connector / IT5570 to confirm if that area matches the DA0P5D*** boardview
Also check R4727 and R4728, those are on the back of the board, according to the table on page 47 of the 0P5D schematics, you should have:
R4727: NC (missing)
R4728: 10K
for 45W adapter

What I meant before for charge port LED, is this

[TurcoLoco]

Thank you for the update/clarification.
I think I have a fairly good understanding of what you asked for so I will get back to you with the request info.

PS. That LED never had any orange light. I am used to seeing that with laptops when they are charging but not this guy.
Only thing it does is, white LED flashes 3-4 times, each time I press the power button. That is it.

[m1ch43lzm]

Before I forget, check the charge port cable
Unplug it from the motherboard, connect the charger to it then measure voltage (meter on volts DC) between the brown wire and one of the black wires
With it unplugged from the motherboard, you should get around 18-19V

If there's no voltage, it may be the faulty part after all; plenty available on amazon and ebay, search for "HP 15-dy dc jack cable", or the part number that's on a green sticker

Plugged in to the board, the voltage in that pin should be less than 3V, as the resistor inside the charger + the resistors on the board form a voltage divider

[TurcoLoco]

Before I forget, check the charge port cable
Unplug it from the motherboard, connect the charger to it then measure voltage (meter on volts DC) between the brown wire and one of the black wires
With it unplugged from the motherboard, you should get around 18-19V

If there's no voltage, it may be the faulty part after all; plenty available on amazon and ebay, search for "HP 15-dy dc jack cable", or the part number that's on a green sticker

Plugged in to the board, the voltage in that pin should be less than 3V, as the resistor inside the charger + the resistors on the board form a voltage divider

Will that tomorrow as well. Thank you again!

[TurcoLoco]

Hi,
I will check the rest of the ones you mentioned in your last 2 posts but I wanted to share the following to see if it was indeed the DC port that was faulty:
AD_ID pin 3 measured 1.44V when the DC port was connected to the motherboard, separated from the board, the brown wire to one of the black ones measured: 2.2V not 18/19V as you mentioned.

As this machined was opened at least once before with cover screws missing, case corners damaged, etc., I could tell this laptop suffered quite a bit.
I also noticed the CPU/Heatsink fan was dangling with some of the wires broken (but I do believe fan was still running).
That plastic port piece seemed fused to the fan connector and despite my best efforts it came apart from the board.
Please see the attached image. can that fan port be replaced with a new one? If yes, any idea what would that be part called exactly?

Thank you again.

[m1ch43lzm]

Hi,
I will check the rest of the ones you mentioned in your last 2 posts but I wanted to share the following to see if it was indeed the DC port that was faulty:
AD_ID pin 3 measured 1.44V when the DC port was connected to the motherboard, separated from the board, the brown wire to one of the black ones measured: 2.2V not 18/19V as you mentioned.

DC jack seems faulty, as I just tested on an HP laptop I have, with 45W AC adapter (different model, but the Adapter Type Check is the exact same circuit), and I get 18.86V on the brown wire (disconnected from the board)
And plugged in to the board, I get 0.288V on AD_ID pin on the motherboard
Make sure you don't touch the probe tips with your fingers, as that influences the readings


Last check, is to measure continuity from the brown wire to the center pin of the DC jack, multimeter should beep, resistance should be close to 0 ohm
If it fails that, replace the DC jack

As this machined was opened at least once before with cover screws missing, case corners damaged, etc., I could tell this laptop suffered quite a bit.
I also noticed the CPU/Heatsink fan was dangling with some of the wires broken (but I do believe fan was still running).
That plastic port piece seemed fused to the fan connector and despite my best efforts it came apart from the board.
Please see the attached image. can that fan port be replaced with a new one? If yes, any idea what would that be part called exactly?

Thank you again.

For the fan connector, i haven't been able to find a US supplier for the connector listed in the schematics, it's out of stock at digikey https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...1-001/26766564

This one looks close
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...710004/2424925

Maybe someone else used glue on the fan connector, as it can easily be disconnected by pulling upwards from the wires

Picture from ifixit guide
Also make sure the remaining pins don't touch each other, careful not to damage the PCB tracks as that would be more difficult to repair

[TurcoLoco]

DC jack seems faulty, as I just tested on an HP laptop I have, with 45W AC adapter (different model, but the Adapter Type Check is the exact same circuit), and I get 18.86V on the brown wire (disconnected from the board)
And plugged in to the board, I get 0.288V on AD_ID pin on the motherboard
Make sure you don't touch the probe tips with your fingers, as that influences the readings


Last check, is to measure continuity from the brown wire to the center pin of the DC jack, multimeter should beep, resistance should be close to 0 ohm
If it fails that, replace the DC jack

Double checked the brown wire and same thing. Then power disconnected, auto-ranging mm beep with less than 1KOhm on the display.
I am thinking about replacing the DC port at this point as I suspected it might have been faulty (the charger doesn't sit as firmly as I thought it would.
If the issue persisted after replacing it, then I could continue with the rest of the checks.

For the fan connector, i haven't been able to find a US supplier for the connector listed in the schematics, it's out of stock at digikey https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...1-001/26766564

This one looks close
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...710004/2424925

Maybe someone else used glue on the fan connector, as it can easily be disconnected by pulling upwards from the wires

Picture from ifixit guide
Also make sure the remaining pins don't touch each other, careful not to damage the PCB tracks as that would be more difficult to repair

Thank you. I didn't even know what the proper name of the part was and searching for molex laptop fan connector brought weird results.
I have taken those fan a handful of times before and using a similar pick tool, it would not come off.
I was trying to hold the base piece down using tweezers but eventually it snapped off.
I believe at least one of the pins is still on the board but I will reexamine.
I also have a few donor laptop board which I will check to see if one from any of those would be compatible.

I will report back once I have an update.
Thank you again for all your help.
~TL

PS. None of the old laptop motherboards have the same top connect molex so I will have to shop for it.
I think the second one you linked looks like it! I doubt anyone would sell just one so I may end up buying a set just in case.

[TurcoLoco]

I ended up ordering 5 of each end (housings/receptacles) 78271 & 78172 just to justify the shipping cost! =)
I examined the board and removed a few flakes of remaining pin particles and everything looks healthy on the board.
If I can solder it without melting it (SMD components with plastic parts/base make me really nervous), I will be stoked!
I will keep you posted when all parts are received and installed.

Cheers and Happy 4th!