Fluke 189 series 1 DC voltage is off

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • tibimakai
    Badcaps Legend
    • Jan 2012
    • 3680
    • USA

    #21
    Thank you very much. Man it is very hard to understand what they are trying to say. I have glanced it over, and what I'm reading is that the Fluke A/D converter chip(669918) could be damaged?
    It will take a while until I will order the parts, because I have a JVC LX-UH1 projector, that I'm repairing and I want to order the parts at the same time.
    I'm also looking for schematic for this pj as well, but most likely JVC did not published anything for the ballast and power supply.

    Comment

    • tibimakai
      Badcaps Legend
      • Jan 2012
      • 3680
      • USA

      #22
      Found this video, that is exactly what the issue is with mine:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ogl1lWgJCqk

      Comment

      • VoicesFYC
        Member
        • Apr 2021
        • 26
        • United States

        #23
        hiya Tib i found the SMD resister for your fluke... and they are pretty cheap https://www.newark.com/nic-component...lm/dp/52AH3180 the SMD resistor is a 2611 . so you can get it there or where ever you order yer parts i tried checing the internet for your projector service manual and as far as i can tell if JVC made a manual..it ain't released for the general repair community yet but i will keep looking hope this helped and if i was you i'd buy spares of the resisters Daniel.

        Comment

        • VoicesFYC
          Member
          • Apr 2021
          • 26
          • United States

          #24
          welp..guess i was late in my reply...LOL Kudo's to Redwire for an Outstanding Picture he posted for that meter and the resistors 2611 & 1001 are the resistors...sorry i didn't get a chance to respond sooner. but those are the correct ones yes 5 STARS to RED for the photo Daniel.

          Comment

          • tibimakai
            Badcaps Legend
            • Jan 2012
            • 3680
            • USA

            #25
            Thank you anyway, I appreciate the help.

            Comment

            • redwire
              Badcaps Legend
              • Dec 2010
              • 3900
              • Canada

              #26
              Pretty sure they both measure to size 1206 [metric 3216], not 2512. What I'll do in pictures is zoom in, measure on my screen with a ruler a known size (like the DF06 bridge rectifier) and then scale that to the unknown part's dimensions.
              I'd also read the Fluke 189 is very sensitive to dirt on the PCB. I hope the multimeter can be fixed with new resistors and some cleanup.

              Comment

              • tibimakai
                Badcaps Legend
                • Jan 2012
                • 3680
                • USA

                #27
                I may install through hole resistors, since the trace is gone.

                Comment

                • tibimakai
                  Badcaps Legend
                  • Jan 2012
                  • 3680
                  • USA

                  #28
                  Just to conclude this thread, replaced the SMD 1K resistor, the through hole 2.61k resistor and the fuse, and the meter is back to normal.
                  Thank you everybody, who helped me figure this out.

                  Comment

                  • redwire
                    Badcaps Legend
                    • Dec 2010
                    • 3900
                    • Canada

                    #29
                    Alright! That's great it's still goin'
                    I'm not sure what damaged the resistors in the first place, but it looks like the 189-I protection circuit kinda let that one slip by. Like I said, over 82V to cook them so it was not the working on the CRV.

                    Comment

                    • VoicesFYC
                      Member
                      • Apr 2021
                      • 26
                      • United States

                      #30
                      OUTSTANDING ! glad to see a restored Fluke

                      Comment

                      • tibimakai
                        Badcaps Legend
                        • Jan 2012
                        • 3680
                        • USA

                        #31
                        I still have an old 179, that a few years ago I've picked up from CR for $40, but it is completely dead, and I couldn't find anything wrong with it. Most likely I have a thread about it somewhere.
                        Do you feel like helping with that? I hate throwing it away.

                        Comment

                        • redwire
                          Badcaps Legend
                          • Dec 2010
                          • 3900
                          • Canada

                          #32
                          I say start a new thread, give it a whirl. Decades old Fluke is still better than the cheapola multimeters IMHO.
                          Auction buy I just got an old 87-IV, gave it an overhaul, totally took it apart and washed, scrubbed it. Mechanic's special with sand in the rotary switch and banana jacks. But parts are hard to find or expensive.
                          It works good and I can trust it more than the Aliexpress specials. I like the fast update speed it seems faster than other 87's I've used.

                          Comment

                          • stj
                            Great Sage 齊天大聖
                            • Dec 2009
                            • 30908
                            • Albion

                            #33
                            create a new thread.
                            we can fix it and then you can sell it before it breaks again and buy a unitrend or brymen meter

                            Comment

                            • redwire
                              Badcaps Legend
                              • Dec 2010
                              • 3900
                              • Canada

                              #34
                              Originally posted by stj
                              [...] and buy a unitrend or brymen meter
                              Buying a Brymen multimeter in North America is very risky. There is no sales/support here at all. Because Brymen OEM's for Fluke, I believe there is a contractual limitation and Fluke has North America exclusivity.
                              They don't have the greatest build quality so that rotary switch, LCD, MCU FLASH corruption, F/W update, cal etc. problem will screw you because sending it out overseas costs a lot of money. Too much actually, it's disposable toss it if you have a problem with it, strictly from a shipping $$ point of view.
                              eevblog and a mod sell them which puts them in a conflict of interest as far as problems and all the fanboy hype promoting them.

                              Uni-T is just too (intentionally) cheap with their protection circuits and even with hobby use, they can get zapped and die.
                              As if putting in $0.15 more MOV's would really prevent the boss from buying his new Lambo

                              So I'd rather repair old Made in USA Fluke etc. instead of buying either of them. It's sad it come down to that.

                              Comment

                              • stj
                                Great Sage 齊天大聖
                                • Dec 2009
                                • 30908
                                • Albion

                                #35
                                dont buy into the bullshit at eevblog about uni-trend meters.
                                the same guy who blew a bunch of uni-tred meters with his HV pulse generator also toasted a fluke87

                                the uni-trend 179 and 189 are NOT cheap meters - not build wise or price wise.

                                btw, those parrots at eevblog talk a lot of shit - they where attacking the UT210e clamp meter for not having a fuse.
                                i asked them where you would put a fuse on a CLAMP meter and they all shut up!

                                Comment

                                • redwire
                                  Badcaps Legend
                                  • Dec 2010
                                  • 3900
                                  • Canada

                                  #36
                                  I can't find the Uni-T model numbers you suggested. 179, 189 I think. Which ones did you mean.

                                  The guy blowing up multimeters for fame and glory, I don't really take him seriously. I got pissed off at his "enhancements" (bigger MOV's/clamp transistors) because he intentionally won't give a part number or any details, and one vid he put them in the wrong spot that was funny. I think there's a bit too much attention whoring.

                                  But... a BBQ lighter should not kill a multimeter! That Uni-T scam with the UT61E. They obtained 61010 approvals with TÜV Rheinland GS, then delete the MOV's and bigger fuses for units sold in North America. So that model (still for sale) easily gets zapped, many posts on the Internet about why the meter died. Hint: the IC is dead, you got ripped off lol.
                                  That is two things - fake safety approvals and cheating customers out of $0.24 worth of MOV's. What a shitty company for doing that. Then it's the many revisions and the "61E+" etc. but their reputation is pond scum.
                                  Uni-T can make some good stuff when they OEM, I have seen that- but overall I'd have trust issues with them. One look at a PC board and you can see the MOV's, PTC's, clamp transistors etc. and know right away if the meter stands a chance.

                                  Comment

                                  • stj
                                    Great Sage 齊天大聖
                                    • Dec 2009
                                    • 30908
                                    • Albion

                                    #37
                                    i got the numbers a little wrong - off by 8
                                    https://meters.uni-trend.com/product/ut171-series/
                                    https://meters.uni-trend.com/product/ut181a/

                                    the problem with fluke is they got taken over by investment devils(bankers) a few years back and stuff started going downhill - including the warranty details.

                                    Comment

                                    • lti
                                      Badcaps Legend
                                      • May 2011
                                      • 2544
                                      • United States

                                      #38
                                      Originally posted by redwire
                                      Buying a Brymen multimeter in North America is very risky. There is no sales/support here at all.
                                      Greenlee was selling some of the Brymen meters over here (with a green sleeve instead of red - I remember seeing them on the shelf at Home Depot), but they were priced a lot higher than an imported Brymen (not worth the money).

                                      Anyway, I think the Fluke 189 is a good meter. I don't know why anyone is implying that Fluke meters are unreliable, especially compared to Uni-T.​

                                      Comment

                                      • stj
                                        Great Sage 齊天大聖
                                        • Dec 2009
                                        • 30908
                                        • Albion

                                        #39
                                        when the input jacks fail and you find them for $40 + shipping or some other shocking price - you will understand.
                                        flukes break more easily than they used to and parts are *very* expensive.
                                        189 is probably the best model they sell btw.

                                        Comment

                                        • redwire
                                          Badcaps Legend
                                          • Dec 2010
                                          • 3900
                                          • Canada

                                          #40
                                          Originally posted by stj
                                          [...] the problem with fluke is they got taken over by investment devils(bankers) a few years back and stuff started going downhill - including the warranty details.
                                          Fluke is just an acquired brand name, I agree. Danaher buying Fluke for $625M in 1998, now Fortive- they are only concerned about maximum profit and outsourcing to Taiwan is one way to do it. I believe final test and cal is done in Seattle to keep the "product of USA" fake label but you know they can't resist getting parts from Asia. There's been many changes to the plastics especially.
                                          Nothing new has rolled out of Fluke, and their product remains a cash cow. Obese 87V Max. alone is USD $645, 87V USD $571 at Mouser. I do pay that at work for critical use (Cat. IV, remote areas etc) where it's mission critical.

                                          Every Taiwan multimeter I have has needed constant repairs and I'm sick of the half-assed quality. The rotary switch is still cave-man technology. Brymen uses very low Ohms compliance voltage, uA of current on mid ranges so it's useless around electrical noise, moisture, corrosion etc. keep'em in the lab... eevblog guy and mod makes money off selling them- so you can't point out the weaknesses or not be a fanboy. Costs involved especially shipping a dud across the ocean for warranty, cal etc. That is not really saving money.

                                          So I'm saying it's better to repair an old Fluke when you work with power systems or need absolute reliability, compared with buying a new multimeter off the junk. I'm not a Fluke fanboy unless my hands/face are in danger or the readings are critical.

                                          Uni-T has played endless games with their safety certificates. I've seen them posted/deleted on their website, changed etc. so no Cat. III or IV use for that shit. Hobbyist use is a different scenario I guess.

                                          Comment

                                          Related Topics

                                          Collapse

                                          • Document Archive
                                            ASUS Pro Series D310MT-0G32500650 Pro Series G3250 Specification for Upgrade or Repair
                                            by Document Archive
                                            This specification for the ASUS Pro Series D310MT-0G32500650 can be useful for upgrading or repairing a desktop PC that is not working. As a community we are working through our specifications to add valuable data like the Pro Series D310MT-0G32500650 boardview and Pro Series D310MT-0G32500650 schematic. Our users have donated over 1 million documents which are being added to the site. This page will be updated soon with additional information. Alternatively you can request additional help from our users directly on the relevant badcaps forum. Please note that we offer no warranties that any specification,...
                                            09-12-2024, 03:28 PM
                                          • cheeky2
                                            Anyone know how to take apart a Fluke T100 Voltage Tester without damaging it?
                                            by cheeky2
                                            See attached picture. I have a Fluke T100 Voltage Tester that the resistance and diode measurement isn't working (it's not the batteries (as I have already checked them and put decent Duracell 1.5V AAA batteries inside it).
                                            I have looked on the web for any information and on youtube without any results for this model.
                                            There are no screws visible or anything obvious. So I am hoping someone here has the solution to take it apart?
                                            The only way I can see is underneath the yellow rubber handle area, however I don't wish to damage it if it isn't the case!...
                                            06-04-2024, 07:21 AM
                                          • electron_jj
                                            Panasonic TH-L42D25A checking the PSU output voltage
                                            by electron_jj
                                            Hi Everyone, I am new to this forum. I have a Panasonic LED TV which doesnt turn on and is blinking 4 times repeatedly when I turn on the switch. The TV does not respond to the remote control so I had to turn on using the physical switch on the side of the TV. When I turn on the switch the 4 x blinking starts and repeat itself until I turn off the TV. There is a black screen. I turned off the light in the room to check the panel and I think there is no backlight as far as I can tell.

                                            I have been inspecting and testing the capacitors and diodes in the power supply board to try to...
                                            08-29-2021, 08:13 AM
                                          • sam_sam_sam
                                            Trip light 2400 watt line conditioner bought used issue with low voltage oscillation going on between relays
                                            by sam_sam_sam
                                            I found two capacitors on the board and one of the leads on one capacitor had bad soldering joint and the other joint connections not much better and there were several soldering joints that way to much flux around the joint redid several of them

                                            The capacitors were a non brand that I did not recognize they got replaced and now it does not oscillating between relay but what concerns me a little bit is when the voltage is a little bit low the output voltage is around 130 volts and then drops down to 115 volts this happens around 105 to 108 volts if remember correctly

                                            Now...
                                            06-09-2024, 10:57 AM
                                          • Document Archive
                                            ISL95831HRTZ ISL95831HRTZ-T ISL95831IRTZ ISL95831IRTZ-T Voltage Regulator Datasheet
                                            by Document Archive
                                            3+1 Voltage Regulator for IMVP-7/VR12 CPUs

                                            Compliant with IMVP-7/VR12, the ISL95831 provides a complete solution for microprocessor and graphic processor
                                            core power supply. It provides two Voltage Regulators (VRs) with three integrated gate drivers. The first VR can be
                                            configured as 3-, 2- or 1-phase VR while the second output is 1- phase VR, providing maximum flexibility. The two VRs share the
                                            serial control bus to communicate with the CPU and achieve lower cost and smaller board area compared with the two chip approach.
                                            Based on Intersil's Robust Ripple Regulator...
                                            11-05-2024, 03:24 PM
                                          • Loading...
                                          • No more items.
                                          Working...